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Driveshaft Center support bearing

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Beefnbread, Jun 14, 2022.

  1. Jun 19, 2022 at 3:23 PM
    #31
    Beefnbread

    Beefnbread [OP] Electric Soup

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    Yeah, the new one still has slop in it. In the old one, the rubber was just starting to become brittle and you couldn’t really say there could be anything wrong by just looking at it.

    After I took it off, the metal bearing was splitting in pieces and the rubber is sagged down from the weight of the driveshaft. Hard to tell it’s condition just by looking at it or feeling for slop.
     
    FrenchToasty[QUOTED] likes this.
  2. Jun 19, 2022 at 3:32 PM
    #32
    Beefnbread

    Beefnbread [OP] Electric Soup

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    Hey, @shifty`
    Are you saying only the 2wd Tundras don’t have zerks? I’m 4x4 and I spent a good amount of time looking where to grease my slip yolk, but not really sure where to grease it.
     
  3. Jun 19, 2022 at 3:35 PM
    #33
    alb1k

    alb1k Always Coming From Take Me Down

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    It's good
    Mine were sealed until replaced. I should say u-joints, but the drive shaft doesn't have a zerk.
     
  4. Jun 19, 2022 at 8:11 PM
    #34
    NickB_01TRD

    NickB_01TRD You don't need less cars, just more driveway.

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    Yeah 4wd has zerks 2wd doesn't. If I remember right all grease zerks should face the same direction and you of course want them all facing down.
     
  5. Jun 20, 2022 at 7:16 AM
    #35
    shifty`

    shifty` Our private little trip to hell

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    (see signature for truck info)
    Nick already confirmed, but yeah ... unless 2WD owners replaced with a greaseable unit, no zerks on 2WD driveline.

    If you're 4WD, see this for zerk locations. (B) is your slip yolk IIRC. Note the instructions about pump-and-bumper-jump. I swear mine had never been lubed in its 65k(ish) miles, and it took what I felt was a significant amount before I saw anything flow out of the zerk when releasing pressure.

    Also, see this note about the grease gun tip that seems to do a good job latching onto the front (A) zerks.
     
  6. Jun 20, 2022 at 7:25 PM
    #36
    Beefnbread

    Beefnbread [OP] Electric Soup

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    So regarding the driveshaft alignment...
    I painted off where I needed to place it, but now upon further analyzation the zerks and those flat pieces of metal don’t line up with each other? Was it not aligned correctly at first?
    Right now I moved it to having all the zerks facing the same way. No sweat If I need to move it again.
    Edit: I’m taking it out for a spin and I can’t tell a difference really. seems the same
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2022
  7. Jul 5, 2022 at 6:03 AM
    #37
    Teutonics

    Teutonics New Member

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    I just did this job yesterday. It took me a couple hours start to finish working slow and methodically in my driveway. Figuring out how to torque the flange nut took longer than it should have (see below). To add some additional notes for future reference, this was for my 2005 DC 4wd:

    • I bought the Spicer bearing 5002007 which was a perfect fit and replacement. This is the bearing that has the inner and outer seals for the 4wd. Purchased from Walmart (of all places they had the best price, online order) for $75 a couple months ago, looks like it's gone up $15 since then. :-(
    • I dropped only the front section of the driveshaft (forward of the cardan joint) instead of the whole driveshaft. Much easier to handle and fewer bolts to have to undo/remove (and they were a PITA). In hindsight I might have been able to replace the bearing without completely removing the front section (i.e. only disconnect at the cardan)... it might have been a little more challenging having to work under the truck, but the effort to remove the front bolts may have been an even wash.
    • Torqueing the flange nut to 130# was a pain. I had to bolt the shaft to a section of angle iron to get enough leverage to torque it completely.
    • Greasing the ujoints and cardan while disconnected was quite a bit easier. (not that it's terribly difficult while assembled though).
    • The bolts appeared to have been installed with lock-tite (green?). I did not use any on reassembly as there is none specified (that I saw) in the manual.
    • There's no way to use a torque wrench during reassembly, even though there's a torque specification. :-/
     
    Beefnbread[OP] likes this.
  8. Jul 5, 2022 at 7:29 AM
    #38
    shifty`

    shifty` Our private little trip to hell

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    Be careful. WallyMart has become the latest place for counterfeiters to sell their wares. Just like Sears, NewEgg, scAmazon, and others, WallyMart has opened their storefront to allow any registered vendor to sell and ship to you. Seems the typical twats that would be selling bogus parts on scAmazon are now hip to this and marketing there. Be sure to pay attention to who is fulfilling the sale, and where it's shipping from. I limit my purchases to stuff that's listed as "local delivery available" because that's part of the in-store inventory.

    It's such BS we have to deal with this crap. But this is, apparently, the new, adapted "department store" model scAmazon has inspired across the internet. They're turning every department store/big box store into a damn flea market, rife with knockoffs.
     
    Beefnbread[OP] likes this.
  9. Jul 5, 2022 at 3:09 PM
    #39
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Remote start alarm Removed keyless entry piezo Qi phone charger & dash mount Subaru underseat subwoofer Hopkins Easylift Steering wheel audio controls No-tenna mod 3/4 adhesive anti-rattle shim D/S door
    Yep.

    I find it easier to limit search results to wallymart.com as the seller.
     

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