2006 Tundra/Sequoia Camshaft seals

Shifty or Evil,

Update on my progress, RH bank is done, however I have a confession to make. I did not separate the plug from the front bearing cap and I seal packed it as one unit when re-installing .. it seemed the plug and bearing were bonded together fairly well.....

In hindsight, I should have separated them and seal packed each separately and installed them. Is there a need to re-do this.....don't want it to be a source of potential oil leak.....

With regards to the LH bank, I did separate the front bearing cap and plug. I will RTV them separately when installing. I am having a little trouble with this side getting the intake camshaft fully seated. Seems like their are some buckets pushing on the lobes to keep from 100% dropping in. Here again, maybe it will drop into place as I torque down the bolts. Exhaust camshaft is fully seated, but intake is about 90% seated.

Crank shaft seal has been installed....I started the new crank seal by hand, then put old seal against, then put the crank timing gear on backwards, then put crank pulley, then installed bolt. By tightening the bolt, it drove and seated my new seal.....my homemade seal driver kit......actually read about on another thread somewhere.....it worked well....

Any suggestions for getting this LH bank intake camshaft to drop in fully ?

Thanks in advance.

 

On one of my cars that has a lot of varnish I’ve been doing seafoam treatments before oil changes and getting good amounts of crud out of it.

 

If you haven't buttoned it all back up yet, I would take the front cap off and reseal that plug. The sealant is meant to prevent oil from leaking and you've disturbed it. I might be fine though if it was solid. You could always keep an eye on it. The cam seal is the usual culprit.

I got a PVC pipe coupler to put my crank seal in, but yours was cheaper (by ~$2.00, lol).

Did your cam slip backwards before removing them? I know my LH (drivers) side wanted to slip, and I can't remember if I just let it and moved it back, or didn't. Either way, it was under a bit of tension, I do remember that. My advice would just be to mirror it as best you can putting it back together. That 0˚ or 10˚ does matter, as does the single vs double dot that I mentioned before. Again, when you're all buttoned back up with the TB back on, turn the crank by hand and you'll know if you're good to proceed.

 

I have not buttoned it back up....to redo that plug....do I have to back off all 22 bolts and retorque as the front bearing is the first to torque down or can I just remove front bearing cap, re RTV plug and cap and torque back down...Would I be good to go ?

Still messing with LH bank intake camshaft. I believe I am good enough (90% seated ) where I can torque down in sequence and it should fall into place. 2-dot marks are lined up on install. The issue is the buckets I2 & I5 are hitting slightly to prevent cam from falling 100% into position. As I said, torque in sequence should take care of the rest.....I would know when I go to remove the service bolt, then turn the cams to where the 1-dot marks line up..

At TDC both the LH & RH bank cam's 1-dot marks should line up on the driven gears of the cams.

Thanks for your reply above....

 

I would think you're good with just front cap. The cam isn't moving and the gears are locked in place.

 

Update...will be finished tomorrow, LH bank intake camshafts fully seated as I torque the bearing caps in sequence. Remove service bolt & turn camshafts back to 1-dot mark. Proceeded to put timing belt back on. Move crank back to the "ATDC" mark ( which is the white dot on Crank cover ) and camshaft pulley timing marks were on the "T" mark.....made sure all marks on belt line up as they should "R Cam", "L Cam", "Crank" .....also the belt has side marks on it for timing gear mark, timing gear bolt hole, and the keyway".....pretty hard to screw it up with all marks on belt......line it all up and pull tensioner pin......good to go.....time to button it up tomorrow.

 

Reassembly went fine....except I have a slight space between RH No 1 Timing belt Rear Plate and RH No 3 Timing Belt Cover....it seems the long stud bolt or acorn nut is drawing the rear plate back further than it needs to be....I did not do anything different....same approx torque......odd and something I can live with for now.....any ideas as to what is causing the slight opening.....DOnt want dirt and grime to be entering timing belt cavity.....other than that ....everything went fine.....few more hours and I will go for start.....

 

Looks like maybe that back plate isn't seated correctly? Seems a couple mm off. The plate should be under the front bearing cap.

 

I believe it should butt up to the edge of the front bearing cap....except mine is sitting back a mm or two......definitely not tearing down all the way to correct but will take off the RH No2 & No3 and have a look again....

 

I have done timing belts to this vehicle before but this time was one step further with removal of camshafts....just hope it isn't the head gaskets....then that step is one step even further...

So recap....new camshaft seals and crank seal....all timing belt parts (water pump, belt, pulleys, tensioners ) were not replaced as they only have 40k miles on them.....these parts were changed at 120k....car currently has 162K


Ah...the sweet sound of success....on start...no sound of valves banging into pistons....

Big shout out of Thanks to EvilMilkShake and Shifty for their guidance along the way......

 

By all means, thanks @EvilMilkshake because I didn't really do a hell of a lot here

And honestly, thank you for posting your experience on here. Never know who it'll help out later.

 

Forums are a great learning tool for us shade tree mechanics....

 

Dropping a comment here so I can refer back to this later….I aligned everything to 0° with the mark on the harmonic balancer, had my notches on the cams to the I and not the T like Timmy the toolmans video said to do, Chuck on the crankshaft was at 50° ATDC pointing at the pulley just above to the right(drivers side) and when removing the passenger side camshaft (my single dots were lined up, the intake and exhaust sprockets spun away from each other probably 5-6 teeth….everything came out fine (I did put the service bolt in.) I have everything cleaned up, replaced cam seal on that side but both sides need to be replaced. When I went to put the service bolt on the driver side exhaust cam it’s lined up on double dots and no service bolt hole is visible….my question is should I reinstall it the TB after the passenger side camshaft goes back in and rotate it to where I have single dots on both sides? Then remove TB and replace driver side cam seal? Or is it safe to turn the drivers side cam by itself to where single dots are lined up and remove?

 

Brand new member here who is really appreciating this post. My 06 2uz vvti needs new camshaft oil seals. Can’t afford what the shop is asking, so planning to tackle it in the driveway. I’ve been reading and watching everything I can find and this post gets close to my questions, but really want to confirm a few things before starting if possible. If anyone is still following this post, sure appreciate your help with these questions.

1) before pulling timing belt, everything I see says to hit TDC than adjust to 50deg ATDC which relieves load on the cams. Once at ATDC is it safe to spin intake and exhaust cams as needed (rh and lh) to line up the service bolt and then reinstall and align timing marks on the gears? Seems the LH side in particular needs to be moved to access the service bolt?

2) Was planning to use MPgrease on the tubes before pushing on the new seals but had same concerns I see mentioned here. Any issues not lubing the tubes for anyone?

3) Any tips for seal packing the bearing caps to avoid squeeze out in the grooves?

Thanks a bunch and appreciate any advice you may have for this job.

 

I have advice on how to avoid the job.

ATP's

$19 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 stopped my cam leak on bank 1. And it hasn't come back in like 2 years now, with a few thousand miles in between (I don't drive a ton, which makes the issue worse). Took 100-200 miles of driving after adding a full bottle. I don't do "fix in a bottle" crap, but the more I read on it, I realized it's not a "fix in a bottle" type of product, it's more of a routine maintenance type of item akin to putting moisturizer on skin, but for gaskets and seals - it rejuvenates what's there.

 

Thanks Shifty. Any concern about continuing to drive with that leak near the TB? Out of curiosity, is it ok to spin the cams once at ATDC?