Roof molding

I've got the rubber roof molding to put back on after paint. It seems to me that these were probably attached to some sort of clip originally from the looks of things. Anyone taken them off after the factory put them on? Mine were on with black silicone or something and then I used 3m double sided tape when one flew off flapping while driving.
Should I just 3m and call it good or anyone got a better idea?









After a better look at the parts breakdown diagram it looks like there isn't a clip? Maybe silicone and double sided tape is how it's done from factory...idk.

 

I don't think there was ever a clip. Just some sort of adhesive. I removed mine and painted them. Then I cleaned out the channel and put them back in place with Fuze It and 3M tape.

 

I’ve watched the Prinsu roof rack install vid a few times and didn’t see any clips.

 

OP, my moulding was coming loose so I bought some black RTV. It's been working well for over a year now with no issue. Clean the area and then add some to the moulding. Use something with weight to hold the molding down to adhered properly overnight.

 

There were no clips on mine, just adhesive. I replaced mine with 3M tape and silicone at the rear window. The gap or pocket in the rear window trim in which you insert the end of this roof trim piece is wide open. If you don't seal it, rain water will run into that pocket and right inside your truck. This is one of the sources of the illusive problem people have with wet carpets in the rear of their cab. Everyone claims this is caused by the third-brake light gasket as causing this problem. That brake light gasket might also be a source of the problem, but this connection between the roof trim and rear window trim is definitely another source. It has to be sealed with something because the two rubber pieces don't create a perfect seal.

Some kind of strong sealant at the front where it meets the front window trim is also important to keep it from getting caught by the wind and flopping around or pulling right off.

 

Mine had sealant on the front then tape on the back. Never wet in carpet. A quick look this morning it didn't look wide open to water infiltration with the molding off. It has rained since I've got it back so I'll have to check the carpet...are you saying where the red circle is in this pic it will leak?

 

No, it won't, Toyota put it there from the factory for a reason, it's best NOT to seal it.

It's an intentional drain to avoid water entry into the cab. Its purpose and how to clean the drain channel (which you should do if you suspect a leak from the top of the rear window) can be found HERE.

Lots of common leak sources and how to fix can be found in the 1st gen definitive leak thread.

Interrupting the natural, intended waterflow is liable to land you with unintended leaks in other places. You really don't want to mess around with OEM drains...

 

Hi06silver - yes, that's the spot I'm refering to. If you don't have any leaks, then go with Shifty's advice and leave it alone (i.e., no sealant there). I don't want to add to any confusion on this topic.

Thanks

 

Definitely not suggesting to leave it alone. Just don't seal it off because it's a legitimate drain, and because it's a drain, everyone should take a minute every so often to clear it out so you don't end up with leaks when the side drain channel backs up. Just like sunroof drains, those drains are a maintenance item, they do need to stay open/clear.

Weedeater string works great for cleaning it out, and the easiest time to do it is when you've got the uppers out. You don't need pressurized water, or a water hose. If you use those, you should put a towel down in the rear to catch water that inevitably gets in around the surround of the window, the rear windows aren't truly watertight, hence the drains needing to be there.

I used a squirt bottle in the example I linked, it worked great. You'd be shocked at how much garbage comes out. Once that side channel backs up, water sits at the top of the window and will totally leak. But if you seal the top of it, you risk blocking the hole, and water coming off the roof between the channels has nowhere to go ... which ultimately leaves you with rust.

Blockage in that drain is more of a problem with non-metallic paints. Solid, non-metallic paints are single-stage (no clearcoat), and once the underlying paint oxidizes, it can hold every spec of dirt that passes by.

I wish I could just pop my rear window out, deep clean everything, polish paint, seal, and reinstall. I've been contemplating just replacing the entire rear window proactively, but the $675-$1k price tag isn't very appealing.

 

Thanks @shifty` for the link. I had no idea there was a drain back there. I had no intentions of just leaving it, just looked like a non factory way of attachment. Probably gonna tackle the sunroof and the back drains same time. Super curious now. I have never found evidence of leakage at the rear but there was a tiny bit of rust bubbling back there. I also had single stage paint....
That back roof molding just had the double sided tape stuck to those little ribs on the underside. I have pulled the removable part of rear window to clean in the past but apparently there are some parts that are riveted on according to the guy that did my painting. I'll report back later hopefully with clear passages.

 

I'd be curious to know what's involved with removing the outside surround, if it's possible. I'd love to take that outer black surround off and re-finish it. It would also let me deep clean the paint and check seals. Now I'm curious how it's attached for those of us AC guys with a horizontal slider?

I'm not sure about the rivets you speak of, but I recall seeing a couple of posts, one the two possibly on TundraSolutions, about bolts inside the cab that hold the horizontal sliding window assembly in. I have it stuck in my head the horizontal sliders are more of a "compression" fit (sandwich) than something you seal in.

If that's the case, I may consider doing my own window, if I can get a good deal...

 

I assume similar to this for rivet placement. I'll ask when I go back down there to body shop to retrieve a hood bumper.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-windshield-channel-rivets.1043418/
Whoops forgot link

 

@shifty` I don't see where there is a drain in that spot on the DC with the power window. But I maky be overly pissed about compound being on my rear headrests after rolling it down and not seeing everything clearly either. Couldn't find a legit source for drains on DC online either....super annoyed
Gonna do sunroof to calm nerves.

 

I will say, without actually tearing the interior apart that the sunroof drains are not in the best spots...they are clear on mine but they drain out between the pinch welds which seems like a horrible spot without seeing a tube. On the bright side they shouldn't really see much water regularly to promote rust where it's hard to see?

 

On the other upside, I think I see the rivets in question.

Weird the DC doesn't have drains like the RC and AC. But then again, DC is really more of a Sequoia with a bed than it is a truck.

 

Somebody's got rear window envy..

 

Grass is always greener