What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I did get the HDs as I have a shell, decked system and camping stuff I want in there. I went with archive garage u-bolt flips and yellow bump stops. I also have the front lifted 2.5” so I’m hoping this will level me out nicely as I’m squatting a bit right now.

 

They lifted mine probably about 1.5” . I have a 2” level and it’s definitely higher in the rear now

 

@alb1k @FrenchToasty Thanks for the advice. My plan was to attack it with the grinder and air chisel. Crossing my fingers for a smoove install but I can say with almost absolute certainty something will try to ruin my day.

 

@FrenchToasty knows about that. I drilled my rivets because I had all kinds of room. You will be fine - ask if anything comes up.

 

Drop shackles are always an option.

 

They must contract out the packing/shipping to Serra Toyota.

 

If someone needs them I still have the beefy TC 3/4" drop shackles I got from @alb1k, that I haven't gotten around to installing.

 

Hah, I would have bought them if I had known. Maybe once my ass starts dragging I will have a set to sell too.

 

This is the way my exhaust shipped from scamazon a while back. No box and scratched up but it was cheap so it is what it is.

 

Anyone here want a plastic 1/2" leveling spacer? To compensate for the lean.

Free 99 + shipping.

 

@FrenchToasty ?

 

and a nice linear dent on the muffler can too

 

Got everything laid out for the install. Raining today so it isn't going to happen today. Should I hit the areas where the clamps rubbed the paint off with anything before I mount them? I've highlighted the worst of it. I could just grab some flat black paint and hit them with a couple of coats. Otherwise everything looks to be in order.

 

Might as well hit them up with some paint since they are sitting. I don't think you need anything exotic, just some rattle can whatever.

 

Regular rattle can has held up pretty good on my rangers leafs.

 

I wouldn't be surprized if they zinc-dipped or zinc-coated the steel before powdercoat just for anti-corrosive purpose. But yes, if it's actually powdercoated vs. paint, powdercoat is just a non-bonding shell over metal, so any place where water can penetrate, it's basically going into a "sleeve" in reality, and just sitting between the coating and metal, it'll rot it from the inside out. It's the main downside to using powdercoat, it doesn't truly "bond" mechanically to the metal in the same way a self-etching primer or traditional paint would, so any crack/seam/split/perforation is an entry point for water, which will kill your metal.

If it were me, and you'd need to do this carefully, I'd clean up just the very fine edges with acetone or more seriously with MEK (note: health hazards are real w/MEK), then topcoat with something to re-seal it. Rustoleum's "satin" rattle can looks like the OEM finish, and the finish I'm seeing on those.

 

I think I said powder coat, but it may be painted. I am not exactly sure. They are these: https://www.autoandtrucksprings.com...ty-rear-leaf-spring-fits-both-sides-90-287hd/

I don't know if this detail helps:

 

I don't think PC would just rub out like that. The only way to know for sure though, is to contact ATS with the part number and ask them.

I doubt they'd bother with PC, spraying in mass would be faster to production with less time, hassle, and energy, but that's just my hot take. I work in technology/security, so what the hell do I know about assembly-line production?

 

My buddy in kempner gave me a full size electric wall oven. Gonna build a box and turn it into a pc/cerakote hot box.

 

Just off with ATS. They confirmed they use semi-gloss paint on these, as "powder coat causes more problems than it solves". So rattle can it is. I am in technology too, and tend to way over think things like this.

 

Yup. I badmouth the shit all the time on here, but not everyone is in my camp on why powdercoat sucks. I've watched tubing snap in half because it rusted inside out, water got into a seam. Stuff isn't worth it.

Black satin Rustoleum is your friend. This is what I've been using on all steel stuff, bike and vehicle frames garden stuff for years:

​

 

Enjoy your new springs! I installed the 221HD (4WD version) on my 2WD a couple months back. I really enjoy how they ride- firm, yet flexible as needed. It feels like I'm riding in a proper truck now. OEM Toyota springs are too soft for my liking. Really happy with the HDs and would recommend them to anyone.

 

Its what i used. And the copper comes out too orange, and has to be tinted.

 

Personally, after knowing what I know about the Alcan leaf packs, and having to "deal" with them again about 2 years later, I would take them apart, and then add fluid film or anti-sieze between the leafs as rust prevention/friction elimination.

See the below quote from myself...

 

Here is where I am at with the new stereo integrity midbass drivers. They require alot of depth (hence the strange spacers on there which will not be needed) so I decided to sacrifice the door panels for audio greatness. I am getting covers on them and then figuring out a way to clean up the cut to make it look more factory:

 

Looking kind of ghetto right now with those speaker cutouts. Hopefully, the finished panel will look much better.

 

Absolutely agree. I have an idea to clean it up, but first comes the covers. I think just running speaker cloth over that whole bottom panel will look much better.

 

I think it depends on the application but I agree with spray paint on leaf springs. I'm glad I powder coated my sliders. Trying to paint them was a epic fail. I do need to touch them up though.

 

I have my sliders coming in a few weeks. So I can cross that bridge…

 

Truck started with some bullshit this morning. Got to the end of my road and it stalled. Ok weird, restarted like nothing was amiss.

No other issues on the drive to work except if it hits about 3200RPM then it starts stumbling like a misfire but there's no blinking engine light. Fortunately it's pretty flat here so staying under 3k isn't a huge deal.

Ran fine yesterday, only difference is I filled it with 93 late afternoon since Sheetz was selling it for the same price as 87. I'd chock it up to bad gas but I filled the Nissan with the same thing at it's fine. I'd also expect it to be inconsistent but it's always at the same RPM.

Does this under load and in neutral just revving it up. I may just throw a new set of plugs in it to see what happens.