2007-2020 Transfer Case Actuator

Dropping this here so I don’t lose this thread. Is there a way to bookmark a thread? Either way, my 4wd is being finicky. Still engages but sometimes takes a while and I feel like I may need this before too long. Thanks to all for the write ups on this

 

Just bookmark it on your browser

 

Does anyone have a valid part number for a replacement motor? I ordered the Ebay/Amazon motor, but was a bit too large. That was the RS550 12VDC motor body. I have not found any with the same dimensions as others have stated they have found. Thank you

 

I messed with this today. Testing the resistance on that microswitch I got a reading of 0 Ohms. I put the actuator back together and still get the failure to engage 4hi. The transfer case engages but the front diff doesn’t make an attempt to engage. Previously I tested the front actuator motor and it spins freely so something is preventing it from getting power. Back to the drawing board…

 

A friend shared this document with me and I thought someone here might find it helpful. I might need to recruit help from a friend on how to work with it..

 

The microswitch, someone please help me. My 4hi hasn't been engaging, I thought it was the actuator differential switch, toward the front of the Tundra (I took it to Toyota dealership and they replaced it). But it was still not engaging, so I took off the 4hi actuator motor and tried to realign the gear and ended up breaking the mircoswitch. Is there a way to replace the microswitch? Can I get a new 4hi actuator motor?

 

Oh no! I don't know for sure, but I think the only way to get a new actuator motor is to buy an entire transfer case actuator from a junkyard and salvage the part you need.

In the photo, are your gears aligned how they were removed? If so, I did not set mine correctly...

 

I took my Tundra to the dealer to see if they could diagnose the problem any further than I already have. Their systems don't go any more in depth than "replace actuator/transfer case" so they were not able to tell me anything I didn't already know. I'm probably going to look for a used transfer case to swap in to my truck. Does anyone know if the 4.6 and 5.7 transfer cases are the same? If I can't get this solved I'll might just sell the truck while used values are inflated.

 

My truck has been very sluggish to switch in and out of 4-hi recently. This weekend, I put it into 4 hi, and then when I tried to take it out, the 4hi light flashed, and it stayed engaged while I drove for a day. The next day it was still flashing, but I could feel that it wasn't engaged anymore, and then by the end of the day, the 4hi light stopped flashing. This seems pretty consistent with a sluggish or cruddy 4hi actuator motor, so I think I'll tackle this fix today.

My concern is about the codes that seem to disable some people's trucks, and the realignment issue. Is it possible to take the 4-hi cover off without letting the gears fall out of place? If you do, will the gears still be in the correct spot and you can just put it back in place after cleaning it up? I wonder if I can get a pallet knife in there to hold the gears in place before I lift the cover off.

Would it make sense to take the negative lead off the battery before doing this work, to prevent the truck from throwing codes while the transfer case is disconnected from the wiring harness? I don't have a scanner to reset codes, so I'd like to avoid that step if possible. Any ideas?

Thanks, Nate

 

Jezus, those 5 machine screws on the top of the actuator box are all rusted - I'm not sure I've got enough room to get those worked out. Certainly can't get a drill in there to drill the heads off, or use an extractor.

Dang.

 

If this is your first time taking the actuator apart, I highly doubt you’d be able to get the 4Hi cover off without dropping the gears. I also never got any codes by unplugging the actuator without first disconnecting the battery and I’ve messed with it half a dozen times

 

Hi all, great info here and thanks in advance for any help. I have a 2017 Sequoia. Would a 2017 Sequoia have the same 4WD components including the transfer case actuator as the OP?

Mine is not going into 4WD; the 4HI light in dash is blinking continuously, and the VSC light is on all the time. When turning the ignition to on (but not yet starting) then crawling under the truck I hear a beeping that sounds like it's from the front differential actuator and sounds like a very quiet humming but I can't tell where the humming noise is coming from.

Does the beeping (from the front differential actuator) and humming mean the transfer case actuator is working and the problem is instead with the front differential actuator?

 

Anyone have any input on the beeping noise from the front differential actuator?

 

I used a Dremel Tool with a cutoff wheel (not the thin wheel they broke) and cut under the screw head. Could not get to the top back screw so I had to break the top off. (Epoxy it back together later) Also the top motor was frozen so I used Liquid Wrench penetrating oil and worked it loose. One thing I saw is you have to be real careful pulling the gears out because you can break the micro sw which I did but I glued it back together and it works. The way I looked at it was my 4WD was broke and I had nothing to lose by going this route. I put everything back together and my 4WD works better than when I bought it 5 years ago. It's a 2008 Tundra.

 

Does anyone have any information on where a guy can get the microswitches from? The ones inside the actuator housing. Or does anyone have any extra parts laying around that would have one in it they would be willing to sell? Bangin my head trying to find parts. Thanks in advance.

 

Sooooo thankful for this post and Sixweeds for taking the time and effort to post this.

My 2011 CrewMax was intermittently failing to switch into 4-Hi recently. I pulled my 4-Hi actuator housing and found everything to be in pretty good shape. Not sure why it wasn't working. Contacts on the motor were good and there did not appear to be any damage from water getting into the housing. I cleaned it up and put fresh lithium grease into on the gears and stuff, reassembled, and took it out for a test drive. . . . .still not working. Took apart again and made the following changes and everything worked!

1. On mine, with the rod mentioned in step #10 being pushed all the way "in," only about 14 teeth were visible. I actually pulled it out slightly until 17-18 teeth were visible.

2. I aligned the spring tabs a little differently than described in step #14. I aligned them on the three visible dots/squares closer to the 2 o'clock position.

Here is a picture for reference:


3. There was a crack in the vacuum line, so I trimmed the cracked portion off.

I reassembled everything and it worked! It also seems to transfer into 4-Hi and 4-Lo faster now as well. I hope the helps someone else complete this repair and saves them money.

 

Thread revival- does anyone have a source for the transfer actuator motor? Mine is rusted solid. Thanks for any info.

 

Awesome! I’m glad someone had success. I’m still 2wd only over here.

Best bet will probably be to pull it from a junked transfer case

 

Searching for a source for a replacement shift motor- mine is frozen/rusted solid. They have to be out there somewhere...

 

Rockauto sells the Aisin brand transfer case actuator. About $575

But that is the whole thing. Not just the motors.

 

Rockauto doesn't have the transfer case actuator, just the front axle one- but I know where to get the whole unit. Hoping to find a source for the motor itself. I recall seeing a post that mentioned what model/code # the motor was, but now I can't find it.

 

You could likely find an entire transfer case for the same price from a wrecked truck and avoid cracking open the case. Just remove and replace the entire case. That's my plan

 

Yep but I have removed the top end of the Actuator and removed the seized motor. Hoping to find the motor itself somehow, quick and way cheaper and easier fix. If I can find the motor it's a half hour fix.

 

I was quoted 3900 from my dealer. They said it needs trans ECM too. I removed the shields when I crawled under to take a look. I was able to get two screws loose on the top actuator cover. The last three were tough to find. I called it a day. I went under it this weekend while it was at the dealer on the lift. Mechanic was right there explaining how they work. I can see the last three screws are accessible but I'll be going by feel while working on my back. The mechanic recommended a garage that might want to give it a try (motor repair). So far no one has quoted replacing the actuator against Toyota for me. I have concerns if the garage does this. Once it's cracked open the switches are delicate. A screwdriver or putty knife is a good idea but you would have to be careful of the removal. I guess if water got in there (and I think it did 2008 model and vent tube is cracked right at the connection) the switches could be rusted and toast.

I really want to fix my truck. I trust the dealer to do it right. I'm not sure how much cheaper another garage would be. It would be so great to get the motor working. I was quoted $560 for the ECM portion so if I fix the motor I would still need this according to the dealer.

Anyone go through this repair recently?

 

Joining in the GoodTimes here!!! @sixweeds your the MAN!! great writeup and continued topic. Hope this resolves my issue.

I actually was out camping in middle no where death valley when mine failed. Nit even cell service to fall back on. Like the old days.
Pulling camp... Shifted out of 4L, then out of 4H, drove 1/2 mile with no issues then stopped. Restarted to drive off, threw it in drive and nothing- no driveline movement. Dash was a xmas tree of lights (4wHi/Low alternate flashing, ABS, check engine, +). trans was engaged and i could hear shifting gears when slap shifting. 4wd switch did nothing. Park was even not working- was in neutral full time and nothing would engage. Only action was a horrific grinding noise when putting shifter back into park.
Followed ABS wormhole for a bit, as i had issues with the light prior (from a heavy slush snow event earlier this winter) that my reader was showing as a L Rear Wheel Sensor. I had already changed out the sensor, and all my rear ABS wiring a couple months before and it didn't fix anything, still was getting ABS light flashing on dash but was able to engage 4wd if i reset the ABS using the dash OBDII port jumper cable reset sequence.
Funny thing is i could now not reset the ABS with the jumper wire on the OBDII...... and i found BOTH ABS fuses (40A and 50A) Low Profile Maxi Fuses in the Engine Bay Fuse Block blown?

$8 Bussmann BP/FMX-50LP-RP 50 Amp Low Profile ATM Female Maxi Fuse

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002E2MQHC?ie=UTF8 So i chased that a bit thinking it progressed.
Then i put it together, after a couple PaleAles, that my t-case was the culprit. First found the vent tube- it was connected still but COMPLETELY weathered and split, doing nothing for a seal. I actually figured it was a vacuum line. So i trimmed it and reinstalled it- no changes, not a surprise as i now know its a vent not vacuum.
Pulled the rear lower cover looking for a shift pin! Found one!!!! it was all the way out- so i pushed it in and put the cover back on, leaving it unplugged from electronics. Started the rig, put it in park and its held, put it in gear and my driveline engaged.... wooooo!!! It was even in 2wd, not 4L! Drove home 100miles and here we are. Found all the good info and I feel the issue is likely that upper motor failure due to moisture.
anyone have an opinion on anything ive described so far??

@OffshoreOffroad this is all the info i could source on a motor. Found on YouTube videos.
One motor part number is RS-455PB-3050 another is Mabuchi RS-555PC-3550 both off of eBay?

I just ordered a complete actuator -Aisin for ~$600 shipped/tax. figure it gets me a couple motors, covers, and them lil switches if needed. https://www.sixityauto.com/aisin-tr...-toyota-tundra-motor-gear-box-2092004577.html

Ill post up my results once i gets into it-- mid-May. gotta wait for all the parts, and now for it to stop snowing??? in April instead of Winter

 

ok,
reading everything....
4hi flashes soon as the key is in the on position. no matter what or how i drive it. No noise of the actuators trying to work at all.
I had it working as sometimes last week.
no codes of any kind using a fancy snap on scanner. no fuses blown. no wires worn. clean ass truck with 60K
Bench tested the 4hi actuator and alignment as sixweeds did. I even used the floss trick with great success on the second install just to double check.
I pushed the 4 hi rod in all the way before I installed the actuator.
I bench tested the ADD actuator, it works fine- no change 4hi - just flashes 100% of the time

The front ADD actuator beeps when the key is in the on position.
I have searched and searched and cant not find why it making this beeping noise! any thoughts?
I just printed out the 4x4 flow chart from earlier in this thread and will try that.
Thanks guys.

 

ok
The Toyota Tundra ADD front 4x4 actuator will beep if it has a fault internally.
The issue was a magnet came off the wall of the housing.
It worked on the bench so I thought it was fine.
I got a new actuator installed and 4 hi light went off!!!
.......................nice..........................................
I tried to activate 4x4 and heard the 4hi differential actuator make noise then 4 hi started flashing again!
.......................bummer....................................
So for the hell of it I tried the alignment suggested by VAPORS above in this post.
worked! No sure why but don't care.

 

same boat different waters. backstory, removed transfer case to replace leaking seal in adapter housing; broke the vent tube and electrical connection on top of the actuator housing. purchased new actuator to replace ONLY the top "hat". I did not and have not opened the lower "hat".

when I started the process the vehicle was in 2wd/park. I made note of where the "rod" was in the top. it appeared to be all the way in. Ive attempted to time the gears as described in"sixweeds" excellent description. I also tried plugging it in but not attached actuator body and turned the key on the cycle the gears to preset. they preset to exactly as six weeds described. still getting "slow" flashing 4hi. additionally, it grinds when I try put it in park. when I switch to l 4lo it lights up like a Christmas tree! it resets when I turn it off.

when I bought the new actuator I checked the position of everything. the "rod" had 4 teeth exposed on the right side of the shaft. the original position of the rod in 2wd/parked showed 1 tooth exposed.

Does anyone know if a new actuator comes pre-positioned for 2wd/park position?
does the transfer case have to go back in on exactly the same splines it was originally meshed with? I wouldn't think so but I don't know.

ill try repositioning the rod tomorrow to show 4 teeth exposed to the right of the shaft.

Ill update as I school through this. any input is welcome.

The dental floss trick is genius, thanks "sixweeds"!!

Thanks,
Steve

 

Hey "vapors"! when you readjusted the actuator rod and sensors did you have the vehicle in "park" or "Neutral"?

Thanks,
Steve

 

SUCCESS, SUCCESS, SUCCESS!! I tired the other r timing methods without any luck. I tried "v@pors" clocking position and it worked!!! Thank you "V@pors", "sixweeds" and anyone else that offered input in this thread.

Hey "warboy1" I have a microswitch if you still need one.