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2006 SR5 4x4 Double Cab Fixer Upper

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by bamdone, Jun 20, 2022.

  1. Jun 27, 2022 at 2:44 AM
    #31
    w666

    w666 D. None of the above

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    Hmmm...you appear to have new Bell Cranks (Parking Brake actuators). Someone must have started the job then left it incomplete. Regarding the leaky diff, cleaning/POR 15 as suggested will get you a long way down the road. But please change the breather valve ASAP.
     
  2. Jun 29, 2022 at 7:20 AM
    #32
    bamdone

    bamdone [OP] New Member

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    Dayton, OH
    Vehicle:
    06 Salsa Red Pearl SR5 DC 4x4
    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    That was a quick job! Had to break out the breaker bar to actually remove it.

    While I was at it, I finished the parking brake cable. Sorry to say, but I had to use a zip tie to mount the cable to the frame by the fuel tank. The bolt snapped and the only way to fix this is to remove the fuel tank. I just don’t have time to do that. Once I start that job, I know I’ll be buying and reinforcing frame parts. Maybe a job for the winter in my garage.

    This job involved yet another rust shower. But, I’m happy that I have a working parking brake again!


     
    w666[QUOTED] and alb1k like this.
  3. Jun 29, 2022 at 8:40 AM
    #33
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    If it works, it works, roll with it! Looking better already. Nice to see that clean breather up top too.

    Those OEM parking brake assembly part numbers were correct and worked without any issues?
     
  4. Jun 29, 2022 at 9:10 AM
    #34
    bamdone

    bamdone [OP] New Member

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    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    Yeah, went with the dealer part numbers you sent me. They were the right parts! Thank you again for your help!

    Next step, mid July timing belt & water pump job. I’ll be custom machining a door support for the door check. I will also observe the oil level of the differential. I don’t think it’s actually leaking since I haven’t seen a drop of oil on the cardboard yet. If it’s a slow leak 3-4 drops a month, some POR-15 all over the cover might be enough to hold it off until I find a replacement rear-end.
     
    shifty`[QUOTED] likes this.
  5. Jun 29, 2022 at 9:40 AM
    #35
    w666

    w666 D. None of the above

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    I recommend that you hit all the visible rust with a wire wheel, then treat it with a Rust Converter (Corroseal, Loctite, Ospho, et al). It's a miserable job, so do small sections at a time, wear a respirator (yay COVID...now N95 masks are cheap and plentiful!), Come back again to do more. (Rinse, lather, repeat). After that apply a rust encapsulating paint system (I prefer Eastwood Rust Encapsulator, others favor POR15. I'm not sure that ordinary Rustoleum is up to the task). Eastwood also has an Internal Frame Coating product that will help prevent the frame from rusting from the inside-out. (Well, delay is probably a better word that prevent...once rust begins its very difficult to stop it.). A couple times every year (when it's warm) I crawl underneath to inspect, and re-treat any areas that need it. Some swear by Fluid Film to protect the frame, but only after you've more or less got the rust under control (surface coatings won't stop the rust, rather they help retard the effect of road salt and other corrosives). Another former member (who maybe can be found on another site) would rub moly grease into all the crevices to keep water out. The frame stiffener (inside the frame by the front spring mount) is a great place for this!

    Once you get on top of it it's easy (relatively) to maintain. The only thing that can kill a Toyota is rust!

    https://www.eastwood.com/paints.html?cat=26
     
    bamdone[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 29, 2022 at 5:22 PM
    #36
    bamdone

    bamdone [OP] New Member

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    06 Salsa Red Pearl SR5 DC 4x4
    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    Well, I opened up my timing cover and good news! :yay: the timing belt looks like it isn’t that old. I’ll keep an eye on it every oil change and if it looks like it’s cracking, I’ll replace it or schedule it to be done.


    I think I’ll prioritize the rear differential leak and some of the smaller items for now. This will give me some time to get the materials for coating and painting and frame and underbody before the winter. My father-in-law told me I should just relocate the breather and see if that fixes the “leak.” He said the oil splatter looked like it was coming from the breather not from the cover or pinion seal. I think he’s right and it’s a cheap thing to do. I already have a breather so now it’s time to buy some fuel line and some clamps. Should be good with maybe an hour of work.
     
    shifty` likes this.
  7. Jul 4, 2022 at 2:34 AM
    #37
    bamdone

    bamdone [OP] New Member

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    Dayton, OH
    Vehicle:
    06 Salsa Red Pearl SR5 DC 4x4
    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    Yesterday I relocated the differential breather location. I began by taking the two screws holding the left rear tail light out (10mm socket) and then pulling on the light. It’s held in with some tabs.


    Next, I fished the tube through the hole down to the ground and used some aluminum bailing wire to make the blow off valve stay up high.

    I have clamps coming next week and a nut riveting tool to make it much cleaner. But, I wanted to just test a theory if the breather was the source of my differential leak. Note that these photos aren’t going to be the final product.


    Once I had it hanging, I routed the tube along the frame with the lighting harness for the rear of the vehicle. The tube was then dropped by the differential where I installed the nipple for the tube.


    I must have taken a photo before the clamps. But, there’s a clamp on the tube. Again, my riveting tool, rivet nuts, and hose clamps, will make this job much more professional. But, this was to test if the leak was coming from the vent.

    I drove the truck around to do errands instead of my fuel efficient car. After I got home, no leak was found. This makes me think I don’t have a differential leaking or a bad cover. It must have been a stuck open vent valve. It would also explain why oil was more concentrated on the left side of the diff cover instead of on both sides. But, the diff cover could have had a leak on the left too.

    I’ll continue to drive the truck all week. If it’s the cover, I will see a leak on the ground by the center of the truck. If it’s the valve, there will be a leak by the rear left tail light.

    To do this job you need a 10mm socket for the tail light, a 12mm deep socket for the new nipple, a 14mm deep socket to remove the old breather, a 14wrench is optional, a 3/8 socket wrench, flat head screwdriver to pry the tail light gently, and whatever tools for mounting the tube to the frame the way you like.

    link for clamps to hold tube to frame
    link for clamps to hold tube to nipples
    link for my rivet nut tool
    link for the relocated breather
    link for the nipple from the diff
    link for the tubing
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2022
    w666 likes this.
  8. Jul 4, 2022 at 3:00 AM
    #38
    w666

    w666 D. None of the above

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    The breather is not (usually) the source of the leak per se, but rather its cause. A faulty breather will allow a pressure build up in the diff, which can cause is to seep out of all kinds of places that it might not otherwise. Often its an axle seal that first leaks. Relocating the breather vent is an off road mod to prevent water from getting into the diff in case it happens to be underwater when the valve opens to breathe. Not likely you'll ever see any leaking by the tail light.
     
    FirstGenVol and bamdone[OP] like this.
  9. Jul 4, 2022 at 7:41 AM
    #39
    bamdone

    bamdone [OP] New Member

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    Dayton, OH
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    06 Salsa Red Pearl SR5 DC 4x4
    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    My entire left hand side of the cover was covered in oil. There was no oil coming out of the pinion. I know that because I didn’t see any oil slung onto the bottom of the bed, and a leaking pinion seal would mean oil on the front side of the diff not the back. The axle seals are by the wheels. I haven’t seen any oil near the drums or wheels. They look bone dry. That’s what makes me think it was a faulty or fully open breather. Does this make sense? I don’t have much experience with these as every truck I’ve owned in the past were old Chevys and they had bolt on covers and no breather lines or valves.
     
  10. Jul 4, 2022 at 7:53 AM
    #40
    bfunke

    bfunke Tundra Curmudgeon

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    Breather relocation is also a good idea if you pull a boat. Keeps the water out if you inadvertently submerge the axle.
     
    FirstGenVol and bamdone[OP] like this.
  11. Jul 4, 2022 at 4:20 PM
    #41
    bamdone

    bamdone [OP] New Member

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    Dayton, OH
    Vehicle:
    06 Salsa Red Pearl SR5 DC 4x4
    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    Today I took another rust shower and tried to get to my washer fluid reservoir sensor. My dashboard shows that I’m low on fluid and thought I could try and clean the sensor and put it back in. Well, long story short, I failed.


    After finally getting access to the reservoir, I wasn’t able to remove the stupid clip by squeezing and pulling. I’m guessing I need to play the screwdriver wiggle game and probably remove the wheel to attack it straight on. I’m not a contortionist and removing the wheel should get me more access.

    So I decided I would try and remove the entire reservoir; but, I have a stripped bolt that just keeps spinning. Again, removing the wheel and mud guard will allow me to drill it out. I might just try some free all and see what happens too.

    Another option is to maybe short the wire out, haha. Not really a good solution. But, man would that make my life easier. Haha.

    Any advice?
     
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