Seeking advice on new towing setup

I do a lot of research before making big purchases but have limited trailer experience so hoping the experts here can tell me if what I’ve got planned looks good and if I need to look into anything else.

I figure a car hauler trailer is going to be best for my needs and budget right now, would like to get a dump trailer eventually when funds allow. We are closing on a 13+ acre property and will be homesteading and all that so this trailer will be used to help us move the little furniture we do have and pick up everything from raw materials, trees, plants pallets, equipment, maybe eventually a project car or recreational vehicle like a side by side or a kei truck.

Here’s the trailer I’m looking at:
https://knoxville.craigslist.org/trb/d/cookeville-new-steel-deck-lb-car-hauler/7473968249.html


20’ car hauler
82” deck (actual usable width)
5” channel frame
3500lb axles w/ electronic brakes

Immediate upgrades for the truck:
-Redarc elite brake controller
-Anderson WDH

Ive already upgraded my brakes and the falcon suspension has a tow haul mode. I do want to eventually get some new leafs, sumo bump stops, and RAS but I think those can wait.

Thanks in advance!

 

Do you know how much that trailer weighs empty?

 

That trailer probably weighs around 2,000# or so on its own. If it’s got 3500# axles on it (x2) then it can handle 7,000# total. So you can tow a 5000# car and be within its axle ratings. 3,500# axles are the lightest duty axle you can get. A trailer that big intended to haul big heavy things should (could) have the heavier rated axles on it. Like the 5600# or even 7000# axles. Just make sure you’re not planning on hauling a vehicle heavier than 5,000#.

 

I did speak with the guy yesterday and he said the same thing, I don’t think he gave the weight of the trailer itself but he said 5k max. I don’t plan on getting any big heavy vehicles down the line Ive got a compact kubota tractor on the wishlist but those are under 2k lbs.

 

With two 3500# axles the trailer GVWR might well be 7,700# since the tongue will be transferring 700# to your truck.

 

Oddly says “steel deck” in the description, but has the wood plank deck.

 

True, and likely more weight than that on the tongue depending on position of load. A front loaded vehicle will have the engine forward and most of the weight ahead of the axles.

 

It is a typo I believe he mentioned he also has some steel deck versions with similar specs and pricing.

 

Not a bad price for the trailer. Cheapest ones I’ve seen at 20’ have been around $3k. Some are not built very well and have a lot of flex to them. Open deck trailers like this are prone to that if constructed poorly.

 

Sweet, he did have a 4” channel one for about $300 less but I think it’s worth it to get one that’s a bit beefier. Also the fact that it runs under the deck back to the tires was another reason I went with this one. I had looked at the higher rated axles like you mentioned but seems like the price goes up significantly and at that point I’d probably be looking at a dump trailer instead.

 

You’ll never regret buying something that’s better constructed

 

True I just don’t wanna go overkill. We’re first time home buyers and closing on this property may mean funds are going to be tight for a bit and there’s a lot of projects I want to accomplish so best bang for the buck is the MO right now.

 

What’s your budget? That is a solid deal and will probably get a lot done for you. The reason I ask is because you can get a higher end trailer for $5k-$7k that I know you won’t be trading in a few years down the road.
http://www.bennetttrailer.com/2022-...new-equipment-trailer-salem-oh-44460-i1991787

http://www.bennetttrailer.com/2022-moritz-elbh-20-ar-new-equipment-trailer-salem-oh-44460-i1989422

 

Also look at Road Master Active suspension. Not saying you’ll need it but after you start doing your jobs and seeing how the truck handles, it might be an upgrade for you

 

More in reference to the 4” vs 5” channel frame. Not saying everyone needs a $10k 20’ trailer. That trailer you’re looking to buy may fit your needs perfect. If you find other wise, clean it up, sell it and upgrade when you’re able to. Good luck with the new house and property!

 

Ah gotcha, and you’re right looking at used ones these things hold their value. I probably would have gone used but then I remembered all the problems my scout master had back in the day with this canoe trailer he picked up-I remember seeing a wheel roll past us in traffic as we were crossing a big bridge, and also him having to stay behind one trip to take care of an axle bearing. That along with my research made me think it’s better not to take on those kinds of problems when the price difference isn’t that much. Thanks for the advice and congratulations we’re finally making it happen after all these years.

 

yessir that is on my list but I’d like to do that at the same time as leafs and sumo bump stops while I’m in there so it will be later down the line.

 

It's not clear to me how you're going to safely haul furniture and landscaping material on a flat deck trailer.

 

It’s got stake pockets on the sides. Could easily construct some temporary sides with 2x4’s. Or just strap it all down good.

 

I asked about how much it weighs because it does look kind of overbuilt to haul 5000#. That’s not necessarily a bad thing as has been stated for durability. Personally, I don’t want to drag around any more weight than necessary, but of course not at the expense of not being built well enough to handle what I need it do. But overbuilt is better than under built. I would inspect how the wiring is run on any trailer. You don’t want points where the insulation can wear through and be mindful of passages it runs through that mice can access, because they will get in there and ruin it.
Good luck!

 

Yep that’s what I was planning on- utilizing the stake pockets and building some sides up, at least for the front part of the trailer, along with some tie downs and some tarps for cover. I wasn’t going to do furniture and materials at the same time just listing the uses for the trailer in general.

Good points I will double check the wiring and look for weak points. Thanks for the tips I do think in this case being a bit overbuilt will give more peace of mind and add to the longevity of the trailer itself.

 

I bought a 16' utility trailer from a local "budget" manufacture that look very similar to the trailers in the picture. It was a decent price but it's only about a 90% trailer, the factory wiring is complete garbage and the safety chains aren't exactly safe. Still a good deal but if you buy a budget trailer figure in replacing all wiring and don't expect to get many years on the Chinese tires.
Also keep in mind that you probably wont ever save money on buying trailer for occasional use over renting a Uhaul, what you will save is time and hassle. I would recommend waiting a bit, close on the property and rent a trailer for the first few things you need to do then you'll have a better idea of what type/size trailer you really need.

 

Interesting you got me thinking..I did continue looking around and I could probably get away with a 18' car hauler with similar specs and be at $3000. We have a little over a month to move between the old and new place so that was main reason for looking at buying versus renting, I plan to use it every weekend during that time to slowly move stuff as opposed to all at once.

So using uhaul as a price comparison:

-$75.90 for 2 day rental of 6x12 utility trailer, round up taxes and gas to pick it up $100 easy..multiply by 4 weekends and I'm in about $400 in U-haul fees for the first month.
-Say I use need it one weekend out of the month from there on out, $100 a month.
-Over a years time $400+$1,100(11 months) I'm out $1500 total.

That's half the price if I had purchased an 18' at $3000. If I purchase said 18', after two years of ownership it will have payed for itself, and I'll have the option to sell it if my needs change. That's also not including the ability to load up a project car over that time which would probably run ~$150 for a 2 day period from uhaul

Similar used trailers about two years old and more go for about $2000-2500. Wiring repair/overhaul is something I'm comfortable taking on myself and tire life is what it is, it's not like they are the $300+35" tires that I'm currently running. So for me this kind of finalizes what I had been thinking, this will pay for itself so to speak with how I plan on using it, not to mention avoiding the hassle and time saved from going back and forth/waiting at uhaul centers.

 

There is the convenience and hassles of owning a trailer. If it's stored outside it's an eyesore that you watch rust away and boards rot. I have a Harbor Freight 1 Ton GVWR i bought years ago that takes up space in my shop and always in the way. It's spent a week or two outside and that's enough for the cheap Chinese paint to flake off the cheaper Chinese steel. Probably only have $5-600 in to it but it is very convenient to have available at a moments notice.

 

That's a similar calculation that I made, even though I could get everything done for cheaper renting my time is worth something and not having to rent, load, drive, unload, return is work the cost of buying the trailer to me. It's nice to be able to leave something on the trailer until you're ready to deal with it.
Your calculations reminded me of a conversation with an old family friend who ran projects for a large construction firm. He was saying if it'll cost 50% or more in rental costs just buy the equipment, you can sell it for more than 50% of the purchase cost later if you no longer need it. This was for equipment not passenger cars.

 

Luckily this new property has a big 50x80 metal barn I plan to park it along with the tundra in. There's also a RV style Carport that I could utilize as well.

 

Nice place. 50x80? That's a toy box to make any man jealous.