General Supercharger Thread.

Would a 160 degree thermostat actually make a difference? The regular coolant operating temp of my truck is close to 200 degrees no matter the weather. If the factory one activates at 180 and the temps still level out around 200 anyway, how does a 160 degree thermostat change anything? Most I could see is it delaying the time a bit for the coolant to reach 200 from when it activated at 160. Am I missing the point of it?

 

I’m guessing here

it would allow the thermostat to let the engine fall below 180

however. In houston. I stay at 195 all the time

is this because the thermostat is keeping it at this temp? >180

I’m ignorant on this. Learn me

 

https://www.motortrend.com/reviews/1308-low-temp-thermostats/
I found this article that explains it fairly well. The idea of the thermostat “hunting” was something I didn’t think about before I read this. The article is from 2013 so I’m not sure if the mishimoto thermostat falls under the caliber of what he’s talking about. But seeing as we have a HX and some having a transmission cooler blocking the radiator. I’m not sure the variables with it. curiosity has me wanting to test it. It’s not a complicated thing to swap out.

Mishimoto MMTS-TUN-07 Racing Thermostat Compatible With Toyota Tundra 2007+

$58 Mishimoto MMTS-TUN-07 Racing Thermostat Compatible With Toyota Tundra 2007+

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNBBR5B

also I think Amazon has it cheaper as well

 

I have this paired up with the CSF radiator. Mine normally lingers around 160-180.

 

Damn that’s cool

 

That makes more sense. It could be useful if we have a radiator capable of keeping the temps lower. My stock radiator today for example, regular driving at 52 degree ambient and I’m at 195 coolant temp.

 

so my guess is that the OEM thermostat starts to open at 180 and is probably fully open at 200 degrees. Since @vq35721 temps are running 160-180 I assume his is fully open at 180.(the radiator could be a variable). But I’ve seen on some older forums people saying Toyota would use 160 or 170 thermostats of the S/C pros they used to put out. Still trying to find that literature.

also a thought I had since the 2019+ don’t have an external transmission cooler, and from my understanding it’s some how incorporated with the engine coolant. Maybe with the cooler thermostat, I wonder if there’s some benefit to keeping the engine coolant cooler and keeping the trans temp cooler as well

 

Fwiw I ran the URD 160 temp thermostat on the s/c'd taco. I wasn't monitoring anything, but saw no issues

 

Had to remove my prefilter, was triggering rich bank codes.
Cut a clear lid for the Stillen and swapped in some thumb screws. The 7:30 screw hits the hood a tiny bit but makes it easier to inspect the filter.

 

Has that thing ever seen the road?! Ha! So fresh and so clean! Looks show-car worthy!

 

Haha! Its new AFE filter, had a K&N oiled and swapped this monstrosity in. The thing barely fits in the air box with little room to spare. I don't even think I have 10K on the truck plus its a second vehicle so I split the miles between them. Mostly working from home since the Rona hit too.

 

This is the filter if others partake in the Stillen fuckery:
https://afepower.com/afe-power-21-91119-magnum-flow-pro-dry-s-air-filter

They sell two oiled versions of it too. I went dry...snicker

 

I need to figure out a way to make that work in the maggy box

 

The fireman build cut up his maggie box with a custom intake. I would probably start there for inspiration.

 

Yet another question for you guys: what made you guys choose the Magnuson over the Harrop, or vice versa?

This is moreso for the guys that have purchased following the Harrop becoming available. I know for a long time the Maggy was the only option anyway.

 

At the time of purchase no tuning options existed for 2019+. Harrop Stage 1 runs on the stock fuel map without a tune. This thread actually originally started as a Harrop Stage 1 thread.

 

Yeah, aware of the tuning thing with the Harrop.

Just trying to get an idea of why people choose one vs the other now that they're both available and tuning software supports them. The Harrop definitely allows for additional modification paths on the hunt for additional power, no doubt about that. The lower average IATs are certainly nice, along with the additional fueling percentage bump you can get with their included pump.

 

Personally, I really do see and can appreciate the simplicity of just slapping the Maggy on, throwing on an aftermarket tune, and calling it good.

 

Well, this testing by DAP kind of sold me. Same truck, same day, same tuner. Other things I liked were the differences in design highlighted on Viktor’s one YouTube video. I also wasn’t sure if I’d be installing myself and I liked that I could easily access all of the bolts, the magnuson has a few bastard ones. When you look at the real world performance though, I think they’re extremely similar unless you’re going to have a built engine and turn up the boost. Viktor’s video for reference….https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L3CpQU2v868

 

I'd seen that video awhile back when doing initial research, I liked the explanation between them.

Thanks for the DAP screenshot. Definitely impressive stuff.

 

I would’ve chosen the harrop if I didn’t get this maggy at such a good price. The harrop is much more efficient as we know. But the maggy does sound pretty damn good

 

If they're the same price I'd do the Harrop. $1000+ savings then get the Magnuson.

 

I just wanted the TRD letters in my engine bay lol

 

It helps to reduce peak temp, I believes there's a limit of how cool you can run, i.e. if engine is emitting more heat than radiator can dissipate than to help to keep it down would be the rad, but thermostat help to slow down the rise in temp.

Years ago I had a BMW 540, I loved that thing, spent way too much money on it and those v8 runs hot, coolant temp is often 230f when it's summer time, swapped to a 80c/176f thermostat and car seems happier, and radiators lasted longer, I'm sure there's a limit on how cold to run it before it hurts efficiency, but these are middle Eastern/Australia spec Toyota parts, so figure cheap insurance.

If someone makes a TRD top plate, I'd buy one.

 

Viktor's comparison video also played a big role in my decision making. I was also interested in "future proofing" if I did decide to get more performance.

 

RE: Thermostat. I bought one a few months ago and decided against installing. It's a tradeoff. Made more sense if I was WOTing around. So far the stock system does a good job in my application for my environment.

 

I got a maggie installed a few months ago and knew full well the harrop was available and superior in most factors. The difference though was that although I do most things DIY house/car/etc. I wanted as close to stock as possible and serviceable at the dealer. Furthermore my nearest dealer routinely installs maggie superchargers (but never a harrop which is interesting) and offered a discount as well. Now it could be the harrop ends up being more reliable than the maggie but I was going off the aspect that Toyota had the TRD versions as an option for several years and there seems to be minimal long term issues with the design/additional power for those using the originals from 2007/2008 etc. From my understanding the issues tend to arise from pushing the maggie/engine further than “stage 1”. If I was making a purpose built drag/fun/TRXhunter truck then harrop would have been the best choice.

 

Well we (YotaWerx Tuning) have a Magnuson SC on one of our Tundras (2018MY), and we're looking at putting the Harrop on our other Tundra (2020MY) and developing our tunes for both. Goal is to offer something like we did for the 3GTacoma back in May where people can use it as a plug and play option, ready to go, prioritizing low end and mid range torque where it's really wanted. We already started working on test tunes on the Maggy tundra, it's running stronger than the Maggy calibration for sure (not surprising, given the restrictions Maggy has to meet/observe WRT CARB). Weekend before last we were out in Phoenix visiting one of our networked tuners out there and did a lot of testing with regard to drivability enhancement. But given the differences in the kits when you look at the maggy option vs Harrop's stage 1, it seems to me like we'd inevitably have two different tunes available just due to the inherent superior capability of the harrop kit.

 

https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/catalog/engine-solutions/TVS-x3100.html?wtredirect=www.eatonperformance.com/x3100

Will it fit?

 

We Maggy boys have the TVS1900...not the 2650....so no, not without a lot more money spent...