Multiple misfires after rebuild ** FIXED **

I did that. I rented a vacuum pump and pressure gauges. I vacuumed it all out and added the Freon but the compressor never turned on.

 

So now I am concerned about engine knock. Check out the video of my engine running. Does it sound like it is knocking to you?

https://youtu.be/v2iCx2VP1B8

 

Definitely got some gremlin action going on. Can't offer much but since work has been done in some of these areas, I'd check that the magnetic clutch is plugged in good, ground at compressor is solid. I'd also ask does your heater work ?
The reason being, believe it or not, we have to have heater relay and other components to even supply voltage to the magnetic clutch.



Since it's finally raining, I'm doing couch surfing and this was a guy with 2015 Tundra where he was showing the relay he changed to fix his AC.
Don't teach this lack of maintenance to your kids

 

Yes. The heater works. Admittedly I live in Texas so it is 10,000 degrees out so it’s hard to tell, but it seems to get hotter as I turn it on.

 

The fact this is jumping around all over the place is making my head spin.

It's also leading me to wonder: Could this be a rodent issue also, like this guy?

And the fact you live in TX, knowing what I saw from my few years in DFW area, and my whole life visiting family in SATX, there was no shortage of mice.

I'm just trying to figure out where they'd need to get into to cause all this nonsense. Have you seen any evidence of droppings in your floorboards, in the vents, lift out the air filter and look under it, etc?

 

No, it is not a mouse issue. The engine harness showed no evidence of damage.

 

I was thinking more up in the dash, like the guy whose thread I linked to.

I know you've had the ECU out, so I presume you might've seen it, but OP on that thread wasn't super descriptive about location. Probably b/c it wasn't him doing the work.

 

So I just swapped out the VSS and it didn’t fix the issue. I am almost positive that my issues involve the wiring harness. I will get the new one on Monday. I guess I should start taking this one off.

 

And another thing, my truck feels completely gutless. It feels like I am driving my wife’s crv. Could that be caused by the VSS and knock sensor issues?

 

Yes.

Retards timing when no/bad knock signal. That means less power.

 

Great to know. Hopefully the new harness will fix all the issues.

 

Just to keep you all updated, I removed the intake manifold and everything with it to get the wiring harness off. I have it completely disconnected but I have not fully removed it from the truck. The new one is coming today. I did find a vacuum line that had a tear in it. I am not sure what it goes to, does anyone know where in the FSM it shows the vacuum diagrams? I can't seem to find the section that it is listed. Thanks.

 

Here is the hose: (is it part of the EVAP system?)

 

It is indeed and the right end should go over to the driver side charcoal cannister.

 

Thanks! Can I just use regular vacuum hose to replace the line?

 

Another issue, this is totally on me. I was removing the wiring harness and broke the grounding bolt off, highlighted in yellow. My plan is to ground the plug to the connector in red. Do you see any issues with doing this?

 

Or should I ground it to the crossover tube?

 

If it was originally grounded to the block, then ground it to the block.

As long as the bolt you want to use is a bolt, and not a plug ( ), and the stretch to reach it won't put the harness branch in peril, you should be good to go. Note the other ground just to the right in that pic, maybe another possible option.

Also, I assume you still have the other ground from block to firewall intact, yes? That would've been one of the things that could've caused your issues, but someone requested checking that much earlier in the thread.

(wish my engine bay looked this good... look at that brake fluid!!)

 

Yes, it is still connected to the firewall.

 

Depending on how dumb the ECU program is, it may rely more on MAF air measurement than on feedback loop from upstream H2OS. In such case the real AFR can be lean, however the ECU won't respond to it. So, yes, any vacuum leaks you accidentally introduced during the rebuild may cause a bad idling, as the head sucks unmeasured air. When the engine works harder, it consumes lot more measured air than adds up from the leak, so the engine runs smoother. The theory lines up well with your observation.

First thing to check is the short and long fuel trims. STFT should oscillate around .98-1.02, LTFT ideally be 0.

 

On to the next thing… how do I change out the knock sensor and starter connectors? They are all broken. They go on but the locking part is broken.

 

Something like this.

$8 kweiny Auto Terminals Removal Key Tool Electrical Wiring Connector Release Pin(11 Pieces No Duplicate)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078R21FGL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

And then order new plug ends, I would recommend Ebay for those.

 

It looks like I can just get a new harness. Anyone know where I can find the part number for it?

 

You should be able to buy just the connector housings from Toyota. The factory service manual will have the part numbers for the housings, or you could order them over the counter at a dealership. You will need to de-pin the old connector (videos on youtube show how to do it) and push the pins into the new one. I had to do this when I added power windows to my 2006. The housings will cost about $10 each.

 

I mean, I could dig in the exploded diagrams at parts.toyota.com but most base harnesses run in the $100-800 range. Depends on which it is.

Many times the harness will have its part number on a white piece of plastic/fiber/paper physically, like this one for the tow pkg harness on my '06. Placement seems to be random. If you can't find something like this, LMK and I can do my best to find the harness if you have no luck. I need to know roundabout which it is though.

 

I have a new wiring harness. I am just going to get a couple connectors and use my existing harness. Thanks.

 

Got it. Ballpark exploded diagrams for your truck are here: https://parts.toyota.com/Toyota_2002_Tundra-Access-Cab-Limited-47L-AT-4WD.html

Here's the wiring and clamp section: https://parts.toyota.com/a/Toyota_2..._52016_6711566/WIRING--CLAMP/841420-8202.html

I really expected to find a grid of all the possible connections in the "Wiring & Clamp" section but ... it only shows lighting connectors. Bummer.

 

What kind of tape is used on the wiring? Regular electric tape seems very greasy and the stock tape doesn’t seem like it is. What should I wrap the wires in?

 

Tesa tape is what I use almost exclusively for harness wrapping, prior to putting in loom.

 

And what do you use on the loom? Regular electric tape?