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2006 4.7L Engine Noise

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by interceptor84, Mar 8, 2018.

  1. Mar 8, 2018 at 5:17 AM
    #1
    interceptor84

    interceptor84 [OP] New Member

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    I'm hearing a noise in engine after it warms up that sounds like a rattle/tapping noise, but seems be coming from front of engine. Any ideas? Video linked below.

    https://youtu.be/LOP7zwjzVBA
     
    remington351 likes this.
  2. Mar 9, 2018 at 4:57 AM
    #2
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    I notice videos always pick up the lifters making noise, but with the human ear they sound fine. I hear another noise in there, sounds like a timing belt flapping around, hitting the plastic cover.
     
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  3. Mar 26, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #3
    mooney

    mooney New Member

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    Funny you posted this, I just registered with this site to ask the same question. Mine doesn't seem to be as pronounced - more like a faint rattling sound - but I used the old hose trick to pinpoint the noise, and it's coming from under the front of the driver's side valve cover. I'm suspecting something to do with the VVT system.

    If you're not familiar with the hose trick, cut a short piece of garden hose (1.5 or 2 ft long) and hold one end up to your ear while you move the other end around the engine bay, touching various components. When you find the area the noise is coming from, it will be very pronounced through the hose.

    Give that a try and let's see if we have the same problem...
     
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  4. Mar 27, 2018 at 5:27 AM
    #4
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    I have a stethoscope hooked to a hose, talking small fuel line size. I have another piece of hose taped to a coat hanger so I can aim and get into tight places. There is really no other way to pinpoint a noise except standing there scratching your head.
     
  5. Mar 27, 2018 at 5:43 AM
    #5
    interceptor84

    interceptor84 [OP] New Member

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    I ended up buying an automotive stethoscope. The noise is most prominent on the flange that goes into the water pump. Im fairly certain at this point the scrapping/rattle noise is a bad water pump bearing. Doing a whole timing and water pump kit next weekend.
     
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  6. Mar 29, 2018 at 4:36 AM
    #6
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    I listened again, and that's what it sounds like.......does the fan have any movement? I use Aisin water pumps, and Gates belts
     
  7. Mar 29, 2018 at 4:50 AM
    #7
    interceptor84

    interceptor84 [OP] New Member

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    I ran it a week ago for a few minutes without the drive belt to rule out fan and idler pully as the source of the noise. It still made the sound which further solidified my thought that its the water pump. I picked up a gates water pump and timing kit. It has all the components to do the job right.
     
  8. Mar 29, 2018 at 5:08 AM
    #8
    zombie

    zombie Master at Something

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    Nothing wrong with Gates pumps, I use those if I can't find Aisin. Sounds like your on the right track.....when you get down to the belt, you can always run it again before taking the belt off to make sure. Most likely your problem. I did read something about an air pump noise on the second gens, so keep that in mind just in case.
     
  9. Mar 29, 2018 at 5:12 AM
    #9
    interceptor84

    interceptor84 [OP] New Member

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    Will do, thanks!
     
  10. Apr 25, 2018 at 6:05 AM
    #10
    interceptor84

    interceptor84 [OP] New Member

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    Just an update on this. Put the new waterpump and timing belt in Noise gone! The old pump had more play than a playground in it.
     
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  11. Jul 22, 2018 at 4:19 PM
    #11
    Tebdanner

    Tebdanner New Member

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    Mine makes the same noise... 110,000 miles... when the accompressor comes on it stops... ticks like crazy with a load while on the road....
     
  12. Jul 22, 2018 at 4:27 PM
    #12
    Tebdanner

    Tebdanner New Member

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    Won’t let me upload my video.
     
  13. Aug 9, 2018 at 3:58 AM
    #13
    edwardsplus3

    edwardsplus3 New Member

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    I have a 2004 Tundra with the 4.7 and when I am towing I get a ticking also. Is it a possible exhaust leak?
     
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  14. Jan 11, 2019 at 1:34 PM
    #14
    tlswift

    tlswift New Member

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    I've got a 2006 Tundra Limited that makes what sounds like a loud (yes very loud) ticking noise. Never had the issue till I let the truck sit for 2-3 weeks. Went out to crank it up and that is when the noise started. Have used Mobil 1 or synthetic oil and good filters (Mobil 1 / K&N / Royal Purple) since buying it in 2012.

    Have diagnosed it as far as I know how, but here is what has been done:

    Checked exhaust for leaks - passenger side - found none
    Used a stethascope and found more of a "tapping" noise on passenger side valve train - nothing on drivers side at all
    Pulled valve cover and everything looks good there with the VVTI
    Pulled cam tower timing belt covers - both sides - timing belt looks new. Got into Toyota webpage and Service Records show timing belt & water pump replaced in Nov 2012 at 103,000 miles. It has only 131,500 now.
    Pulled coils one by one on passenger side to see if load change (no firing on that cylinder) would change noise level for possible piston issues - nothing

    Not saying it is not be a leak, but just REAL LOUD all the time - hot / cold. Sounds increases as you rev it up as well

    Some Toyo mechs say it may be tensioner(s) for timing belt - as I saw nothing on the Service Report to say they changed them out - yet that seems to be a one time fix all - but was done by a Toyo Dealer - so who knows. Can't get to tensioners without removing water pump and host of other stuff in front of them - so not wanting to pull it all apart right now.

    Took it to a local mechanic / shop who did a quick hear of it - and they state it sounds like them to be piston slap. Suggested I call a Toyo Dealer - as we don't have one within 50 miles - and talked to a mech there who could / would not diagnose over phone. Told him what my mech said and he didn't think with such few miles and sound all the sudden was piston slap. Another Toyo mech on FB said it could be piston wrist pin issue, but would not the unloading of the piston by taking the coil off that hole - then not make a noise? Can't get it into another local shop until next Thursday and no way to drive it to a Toyo Dealer - would need to tow it.

    Any more ideas?
     
  15. Jan 11, 2019 at 1:36 PM
    #15
    tlswift

    tlswift New Member

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    Did you replace the tensioners as well?
     
  16. Mar 5, 2019 at 12:06 PM
    #16
    greenbuild

    greenbuild New Member

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    Sorry, I don't have an answer, but I have a similar problem with my 2006 Tundra (I think my problem is more significant). When I started it up yesterday, after it sat over the weekend, came to life with a loud, rhythmic, percussive sound. Worse than my neighbor' diesel Ford starting in the morning. I immediately shut it down and towed it to the Toyota dealer. They said that it was piston slap and that with the 'interference' engine that is in here, that the engine would need to be replaced. I've got only 105,000 miles on it. Wondering if you have learned any more about your situation.
     
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  17. Mar 6, 2019 at 5:41 AM
    #17
    tlswift

    tlswift New Member

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    just a ARE tonneau cover
    Still have the problem even after the shop had it for a month "looking."

    Here is what they "said" they did:
    Removed and disassembled engine
    Checked for an abnormal wear or damage
    Check and adjusted valve clearance
    Checked camshafts
    Checked intake dual plane valve
    Had machine shop disassemble & check heads, valves, and springs - lapped valves in
    Removed and checked pistons, wrist pins, and rods
    Checked exhaust manifold for leaks
    Checked all pulley's & water pump bearings
    Checked flex plate & converter for damage
    Found no apparent problems at this time
    Reassembled engine and refilled with appropriate fluids (did not use Toyota Red Anti-freeze / coolant, but looks like Prestone - green / yellow)
    Test drove vehicle
    Replaced serpentine drive belt
    NOISE IS STILL PRESENT!

    I'd personally try to take the truck to a "different" shop for a 2nd opinion - as a motor is like $5k. All my items done was just over $3k, which is absurd really; when they found nothing really wrong.

    From the checking I've done so far (been raining and cold) - I'm not seeing a removed engine; as none of the points required to remove it like the hood / etc. don't seem to be different than when it went in - you know marked bolts, slight off alignment from factory, and so on.

    In the 1st Gen FaceBook forum, I and the shop checked ALL the typical culprits that would make the very loud noise. Timing belt & water pump were done by Toyota Dealer about 50k miles ago and timing belt looked brand spanking new from looking at it at the cam tower / timing belt upper covers, flex plate, and so on. Pulled coil packs separately one by one to see if it may be piston slap / etc. - but no difference in engine / noise. If piston slap, doing the coil pack removal while engine is running should / would show up as no load / firing of the cylinder would be going on and that may identify that particular cylinder / piston issue - IF THERE IS ONE.

    After getting my truck back and someone asking about the flex plate, I did check it and could not see and issues, but you can't see that much pulling the 4" x 6" access cover just back of the oil pan. With the cover off and engine running, the noise did seem to be louder than from up top.

    Get a "stethoscope" from like AutoZone / Car Parts place and move it around all over the engine - top and bottom - to see if you can hear the noise more in one location versus all others. You may find it that way and save yourself A LOT OF MONEY.

    My noise happened after sitting for awhile (2-3 weeks) and when I went to crank it up - it started very hard - almost like it would in a manual tranny with it in gear and clutch out. Thus some thinking it is either the started / flex plate that may have cracked, but "IF" the shop actually pulled the motor and checked it and not cracked / damaged - then maybe not the problem either.

    I don't have a Toyota Dealer close by, so would have to tow / drive it over 75 miles to the closest one and who knows what if anything they'd find either.
     
  18. Apr 1, 2019 at 10:26 AM
    #18
    super darrell

    super darrell New Member

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    Hey just wanted to jump in here I have the exact same problem. I have a 2002 Tundra 4.7. Truck wasn’t used all winter and was in storage. I changed the oil and started for the first time and I have a tapping/clicking/rubbing type sound like metal on metal with the engine running no matter if stopped it moving. The noise gets faster in time with rpm. At first thought i thought the starter gear was stuck but I’ve had that happen before and I think it was slightly different sound. After reading your horror post I’m slightly worried what a nightmare.
    This only happened yesterday and I havnt done too much digging. I will post back if I figure anything out.
     
  19. Apr 3, 2019 at 4:27 PM
    #19
    tlswift

    tlswift New Member

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    Sorry to hear that Darrell. Mine had set for quite awhile - few weeks. When I went to start it - it was almost like the auto trans was engaged - having owned a manual and the clutch was out and trying to start it. Kind of a jerk. That's when my nightmare started.

    You see part of the long list I had a mechanic check and it was everything all the Yota people on FB (so many good pages if you aren't on it - esp First Gen Tundra's) said to look at. I've driven it a fair amount since having it gone over and seems to be no power or other issues. Motor runs fine other than the loud ticking / tapping ALL the time. No idea what to look at next other than doing a good check of the exhaust from gasket and manifold back to the O2 and cats.

    Some have mentioned using something like SeaFoam (did that) to help possibly open and clogged ports / channels or even Marvel Mystery Oil, which is about like auto tranny fluid and twice the price. I'm swapping out my Power Steering Fluid the slow way and putting that into my crankcase - its not much, but may help.

    Otherwise I'm at a point to just sell it and move on to a newer Tundra (2nd / 3rd Gen - not new - can't afford one of those with the 5.7L that can be tuned) or a Tacoma, as I really don't need a full-size truck. Yet, Taco's are expensive as well - even for 2007 - 2014 models. Prefer to have 4WD since I live in the mountains of WNC now and it may come in handy WHEN it snows here.

    Let us know what you find out. I'd start with the exhaust manifold & gasket plus definitely check the Flexplate for cracks / damage. If it seemed like your starter hung, it could easily crack the flex plate from what I've been told. Hard to check too - as the access cover down on the bottom only gives you about a 4" view and you'll need to be able to turn manually with a breaker bar on the crank pulley up front or use a remote started to kick the motor over a few degrees and rechecking it.
     
  20. Apr 3, 2019 at 5:08 PM
    #20
    Professional Hand Model

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    Try some Liqui Molly. Then another quick sacrificial oil change. Your engine will quiet down for sure. I had that heat tick and its gone after the Liqui Molly flush treatment. Read the reviews if you don’t believe me.

    Also, I switched to Mobil1 Advance Full Synthetic and the detergent action really cleared out the sludge build up. I developed some weeping at the oil pan gasket, but that has slowed since another oil change to Mobil1 ‘Regular’ Synthetic. Next change will be to ‘High Mileage’ Synthetic to recondition the seals now that they are fully cleaned out from the prior detergents action.

    upload_2019-4-3_20-7-20.jpg
     
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  21. Apr 5, 2019 at 2:44 PM
    #21
    tlswift

    tlswift New Member

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    Worth a shot as I really don't want to sell the old girl - not after spending $3,100 for a shop to find nothing really wrong with it - although they seem to have done a thorough inspection from front to back and inside, including the flex plate and torque converter.

    Wonder if I can find the Liqui Moly locally. If not, easy enough to order off Amazon.

    EDIT: After looking at it, I had used Seafoam in it prior to taking it to the shop. It ran probably 20-30 miles with it in and up to them changing the oil and filter at the shop

    When I pulled the valve covers before - there was no sludge - just your normal slight brown coating as I've used Mobil 1 5W30 and high quality filters (Mobil 1, K&N, and Royal Purple) since I bought in back in 2012 with about 75k miles on it. Only has 131,250 after 7 years - so only added less than 60k in that time and 1,500 of that was moving from DFW, TX to Western North Carolina.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2019
  22. Apr 5, 2019 at 2:55 PM
    #22
    Professional Hand Model

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    Well then you shouldn’t have to do the Liqui Molly if there was no sludge. Still worth a shot. My PCV valve and covers had some (little) sludge when doing my gaskets.

    I did the liqui molly and its a 10 minute process. You could hear the engine quiet out during the idle time just like some of the reviewers suggested. I also made the switch over to full synthetic after years of ‘blended syn’. Maybe the culmination of doing everything helped as the random ‘heat tick’ (during long idle at a resting stop) disappeared.

    The engine is quieter than ever now. Only thing I hear with hood up are the fuel injectors soft rythmic clicks (normal) and the fan blowing.
     
  23. Jun 16, 2020 at 12:37 PM
    #23
    Daffy1019

    Daffy1019 New Member

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    It took me awhile to figure this ticking noise after taking out one (intake) camshaft. If you don't install a service screw into
    the exhaust camshaft gear before taking out either camshaft, then when you re-install the camshafts, you will get a ticking
    noise similar to a diesel sound when warmed up. If you missed this step then you have to take out the exhaust camshaft and
    move the thinner gear (under spring tension) to the hole where the service screw threads in. Service screw is 6 mm diameter x
    10 mm thread pitch. Then re-install cams, making sure you line up the marks on the gears. After torquing down the camshafts, remove
    the service bolt and finish the job. It should be quiet, because the thin gear takes out any slack in the gears, brilliant on Toyota's part.
     
  24. Jun 16, 2020 at 1:10 PM
    #24
    Professional Hand Model

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    Great info.
     
  25. Jul 9, 2020 at 10:59 AM
    #25
    Dcliffy

    Dcliffy New Member

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    Do you know if this would apply to a 2007 4.7? Had it in for timing belt/ water pump and now it makes the knocking noise. Dealer said engine needs replaced. Told them to put it back together and picked it up. Reading up on it now and see this reply. Could this be it?
     
  26. Jul 9, 2020 at 12:18 PM
    #26
    Hooptytrix

    Hooptytrix Squeaky Chicken

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    1st off there are a lot of tapping issues in this thread that can be completely unrelated which will lead you guys on a wild goose chase.
    Let's start with the original. I agree with checking on the timing belt. Having everything where Toyopet said to have it is very important, they can be finicky at times.
    Next up, check your vacuum hoses. Especially on driver's side of the engine bay. The charcoal canister is on that side for some of you. There are a few hoses on that side when disconnected or leaking can make a pronounced tapping sound. And of course, is there a CEL light?
     
  27. Jul 9, 2020 at 7:34 PM
    #27
    Daffy1019

    Daffy1019 New Member

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    Hi dcliffy,
    If the people that worked on you Tundra didn't remove the valve covers, then that would not be your source of the noise.
    If you did not have the ticking noise before the dealer worked on it, and now you do, then that is caused by the dealer? The
    dealer should be fixing it.
     
  28. Aug 8, 2022 at 1:19 PM
    #28
    Dusty Rusty

    Dusty Rusty New Member

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    Daffy1019 saved my bacon! I did a timing belt and cam seals. After the job was done the engine was clattering like the valves were out of spec. After checking valve clearance with no issue I had to hit the internet to figure it out. I read your post and went in to check the cam, sure enough it wasn't clocked correctly. I fixed that and now she purrs. Thanks man!
     
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