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My recently installed wood plank wall looks like crap now.

Discussion in 'Home Improvement' started by 1lowlife, Nov 27, 2022.

  1. Nov 27, 2022 at 11:22 AM
    #1
    1lowlife

    1lowlife [OP] Toxic prick and pavement princess..

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    In July the wife had me do 2 walls in my office.
    I put slats of Knotty Pine Beaded Planking.
    Put 4 coats of primer and 4 coats of high-quality paint.
    It looked great when I finished it.

    upload_2022-11-27_13-18-1.jpg

    upload_2022-11-27_13-18-20.jpg

    But now it looks like crap.
    The paint is cracking between most of the boards.
    My wife says don't worry about it, but it irritates me to my inner core.
    I wish she would have let me stop after the primer, it had a rustic weathered look and the cracks would have fit in perfectly.

    upload_2022-11-27_13-18-38.jpg

    upload_2022-11-27_13-18-48.jpg

    upload_2022-11-27_13-19-4.jpg

    upload_2022-11-27_13-19-14.jpg

    So repainting isn't going to help.
    I caulked the top (at the ceiling) and along the trim pieces.
    It still looks great.
    Do I need to fill every cracked groove with caulk and then repaint it?
    Actually, the caulk is the same color and sheen as the paint, I may not have to repaint it.
    Or, do just listen to my wife and let it be?


    Any input is appreciated..
    TIA
     
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  2. Nov 27, 2022 at 11:25 AM
    #2
    Tundra234

    Tundra234 New Member

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    I'm wondering if it is from the paint shrinking? I would try repainting a couple of spots and see if it fills in. Or maybe caulking and then repainting?
     
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  3. Nov 27, 2022 at 11:28 AM
    #3
    1lowlife

    1lowlife [OP] Toxic prick and pavement princess..

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    That's a good idea, to do a small area and see what happens..
    I can do it behind the door.
     
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  4. Nov 27, 2022 at 11:47 AM
    #4
    pvmike

    pvmike Home Depot flexing

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    I'd touch that up. That's not too much work.
     
  5. Nov 27, 2022 at 11:53 AM
    #5
    blackoutt

    blackoutt YEAH BUDDY!

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    Seems like you might have painted over and across the crack instead of into the bottom of the crack, if that's even possible. Options I see are caulk or paint over as is (I'd personally try to just repaint first) or cut it out and caulk or repaint making sure to clean well and adhere to the bottom the valley. Prob just keep touching it up as it cracks until you bridge it fully!
     
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  6. Nov 27, 2022 at 11:53 AM
    #6
    NoRcptn

    NoRcptn Better than mediocre poster

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    Unfortunately the best way would be to prepaint each individual plank prior and it’s such a PITA. If you don’t mind caulk to fill in the gaps it might be the way to go. I had a similar experience and kept repainting the gaps. I was chasing that forever and paint got pretty thick in spots. It drove me mad. I would’ve been better off taking up the gap first the painting over.
     
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  7. Nov 27, 2022 at 12:05 PM
    #7
    RLHULK

    RLHULK Too many gamma rays in all that BBQ smoke.

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    Wood shrinks and expands.

    Not much you can about it.
     
  8. Nov 27, 2022 at 12:14 PM
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    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    Oh, the joys of real wood and shrinkage. TWSS, right? :eek:

    I’m going to assume acrylic latex primer and paint? Even if the wood planking was fully dry and kept in stable humidity before you purchased and installed (doubtful, as it’s a long process), the water based primer and paint will cause swelling when it is applied, then as the wood slowly dries over time and shrinks, the gaps open and the cured paint cracks.

    Caulking the gaps with paintable acrylic painters caulk and another coat of paint over top may do it. Caulking alone will turn unsightly in time, it never fully loses it’s tack and will collect dust and even yellow over time.

    I’d probably wait at least another few months to see if the gaps / cracks open up any more, and dry that coat of paint as quickly as possible after application. So good and warm, fans, dehumidifier…
     
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  9. Nov 27, 2022 at 12:24 PM
    #9
    joonbug

    joonbug °°°°°°°°°°

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    Fill the holes with caulk. :laugh:
     
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  10. Nov 27, 2022 at 12:29 PM
    #10
    1lowlife

    1lowlife [OP] Toxic prick and pavement princess..

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    Yes, I had it in the room only for a couple of days.
    So it went from a 100° garage to a 70° inside for about 48 hours.
    I probably should have painted each board individually or, left it with the primer look, which actually looked like a nice weathered wall.

    Your points about just caulking sound about right.
    If I do go to the trouble of caulking it all, I might as well repaint it.

    I probably should give it a few months and let it do whatever.
    I noticed it last month and it's gotten progressively worse.

    I should probably just get over it.
    You can't see it just looking into the room.
    But me sitting in here just about daily it's all I can see.

    Thanks all.
    I appreciate the input..

    My wife doesn't even notice it.
    I see it every time I walk into the room, but I have issues...:rolleyes:
     
  11. Nov 27, 2022 at 12:39 PM
    #11
    blenton

    blenton New Member

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    Shrinkage. The wood shrinks but also pulls in the paint over time. Latex/acrylic house paint is water based and takes weeks or months to cure. Pine is very porous and pulls the primer and paint in to the grain over time.

    Caulk also shrinks but it is your best option. You may need to reapply some in a week but it will work just fine.
     
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  12. Nov 27, 2022 at 1:11 PM
    #12
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    If it continues to shrink, it will probably look better all on it’s own too. The paint cracks may end up being continuous down the whole length of each joint, instead of the current “uneven look”.
     
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  13. Nov 27, 2022 at 1:30 PM
    #13
    B.Ross

    B.Ross New Member

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    as others have stated, sand, caulk and repaint.

    DAP 1hr caulk for cracks and a semi/satin acrylic for top coat.

    My 2¢
     
  14. Nov 27, 2022 at 2:13 PM
    #14
    RLHULK

    RLHULK Too many gamma rays in all that BBQ smoke.

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    Since its a real wood product a gap to allow for expansion and contraction is a must.

    I would leave it, when the humidity rises those wood planks will expand again.
     
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  15. Nov 27, 2022 at 2:15 PM
    #15
    TILLY

    TILLY Gently Used Member

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    What's up bud, how you been? :) I've done lots of wood planking in my house and ran into the same problem on the first room I did. The only thing that I did that finally worked was to not load up the joints with lots of paint, and just do a few light ones to cover the wood. Due to the constant expansion and contraction of the wood, filling the joints completely with paint or caulk will eventually lead to the cracking like you have now. It would be a PITA, but you could remove the excess paint from the joints then touch them up and see if that stops the cracking. Good luck. :thumbsup:

    IMG_1750.jpg IMG_1760.jpg
     
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  16. Nov 28, 2022 at 7:09 AM
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    Geezer

    Geezer New Member

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    It is just like hardwood flooring. The wider the boards you use the greater the noticeable gaps from expansion and contraction caused by changes in humidity.
     
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  17. Nov 28, 2022 at 8:09 AM
    #17
    831Tun

    831Tun heartless Bastrd

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    No, it's from the wood contracting.
    Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity/seasonally. A good, flexible caulk should help a lot but might not completely fix everything. I've had 2 different furniture pieces, both acer saccharum (AKA sugar or hard rock maple), violently explode from contracting too quickly.
     
  18. Nov 28, 2022 at 8:28 AM
    #18
    JCBerb

    JCBerb Semper Fi

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    Experienced this once. I didn't prep the wood, then primed and painted in short order. I also loaded the joints with to much paint.

    I sanded caulked and repainted to correct it. Luckily it was one wall in a small room.

    The next time I let the wood sit in my house for a few weeks, primed, let it sit for a day or two, then painted. I sprayed the paint this go around and no issues a few years after.
     
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  19. Nov 28, 2022 at 8:39 AM
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    dondino

    dondino New Member

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    Where I can , I now use Azek for these types of projects. Cuts and performs like wood, but there is no shrinkage and no bloody knots to bleed through. I did our laundry room with it and I think it turned out great.
     
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  20. Nov 28, 2022 at 9:28 AM
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    SD Surfer

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    Yep, that's just what I told my wife.
     
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  21. Nov 28, 2022 at 9:40 AM
    #21
    Kung

    Kung Dead sexy

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    Giggity.
     
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  22. Dec 13, 2022 at 5:51 PM
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    BeardedTundra

    BeardedTundra Shr3k

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    I vote, leave it. It doesn't look too bad. I'm sure it looks bad in person. Just roll with it.
     
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  23. Dec 14, 2022 at 8:57 AM
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    1lowlife

    1lowlife [OP] Toxic prick and pavement princess..

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    It certainly looks 'rustic'...:D
    Wife said to leave it be, so that's what I'll do..:cool:
     
  24. Dec 14, 2022 at 9:19 AM
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    Kung

    Kung Dead sexy

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    Heh.
     
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  25. Dec 14, 2022 at 9:27 AM
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    mart1nezdaniel

    mart1nezdaniel AZ

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    Came here to say this.
     
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  26. Dec 14, 2022 at 10:47 AM
    #26
    1lowlife

    1lowlife [OP] Toxic prick and pavement princess..

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    What is odd is this:
    I put up something very similar to this stuff in the front foyer years ago.
    Same slats with a beadboard look, although with that, I stained/sealed it.
    It always looked fine.

    About the time I finished my office, the wife decided she wanted the foyer wood painted white.
    A couple of coats of the same primer and paint and it looks fine, no cracks at all.
    I guess from sitting for years with the stain/sealant on it...:confused:


    upload_2022-12-14_12-47-30.jpg upload_2022-12-14_12-47-39.jpg
     
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  27. Dec 14, 2022 at 10:54 AM
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    PlatinumPro

    PlatinumPro New Member

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    and here i thought this was a family friendly page :santa2:
     
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