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Brett's average build thread

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by Star-Lord, May 22, 2017.

  1. May 22, 2017 at 2:36 PM
    #1
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Might as well get started and have a place to see my progress, keep notes, etc...
    2006 Access cab, 4.7, SR5.
    140,000 miles.

    The day I brought it home.


    First mod.

    Simple yet effective and didn't cost anything.


    New tires. It came with Duratracs that were just about carcasses and rode like crap because of it.
    Since this build is headed slightly towards daily driver status, I went with something that was less aggressive and more street friendly.
    Made by Cooper for Deans tires, 265/75-16
    These pice are being copied from another site, curious to see if they make the trip.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And took it for a drive after our last snow dump, you know, to test them out. They did fine.


    And of course the mundane list, oil change, repaired the stripped out bolt holes for the skidplate and got it secured again. Did the DRL disable mod, hands down the easiest mod ever. And that's about it until I get another couple days of free time. Inner CV boots need changed, will prolly do the outer too, or maybe just replace the whole shaft assembly. But I would like to try a re-boot first maybe.
     
    Backslider likes this.
  2. May 24, 2017 at 10:36 AM
    #2
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Decided to go with new. Not knowing how long the inner boots have been damaged, and trying to figure out a slight front end vibe, I decided it would be best to go with totally new and not remanned or attempt to re-boot with it potentially being a waste of time.
    [​IMG]
    Now to find time to do it.
     
  3. May 24, 2017 at 10:39 AM
    #3
    TXMiamiFan

    TXMiamiFan SSEM #3 and tractor extraordinaire

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    TRD Pro Grille, ESP Storage, Tailgate Inserts, Line-X Bedliner, Weathertech Floorliners, Wet Okole Seat Covers, 5" Shorty Antenna, Mickey Thompson MM-366 Wheels, ToyTec Boss, 35" BFG KO2 to name a few.
    :thumbsup: Keep the mods coming.
     
    Star-Lord[OP] likes this.
  4. May 24, 2017 at 4:52 PM
    #4
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Ok, found some time.
    Safety first, jackstands and tires under the frame in case of catastrophic failure.

    Remove the dust cover. This is the first time this one has been off.

    Remove the cotter pin and discard, I kept the retaining ring and re-used it on the new shaft because it had a really cool coating on it. :)


    Naturally, had to run to harbor freight, don't judge, just for that 35mm socket. They had a sale and bought the kit for $35.00.

    Being 1" drive, I had to buy a new breaker bar and a new torque wrench too.....:rolleyes:
    But buying tools is never a waste of money.
    To break that big nut loose, I stuck a screwdriver in the brake rotor and let it rest against the caliper. This is absolutely the best way to break that nut free and to re-torque at the end. Resting stuff across the wheel studs will only bend them. If you have a significant other, have that person stand on the brake if that makes you feel better.

    Remove the 4 bolts that attach the LBJ. 17 mm socket and a big breaker bar. With the steering wheel straight and the key out, the steering lock is sufficient to torque against.
    I skipped the part where the shaft gets gently hammered out. Use a plastic dead blow or a stick of wood so you don't bang against the shaft metal on metal, no bueno.


    I've seen guys pull the caliper, there is no reason for this. Just set the whole spindle assembly off to the side. The Tie rod surface is perfect to keep it out of the way.
     
  5. May 24, 2017 at 6:00 PM
    #5
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Next, I used an 18" precision prybar (big flathead screwdriver) to pop out the Cv shaft.



    New and old. I actually bought new and not re-man.

    Replaced the oil seal

    New shafts came with new dust seals on both ends. You'll have to reuse the old ones if you go with a re-man axle.


    It has been discovered that the ring on the end of the shaft will go easier if the open end is down and the splines and clip are lubed well.



    They also came with a big spacer, which in installed at first then had to remove as you can't get the cotter pin in. So it's not used for this application.


    Pics are loading painfully slow.. bear with me.
     
    TXMiamiFan likes this.
  6. May 24, 2017 at 6:26 PM
    #6
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    These fuckers loaded in the wrong order and I'm too lazy to unfuck it..
    Seated at the diff.


    Used 242 loctite on the 4 LBJ bolts, torqued to 64ft lbs.

    New 300ft lb torque wrench for the big nut. 249ft lbs for that bad boy.

    Drivers side seal.


    Dust cover on diff end...
    slightly larger seal surface on the new shaft


    this pic should have been two posts back, it just now showed up...passenger side after the seal is out.,

    That's all I got. :)
     
    blue16 likes this.
  7. May 25, 2017 at 9:05 PM
    #7
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Ordered new LBJ's. I forgot to mention it, but the driver side was missing one of the four bolts. The ball joints themselves still felt tight, but at 140,000, i thought it might be a good idea to replace them as well as the bolts.
     
    blue16 likes this.
  8. Jun 10, 2017 at 9:18 PM
    #8
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    After a successful ball joint replacement, it's been driving just fine. Sorry for not updating this more regularly.
    Took it for some very mild scenic type wheeling today.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Jerry311SD, ep3Jee, gosolo and 2 others like this.
  9. Jun 10, 2017 at 10:04 PM
    #9
    gosolo

    gosolo You Don’t Know Who I Am But I Know Where You Live

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    2"CB shackles, bushings and 1 shim, lockerdown console vault, rear folding seat back mod, snugtop shell with opening side windows, 46g fuel tank, SDHQ sliders and hidden winch, Decked Drawers, Alcan leaf springs and got rid of the interior chrome
    Appreciate the pictures and report. This will help many people who turn their own wrench!
     
    Star-Lord[OP] likes this.
  10. Jun 10, 2017 at 10:06 PM
    #10
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Chambers Lake
    [​IMG]
    Archer
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    mudslinger79 and TheBeast like this.
  11. Jun 17, 2017 at 2:58 PM
    #11
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    I added another leaf to the rear pack today. It sits too level for my taste and the load capacity needed to be increased.
    Leaf was a Add a Leaf from a 96 Jeep Cherokee, that received a standard lift pack and I saved the leaf.
    I had to cut the aal down a bit to fit between the stock pack and the original aal from Toytec.

    Safely supported.
    [​IMG]

    The leaf I'm pointing at is the added leaf from the original lift. The new one will go above that.
    [​IMG]

    Centering pins rusted all to hell, not surprised. :)
    [​IMG]

    Overload and original aal out and on the ground in preperation for measuring the new leaf.
    [​IMG]

    It's wet because I rinsed everything as I went.
    [​IMG]

    Newly trimmed leaf, I forgot the pic where I had it loosely mounted/clamped to the bottom of the main pack to get the proper marking for the cuts.
    [​IMG]

    original overload sitting on the new leaf to be added.
    [​IMG]

    New leaf installed, 4th from the top or 3rd from the bottom, your choice. Yes, it's a little thinner. I wanted just a mild extra bit of lift and a little bit extra stiffness to the rear, it was just a bit soft. Not sure if this will give me what i want, but gotta start somewhere
    [​IMG]

    Here you can see the distance I trimmed to give it flex room with the stock spring pack retainers. Original aal is back in place underneath the new leaf.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    added a 2 degree shim the rear to get the driveshaft and the pinion in alignment with each other.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    And I was so wrapped up in finishing, I neglected to take anymore pics. I'll get some measurements here in a bit. And some finished pics.
     
    aperezsh likes this.
  12. Jun 17, 2017 at 3:08 PM
    #12
    TXRailRoadBandit73

    TXRailRoadBandit73 YOTAS,RAILROADER,RÖKnRÖLLN',BEER,MAX/GEMMA

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    None yet
    Great job! Great write up! :thumbsup:
     
    Star-Lord[OP] likes this.
  13. Jun 26, 2017 at 9:34 AM
    #13
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    Took it for a drive up Moody Hill, and flexed it a little.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Steep climb in the beginning.
    [​IMG]
    Archer stretching his legs.
    [​IMG]
    popular campsite.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Top of the quarry.
    [​IMG]
    co-pilot.
    [​IMG]
     
    elbaba likes this.
  14. Jul 2, 2017 at 12:41 PM
    #14
    Phillipk98

    Phillipk98 05 sequoia

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    Nice thread love it.
     
    Star-Lord[OP] likes this.
  15. Jul 2, 2017 at 1:54 PM
    #15
    Justin9

    Justin9 New Member

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    Well done, good job man. :thumbsup:
     
    Star-Lord[OP] likes this.
  16. Jul 28, 2017 at 6:08 AM
    #16
    willrun4fun

    willrun4fun New Member

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    I like it. I just bought a 2000 that is sitting a little low in the front, what has been done up there to yours?
     
  17. Aug 6, 2017 at 5:54 AM
    #17
    Star-Lord

    Star-Lord [OP] New Member

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    It's currently on 5100's set at the highest setting. Not exactly ideal, but it's ok for now.
     
  18. Aug 8, 2017 at 8:20 AM
    #18
    alee891

    alee891 Rather Be Dead

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