Rack and pinion write up

Looking for a rack and pinion write up...searched.
Having some clicking noises when I back outta drive slow then stop also Forward or shake wheel back and forth. Does anyone know what year taco or 4 runner years would be similar for videos off top of their head?
Gonna try

$19 At-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

At-205 but I'm guessing I'll have to get a new reman Toyota rack and outer tie rods eventually as the new ones are on back order with no lead time according to Mc George Toyota.

 

It's actually a pretty easy job. Detroit axle has remaned racks for cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvvCWN0pQwg

 

I think @bmf4069 might disagree with that.

 

Me and @MrDirtjumper would disagree with that.

I used the Detroit axle rack. No problems so far. I'd consider replacing your lines too. As soon as I put the new rack on it busted my return line. The job itself is straightforward enough, it's just a pain.

 

I recently went with a oem reman and so far so good. Steering is tight and so far no issues. I got thrown a little by the steering wheel and trying to get the number of turns perfect, but it's too bad of a job. Just take your time.
I used this link for a little tutorial. It's not the exact same, but pretty similar and helps with getting the rack centered. Read it once or twice before diving in and you should be good. And we're here to help.

https://adventuretaco.com/guide/replacing-the-steering-rack-on-a-1st-gen-tacoma-or-3rd-gen-4runner/

 

Here's a few things I learned from doing my rack.
1. You can access the upper steering coupler nut from the wheel well if you remove the left side rubber splash shield. You will probably break a few plastic clips, so buy some extra.
2. Grease the rack body where it contacts the big rubber bushing to prevent rust. Also the A/C drain drips water onto this bushing promoting rust. Extend the A/C drain to redirect that water away from the rack.

 

Part number and quantities, since I have them handy:

Splash guard "Apron" fasteners: 9046710186
Fasteners required: R=5, RR=4, L=8, LL=4 (total 21)

R is right, forward the strut
RR is right, behind the strut
Rinse/repeat for the left L/LL.

 

My Rack did not come with a dust cap 452220C010.
I noticed most do not.
Do most people just buy this dust cap separately or install without it?

 

Thanks so much for posting this! I recently bought and installed the

Set of Four Splash Shields with Clips for Tundra 2000-2006 & Sequoia 2001-2007 (Fender Liner, Apron, Shield, Splash Guard, Skirt, Guard, Seal, Splash Seal) T

Yota splash guards for our 2000 SR5 AC 4x4 and the clips that came with them are a little undersized. Seems to be a common complaint in the reviews. Most are holding but I'd expect they'll all pop out sooner or later. The rubber splash guards themselves are just okay. Some of the holes don't line up well so the rubber gets stretched in some areas and buckles in others. The clip on the driver's side that attaches to the shock tower doesn't hold at all. I tried punching a new hole closer to where one of the holes should be in another one and it immediately ripped into the original hole. Still works, but... Better than what was left of the old stuff. Certainly cheaper than the $25 or so Toyota wants for individual OEM replacements I guess.

I made templates of all of them so if they fail in the future I'll just cut my own out of some tougher material.

Here are some photos for anyone that follows. I only installed three as one of the originals was still in place and after almost a quarter-million miles, in pretty good shape!

In any case, looked and looked for the PN for the OEM clips and couldn't find it, until now! Thanks!

 

Yeah, about that.

The shock towers just don't hold worth a shit, even with the OEM clips. It's almost like the metal of the tower is thicker and you really hafta mash them in firmly.

OEM splash guards are similar to what you describe: The holes don't line up well, so the rubber buckles in some areas (no stretching, though). I could tell my old ones were the same way, but with time they'd both shrunk a bit and hardened so it wasn't as obvious.

So ... just know, it may not just be the product you installed. And for the record, the Yoda set looks identical to OEM, just 10-20% cheaper. The clips they're selling look near identical to OEM also, so you may want to grab one or two of the OEM to compare before going whole-hog.

 

Good advice and will do!

 

I used zip ties for a couple of the holes after breaking some of the fasteners. Seem to be holding without issue. Just a thought. Can’t tell unless you’re looking for them.

 

Great little hack!