Heavy Duty Brakes

Hello All,
I tow heavy and for the most part I travel the extremities this countries byways has to offer.
Now I know the Tundra has a massive brake system and by specs will hold its own up against most 1 ton systems.
However that is an area that I personally would like to have some improvement.
I am looking into the Z-36 Truck/Tow rotors/pads for front/rear.
Has any one installed this system and if so, what were your results on steep long downgrades 6+
Real world experience not thoughts please.

 

Well as far as the now 2.5 gen tundra goes, I have had a terrible time with brakes. OEM pad and rotors have been terrible. While i don't have the set up you mentioned i just got delivered the stoptech hd tow brake axe kit rotors and pads. When i called to order a set of cryo rotors the sales guy (i know i know) asked the reason. I explained the warping pulsation etc. He stated that after owning several tundras himself and experienced the same issues he told me about the kit. He stated that oem brakes are terrible and caused pad deposit on rotors under heavy use and that shimmy on the steering and pulsation on the pedal would continue as long as i used oem stuff and used heavily. The cryo rotors were 200 bucks more than the axle kit. I will let you know how it goes once i install them. The kit you asked about has received very positive reviews.

 

I have these installed right now, probably 40K on them.

I'll say this, I can't wait to get them off.

I have some pulsing in the front that started around 15K I think. Not bad, but it is noticeable to me. I am careful to not have the brakes clamped down hard when coming to complete stops after hard braking. I followed their (Z-36) break-in protocol exactly as stated, followed this 2K miles later with a brake fluid flush because the brakes were good, but felt pretty soft. Nope didn't help. Got in a friends Tundra and his brakes were a ton better.

I tow often, 7x14 DA enclosed - 8.5x18 DA Enclosed (run them around MT/ID/WY 2-4 times/year), rent a 6K lb travel trailer occasionally. So I am most likely not as heavy as you. And I will not buy them again.

 

Look into DBA Rotors and your choice on pads...Powerstop isn't what they used to be for the last 10 years unfortunately...warped rotors and pulsing is a common feature with this "upgrade." Stoptech is also and other solid choice for rotors...I just threw the DBA T3s on my wife's 4th gen 4runner and they're incredible!

 

@Leverguns You may want to also consider HAWK Talon Rotors and either LTS or HD Pads. I installed the HAWK Talon Drilled/Slotted rotors and LTS Pads on my '16 CM a few months ago. So far, only city/hwy driving...but they really do have good bite (much better than stock-IMO). I tow heavy in the summertime, pulling a 7k lb Travel Trailer. So far, I'm really satisfied, and expecting them to do well when towing this summer. Also available, are slotted only HAWK Talon rotors, which I wanted, but were out of stock at the time. Check TireRack.com, they usually have good deals on these kits.

 

You want cryo treated rotors, would skip the slots and drilled. Slots only if you must. Pair with some good pads like EBC, akebono.

 

Yes, installed the Z36 rotors and pads and put about 6.500 miles on them towing out west with an 8000 lb camper. Have 8,000 miles on them total. Lots of stopping power and have had them on some significant grades. No pedal pulsation aka "rotor warping" noted so far. I do downshift into lower gear when descending significant grades and focus on not laying on the brakes. Install notes in following thread....

https://www.tundras.com/threads/power-stop-z36-install.103380/#post-2759282

 

I believe most of the issue I’m having is torquing the lug nuts to proper specs.
Dealer just installed the bilstein shocks/struts for me and I’m guessing only a well used torque stick was used if that.
I’m easy on the truck even when towing, since this is the first time with this issue it may have been induced‍♂️

 

I appreciate you sharing your experience.
Just the kind of advise I’m looking for.

 

Thank you for sharing your experience.
I will certainly look into those.

 

Hello all,
The weight of the trailer at 7,900 lbs is fully loaded.
Which is actually 10% under and never had an issue with power, regardless of the mountains that I have come across. I have had some very long and steep grades. The Tundra has handled each one in stride.
Now, I live on top of Carver mountain in Waynesville NC, gravel rd and 1/4 mile to my house is 13 degrees, I’m not going to sit here and say that she does it with ease, nope, I mean she really wakes up for that one,lol.
Kind of cool to hear that TRD duals sing their song when under that kind of torque.
Gotta be proud of your choice of truck when that happens.
The brake issue just started, two things I believe are culprits.
1- improper lug nut torque. (Induced)
2- Tiamat/ mentioned brake deposits collecting on factory rotors, that creates hard and/or hotspots when rotors become hot. Thanks for that info Tiamat.
With that being said, I don’t believe the rotors should be that temper mental, so I will be searching to eliminate that issue. First stop will be Toyota technical service. They may have something to offer, I mean we as daily drivers can not possibly push the limits of our trucks (while using common sense knowledge) as they do with the Baja truck racing. So what are those guys using?
I want what they got lol.

 

The handling aspect is well taken care of.
As for the brakes: I want to be as safe as possible for the sake of others as well as my family.
If tested I know my ignorance can in fact run very deep
I have run ebc brakes as well on a few hot rods in the past. Served me well,

 

@Leverguns forgive me if you stated it already but are you running stock size tires and wheels? Any lift?

 

no lift.
Factory rims.
Michelin Ltd a/t. Tires staying at good pressures and temperatures.
Next set to tires I will going up in rating on tires and rims.

 

Pardon my ignorance. I have literally never heard of lug nut torque affecting anything other than your wheel falling off. How does this affect brakes? I mean if they were loose I could maybe see it. But other than that?

 

If your wheel isn't seated nice n tight up against the hub you're gonna feel vibration and there will be movement between the stud and the wheel which will damage threads and also cause the wheel to move during braking.

 

Lug torque places pressure values directly to the rotor.
If the torque points are within specs then the rotor can and does warp once hot.
It’s actually a pretty common problem.

 

Not trying to be argumentative but no it doesn’t. That doesn’t make any sense. It’s not a direct force being applied to a single plane which would do what you’re talking about. That clamping force is:

1 indirect. IE the wheel is spreading that clamping force over a large area.

2. cumulative. IE the force applied to a point in the rotor is the sum of multiple clamping forces because there are multiple lug nuts

3. That force is going around two corners in the rotor... hat. IE those forces are not in the same plane as the surface of the rotor, how could that be?

I’m gonna do some sciencing and think about this. Better yet someone smarter than me help me.

 

I use a torque stick with my impact a max setting then I go over each one with a 4 way.

 

this makes more sense to me but that is a function of a clean mating surface not torque values. Obviously I’m just talking how tight not that it’s tight in the first place.

 

It could be that I’m underestimating the exponential increase in the force being applied by each ft/lbs. that’s what I’m trying to do the math on.

 

And I’m failing. I give up and concede and will use a torque wrench from now on.

I is dumb

 

I put a set of these on my wife’s Lexus RX350 (the rotors were warping every few months) and I love them. I’ve had them on for a little over 40K miles and smooth as butter.
When my pads are worn out I’m switching to the powerstop Z-36 rotors and pads.

 

lol,
Not knowing and dumb are certainly two different things.
Your far from dumb bo