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Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by T-Rex266, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. Jul 19, 2017 at 8:26 AM
    #871
    B_DUB

    B_DUB New Member

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    JTP, have you have the truck hooked up to a computer and what faults were shown? If it is (C0210) or (C0215) it is a rear speed sensor that, at least on my 2016, you can change yourself in 10 minutes. If code (U0129) comes up then your looking a Brake Controller relay needing replaced. I haven't replaced that one yet on mine but will probably do so soon. Hope this helps!
     
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  2. Jul 19, 2017 at 11:00 AM
    #872
    B_DUB

    B_DUB New Member

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    LOTSOFTOYS: I'm wandering if this could be a brake booster issue. It does have a spring in it.
     
  3. Jul 19, 2017 at 4:35 PM
    #873
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Have not hooked it up to a computer. Im assuming that I can buy my own code reader from an auto supply??
     
  4. Jul 20, 2017 at 7:52 PM
    #874
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    The second bedding did the trick, I suspect the zinc coating really needs to get heated up so the resin from the brake pads can adhere to it and from what I read the zinc gets worn off from use. I ran it much harder this time and it brakes VERY well now.[/QUOTE]
    Sweet....


    Variable speed sensors? Elaborate plz...

    Like others have said u need to pull codes on the abs/vsc lights sounds like ur headlights are switching for drl to low beam depending on the light sensor. This also changes your back kiting on the radio.... it's customizable.

    Doubtful, we rarely have booster problems
     
  5. Jul 20, 2017 at 9:29 PM
    #875
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    I know that the display is customizable. It was stuck on very bright, even at night with the head lights on when I first bought it. Got that sorted out and fixed and it goes dim when the head lights or parking lights are turned on and is bright during the day with the head lights / parking lights off.

    I do not have day time driving head lights. My two front amber turn signals are lit up very bright with the head lights off, thats it.

    No day time head lights setting on the head light switch. Would explain the screen going back and forth / flickering between dim and day time if a light sensor is blocked or bad but as far as I know none of my lights are on a light sensor.

    My amber front turn signals come on bright when the truck is turned on during the day or night. Those are the day time running lights. They go dim when I turn on the parking or head lights. Radio also dims.

    As far as trac control and ABS, don't know how that would be tied in to the radio / nav screen issue???

    As far as the sporadic power loss issue is concerned, same again, how would that be tied to to the other two things???

    Just got back into town tonight and will hit up the auto supply in the morning for a code reader.

    Will need to find where to plug it in to the truck and find out where to get whats wrong / needs to replaced from what ever codes I might get.
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2017
  6. Jul 20, 2017 at 10:02 PM
    #876
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Which Ultrguage did you get? They have the EM Plus, MX, and the Bluetooth version.
     
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  7. Jul 20, 2017 at 11:47 PM
    #877
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    I ordered the Bluetooth Ultraguage.

    Will run by Auto Zone or Oriley in the morning to see if they have a code reader to borrow to get a read on whats going on with my truck.
     
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  8. Jul 21, 2017 at 10:56 PM
    #878
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Apparently ABS and Traction Control can not be read by off the shelf code readers. Toyota Dealer Only readable / clearable from what I am getting. I have an upper end more expensive break controller installed. I don't now if that would have had an effect on the ABS or not. Ive been running my new 4:88's and the LSD for about 1000 miles with no issues so I don't think that has anything to do with it. Again, the lights stay off for about 10 mins after start and then come on and stay on. On other tips the lights never come on at all. Once they come on they never go out. If I shut off the truck and then turn it back on the lights are on. I don't know if this could be possibly temperature related???

    Then I get the engine cutting off issue for a second or two and then coming back on with no dash lights, abnormal temps, or any other indication except loss of about 800 to 1000 RPM and it comes back. Its done it now a few times right in a row now and then the truck runs fine the rest of the trip. It will run fine for miles and miles and out of the blue experience the second or two of power loss and then come right back. No bumps, no breaking, no nothing to indicate a loose wire or almost chewed through wire. If there are no dash lights will there be codes?

    I think that my flickering radio / navigation display is bump and hitting the breaks related. Something is loose somewhere. It might be tied to the HID Conversion, will have to trace everything out to see if something is loose. I could swear that there is no sensor at all in the head light on and off system and or radio dim system. Its all on by the headlights on off switch, right?

    Screen should only dim or go bright with the head light switch from what I understand. This has got to be something related to the HID mod but I am not for sure. All that I can do is look at all of my connections, wires, and see if there might be something loose right now. I can not see how a loose wire or connection could cause this unless its the switch itself but if there is a short some place it might have an effect but I don't know how it could. I just don't know WTF.

    As far as the engine dying for a few seconds at a time it almost feels like fuel starvation, like it quits getting gas. I pump the gas pedal a few times when it dose it and the engine comes right back to life. Its nothing electrical I think but I might be wrong. There very well might be rat wire damage under the intake. Going to not be fun removing all of that for a look but I am going have to pull it to look at that possibility. Toyota will chase me a fortune to do it. Im also wondering if there might be a fuel filter issue or something fuel pump related. If any one knows where the fuel filter is located on these please let me know. Might be worth changing just to se what happens. Again, I don't know WTF.

    I thinking that I might have 3 separate unrelated issues but agin it all could be all related. Fucking all electronic truck, who knows what the fuck, just a matter of processing, going through everything, and there is no technical info that I have found on on of the systems on truck. They teach you how EVERYTHING works when you learn to fly airplanes and give detailed systems info.
     
    Last edited: Jul 21, 2017
  9. Jul 23, 2017 at 5:39 AM
    #879
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Holy posts batman cool your jets there. Hard to read a book then read another book and put together a reply.

    This is what I'm getting.... your headlight switch has only
    off
    Parking lights
    On


    Is that correct?







    The 4.88 gears you had installed make me think that's related to the trac issues. These trucks are sensitive to hard throttle/trac... I'd imagine with 4.88s that thing scoots pretty good. Possible your losing traction? Also... when gears are installed axle shafts have to be removed. Any chance you had wheel bearings replaced at same time? I'd spend some time on the back axle and make sure the abs wiring is ok and the sensors are installed properly.
     
  10. Jul 23, 2017 at 6:15 AM
    #880
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Correct on the headlight switch, no day time HEADLIGHTS, ONLY the amber front turn signals light up bright.

    YES, the truck scoots pretty good. Rear end hooks up slick as all get out.


    I had the Nitro 4:88's installed which contains ALL OEM bearings and seals.

    Also had the Auburn LSD installed at the same time so I am not losing any traction

    All done at a Toyota Dealer

    The lights come after about 10 mins of driving, 95% of the time. If I turn the truck off then back on the lights will stay on.

    I can drive it for 30 to 45 mins sometimes and the lights never come on.

    The truck can sit all day and then drive it and the lights come on and stay on immediately.

    No rime or reason to it.

    I am NOT driving the crap out of it or doing anything besides just normal driving.


    I still think that I have hidden rat wire damage under my intake which is causing the temporary engine cutting on and off. Just my gut feeling. My wife's FJ had the same exact thing but her truck ran like total crap and barley made it the couple miles up to Toyota. It ran like it was on 3 cylinders. I think that Ive got a comparatively minor wire issue doing the same "cutting out" but no where near as bad. Just need to take the air intake loose and remove the few other hoses and get under the intake to have a look. On the docket for today.

    I don't know if one Toyota Dealer will cover another Dealers work or not?

    I had my gears done at a small dealer about 5 hours away. Was down there working and rented a vehicle from them while they did the work over the couple of days. I dont know if my local dealer will take a look at the sensors or not without charging me.
     
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2017
  11. Jul 26, 2017 at 8:23 PM
    #881
    Joeshaker

    Joeshaker New Member

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    I'm getting the windshield in my 13 sr5 replaced through amfam. Accordingly to them there are like three different ones and they've had trouble figuring out how to get the right one for each particular truck. So, I'm getting the one with blue tint on the top and heated wipers. I don't think mine has the heated wipers. Are all the trucks wired for it? If so, is it just a matter of the glass guy plugging it in? Or is there more to it than that?
     
  12. Jul 26, 2017 at 8:28 PM
    #882
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    If you have heated mirrors, you have the heated wiper area. They operate on the same switch. There's a connector at the base of the screen, easier than falling off a log.
     
  13. Jul 26, 2017 at 8:32 PM
    #883
    Joeshaker

    Joeshaker New Member

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    Awesome! I do have heated mirrors, weird that they don't list the heated wipers on the monronney sticker with the mirrors
     
  14. Jul 26, 2017 at 9:24 PM
    #884
    Joeshaker

    Joeshaker New Member

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    Or does having the heated mirrors just indicate that the truck is wired for the wiper area?
     
  15. Jul 26, 2017 at 9:33 PM
    #885
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Look at the black area at the base of your windshield where your wipers park. There will be some fine copper wires, that's the heating element.

    The exception would be if your windshield was replaced with one without the element. You could take the cowling apart and check for the connector yourself as well...
     
  16. Jul 26, 2017 at 9:44 PM
    #886
    Joeshaker

    Joeshaker New Member

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    I'm pretty sure it's the original, still has the factory emmissions sticker but that could have been taken off and put on a new piece of glass. It only had 9k on it when I got it although this is Colorado, windshields take a beating here. I'll look for the copper wires tomorrow. Is that cowling pretty easy to take apart? They ordered the one with it, so I'm pretty sure the glass guy will hook it up if the connecter is there.
     
  17. Jul 27, 2017 at 11:54 AM
    #887
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Unless the two dealers are owned by the same company you will likely be charged. That's an interesting one man, I'd like to know what they find out!
     
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  18. Jul 27, 2017 at 7:29 PM
    #888
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Ok, learned a lot over the last few days.


    Learned that if you drive with two feet and mash the break while your mashing the gas the truck will "automatically reduce engine power". I don't drive with two feet BUT the new break controller I added seems to be defective and is sending the truck bogus breaking signals (out of the blue) that breaks are being applied thus the truck is reducing the engine power which feels like its cutting out.

    Apparently this issue is also sending a signal to the truck that in turn is also affecting the Trac control and the ABS system and is setting off the Trac Control and ABS lights.
     
  19. Jul 27, 2017 at 8:16 PM
    #889
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    From what I've read, the gas-then-brake power reduction wasn't part of the early software programming. Some noticed the change after the dealer reflashed their ECU for other reasons. I keep forgetting to see if my 2011 operates this way or not.

    The rest I have no idea.
     
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  20. Jul 27, 2017 at 8:25 PM
    #890
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Mine is a 2013. I never knew about this so it makes sense now that the break controller was the culprit. Since the Trac Control and ABS are apart to the braking system same again, the break controller is the problem not the truck. Will be sending it back for a replacement unit. Hope that it was just this one unit that was bad. Here is what I have.

    https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Tekonsha/90195.html
     
  21. Jul 30, 2017 at 7:57 AM
    #891
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    STILL HAVING PROBLEMS

    Replaced the brake switch, didn't fix the problem.


    Still getting ABS & Trac lights. Truck is still cutting out like its running out of gas. About 70% of the time it will do it as I'm pulling away from a stop. About midway into the intersection the truck acts like I hit the brakes and the gas at the same time and the engine reduces power.

    If I hold down the gas peddle it looses even more power. If I pump the gas the power comes right back.

    Will also do the exact same thing going down the road out of the blue.

    No bumps, no turns, no nothing that would indicated a loose or chaffed wire or something barley making contact.

    Truck will run for 30 mins fine with no lights then start the die thing and then the lights come on or vice versa. Lights come on then the die thing starts.

    Its getting worse and worse as time is going by. The power is not coming back near as quick when it did. Its staying dead for a full 2 to 3 seconds now.

    I can go out and start it after sitting all night and no lights and no cutting out issue.

    I can go out and start it and the Trac Control and ABS light will stay on and the truck will do the cut out thing imedatley.

    I CAN START AND THEN DRIVE IT FOR 30 MINS AND NO MALFUNCTIONS

    I CAN START IT AND IMMEDIATELY HAVE THE MALFUNCTIONS.

    So I don't think that something is warming up, getting hot, and then malfunctioning.

    Now its is getting ridiculous.

    I tried to get it to loose power in TOW HAUL MODE

    Truck would not loose power but I didint drive it in that mode for very long.

    WHERE IS THE FUEL FILTER ON THIS THING?
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2017
  22. Jul 30, 2017 at 12:20 PM
    #892
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    There isn't a fuel filter.
     
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  23. Jul 30, 2017 at 4:20 PM
    #893
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    They had it last Thursday and Friday. Truck would not throw the lights nor cut out for them. I picked it up Friday night and the lights came on and it cut out 4 times with in the 2.5 miles for me to get home.

    Started it Saturday morning. No lights and no cutting out for at least 35 mins of driving then it started again. Took it back to the Dealership that morning and they put a brake switch in it.

    Drove fine for another 20 mins then the same again. ABS / Trac Control lights and cutting out.

    Drove it all day today off and on for 20 to 40 mins at a time. Drove 7 or 8 different times waiting for it to start acting up.

    No lights, no cutting out, acted totally normal. WTF!

    I did pray over it and told Satan to get away from my truck last night. MAYBE THAT FIXED IT! I need all the help from God that I can get.

    :annoyed::annoyed::annoyed::annoyed::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl::angrygirl:
     
    Last edited: Jul 30, 2017
  24. Jul 30, 2017 at 4:39 PM
    #894
    hillbillytoyo

    hillbillytoyo Just a country boy

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    Tundra has 2k miles on it. Tires are squelling and Toyota dealership determined that it was in fact the tires. The tires are the only thing not covered under warranty. So now I have to go to a Michelin dealer and plead my case. Do you have any suggestions on what I should tell the tires shop? If the tire shop doesn't agree to replace the tires then I have to go back to the dealership.
     
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2017
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  25. Jul 31, 2017 at 2:39 PM
    #895
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    Go for a ride with a tech and chow him what it's doing
     
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  26. Jul 31, 2017 at 2:40 PM
    #896
    LOTSOFTOYS

    LOTSOFTOYS Toyota Whisperer

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    I'm confused... ur wheels are squealing? Or tires?
     
  27. Jul 31, 2017 at 2:47 PM
    #897
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Translation: Buy him lunch too?
     
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  28. Jul 31, 2017 at 3:45 PM
    #898
    hillbillytoyo

    hillbillytoyo Just a country boy

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    My bad , it's the tires.
     
  29. Jul 31, 2017 at 7:01 PM
    #899
    JTP

    JTP The Big Black Moose

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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jim
    Sterling, Alaska (Formerly DFW Texas)
    Vehicle:
    The Big Black Moose
    OK GOT TO THE BOTTOM OF ALL OF THIS CRAP

    Its my new brake controller. Apparently its sending false braking info to the truck which intern is causing the engine to reduce power (as if Im mashing the gas and the brakes at the same time)

    Apparently it is also affecting the ABS and the Trac Control setting the lights off.

    Two full days of multiple trips with it unplugged AND NO LIGHTS OR CUTTING OUT>

    Now I can not get hold of Etrailer where I bought it.

    I was leery of plugging into this "already wired" trailer brake set up on this truck thinking that an aftermarket made in China electronic device would be sending info through the system. Figured that Toyota Engineers had already figured this out and that surely the "pre wire" was not connected in anyway to the truck itself except for power and ground like a normal brake controller.

    Apparently this thing has affected the entire fricken truck.

    Now I can't not get a hold of ETrailer for a replacement or a refund. I won't put another one of these electronic controllers in it. Will do it the old fashion way and run all of my own wires back to the ass end and NOT use the pre wire harness.
     
    NewImprovedRon likes this.
  30. Jul 31, 2017 at 8:41 PM
    #900
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2014
    Member:
    #379
    Messages:
    5,055
    Gender:
    Male
    Rockies
    Vehicle:
    Souped up truck
    Magnuson Magnum TVS 2650 S/C Sniv's Speed Shop 70mm pulley RCF Throttle Body TRD PRO BBS Wheels TRD Front Sway Bar TRD Rear Sway Bar Fox TRD Pro Shocks Limited mirrors (auto darkening/backup camera/power fold/puddle lights) Limited Grill Mod Automatic Climate Controls Mod Automatic Headlamp Mod Sequoia Transfer Case Mod Sequoia Leather Steering Wheel Mod Sequoia Limited Gage Cluster Mod Sequoia LED Headlamp Upgrade Window Tint 15/70% Fake Manual Transmission Mod 10" BAMufflers Stainless Catback Valhalla Catalytic Converter Shields Engine Block Heater Illuminated Ignition Key Ring Mod Deck Rail System w/cleats Solid Offroad Engine Mounts
     
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