General Supercharger Thread.

I'm towing near 9k regularly, have 5.29s, maggie etc, the only time I get into 6th is pretty much flat ground and just maintaining speed, most of the time you'll be in 5th, the temperature is pretty stable as well.

Are we talking about the maggie or Harrops? I spoke to Dennis at D3, and they are thinking about a stage 2 upgrade for Maggies, I feel like all the hp talk may be moot point, I care about that ET! rather have lower whp but faster and consistent time in 1/4 mile, I told Dennis I'd like to run consistent low 13s/high 12s on 35s vs high whp readings.

I have Stainless works, and 5.29s and powertrax, I'd rather re-gear first if I had to do it again.

 

How do you like the Powertrax off road and on road?

 

my friends subaru STI had a resevoir in the trunk for 50/50 washer fluid/water that was sprayed on the intercooler. This was from the factory.

 

We were just talking about the Harrop

 

I love it, on-road, when making turns it no longer doing unintentional peel out, off-road it behaves like a locker without having to press any button, if they ever decide to make one for the front, I'll be the first one to buy.

Here's me crawling up a rocky hill.

https://imgur.com/z3ufXbH

 

Didn't even break a sweat.

What meats and size are those?

 

285/75r18

With gears it just crawls over things, I can't wait to try trails again now with the supercharger.

 

I would disagree with Downy in my experience. The powertrax seems to need considerable torque going through it to get the tires to lock up. On the street depending with mild throttle I can get a one wheel peel, and if I stomp it it'll fully lock up, and has a progressive engagement curve between those two points.

The same thing happens off-road for me at least, I've been crawling where a tire in the back and a tire up front are off the ground and it doesn't want to move giving it gentle throttle, but if I floored it I'm sure it'd fully lock up but now you have 600hp trying to yeet in low range off-road. I'm not trying to discredit the above, but give experience on the opposite end of the spectrum. Since it's not a clutch based LSD or a locker, there is no propensity to split torque between the two wheels unless you force it too. This is why it's so tame in a parking lot and doesn't chirp, at low throttle there is no lock up at all which is the same thing happening going slow off-road. It'll fully lock up in a heart beat, but there's specific variables required for that to happen in my experience.

 

Interesting. Are they adjustable or is it one setting? Would you go with a locker instead?

 

No, it's just how it is. It's perfect for what I need, and don't get me wrong it's better than the stock open diff off-road. Imo it's the best onroad traction option, and probably the worst off-road traction adder (relative to lockers and MAYBE an Auburn). With the caveat being I've been in no other tundras, and based on my ancedotal evidence. Obviously Downys experience off-road is very different, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

 

I'm taking into account both user experiences so I appreciate the feedback.

 

That's wild on how different it is, I had mine done last March, when I take off at this same intersection that I do few times a day, the rear inside (passenger) always does a mini peel out before regearing, in the rain its worse, after powertrax/gears it just scoot, I wonder what could be the difference in experience?

 

My experience is the same as yours. Comparing to previous LS differentials mine is aggressive. Lots of off road miles, traction has not been an issue, but higher speeds on dirt and gravel required a tiny learning curve due to the Powertrax making the rear slide out.

 

I take it that it is manageable once you learn how it operates? Also do you have to disable all the nannies with this install?

 

good question.

I'm all ears on the response.

 

Wow! What fluid do you use? I've been running Amsoil synthetic in it even though Powertrax said don't run synthetic, I wonder if the more slippery fluid is making it more tame.

 

I have read hints of this hypothesis...

 

According to their site there's a mechanism that rubs against the case, and presumably that friction interaction adjusts how hard it locks up. I suspected synthetic might make that happen, and I'd assume getting rid of synthetic would just as likely fix it. But honestly I love how mine works, there's not even a hint it's there unless you really blast the power and want it to be there. Maybe there is some "tuning" potential depending on fluid!

And my apologies @Downytide! Sounds like I'm the weird one out, and that's very cool the LSD is better than I thought!

 

Another day and still no idea what's causing my Cylinder 1 Misfires. The tech from ProSpeed is supposed to be calling my shop today to bounce around some ideas. Hopefully they come up with something.

I do still have someone pretty confident that my issue stems from the drivers side cat. Due to that I've ordered a set of long tube headers to swap in and will have someone make me a custom midpipe to eliminate them.

 

No worries my man, that's the beauty about this forum, we exchange feedbacks and keep things improving, just using OEM fluid for the diffs, Ken recommended those, they are also the quietest.

Fingers crossed for you man, I like my stainless works headers, even with all the factory cats in the mid pipe it still sounds like a race car under wot, but quiet when cruising.

 

I actually do not like loud exhausts at all. I currently have a 10" BAM Catback and it's more than enough for me so I'm a bit nervous about what it's going to sound like. I'm specifically going to a high end exhaust shop so that he can custom make everything to be as quiet as possible for me. I ended up going with the Doug Thorley's. Not sure if I'll leave the BAM in place or not. May go with a monster Magnaflow or something to keep sound down.

 

If the shop moved the injector, spark plug, and coil pack from the messed up cylinder to other cylinders and the misfire didn't follow/change, I think you can confidently say there's a larger issue at play. Either back pressure related like the cat, or something internal to the combustion chamber.

 

I know I moved spark plugs and coils first. Then at the shop they swapped 'em around again and replaced with brand new and the issue persisted on Cylinder 1. I'm not sure if they've swapped injectors yet. Waiting to hear back.

 

Any word on if they checked injectors? Also, are you using IKH22 or 24 plugs?

 

ProSpeed had me get NGK LFR6AIX-11

Haven't heard back on the injectors yet. Gonna check in again tomorrow.

 

I’m absolutely no expert on the plug situation, and I would think Prospeed would know… but that said I looked at the cross reference and those are coming up as an

$41 IKH20 Iridium Power Spark Plug Ikh20 X 4Pieces Ignition Plugs Racing Upgrade

IKH20 equivalent. Everything I’ve read says those are too hot of a plug. Running the standard pulley sizes on the blowers I usually see 22s or 24s recommended. I’ve seen many recommendations on switching to 24s when you run a smaller pulley. DAP basically insists on the 24s for tuning supercharged tundras. Makes sense if they’re too hot that when you’re at WOT for that long you may start getting misfires from pre-detonation?

 

I know nothing about plugs but I just went back through our emails and checked the site. They definitely say to use the 6619. I just emailed them as well just to triple check. Just want to get this thing running.

 

I purchased my Harrop from Prospeed as well, and I was installing at a stage 1. They told me at stage 1 to get 6619 plugs (stock heat range) which I did and it ran fine. That’s what is in the truck stock, but I just put fresh ones in to be safe. DAP had me get ikh24s when I went stage 2 and he I believe recommends them on all supercharged applications. Even Toyota recommended plugs for the TRD supercharger were colder than stock, 22s I believe. If you can’t find any other solution it could be worth a try. Nowhere else have I seen 20s recommended for supercharged trucks.

 

Do you know the part number on those? I'll get some tomorrow. I'll try anything at this point.

Edit: Having a hard time even finding them locally .

 

Just make sure you buy from somewhere reputable, apparently there’s a lot of counterfeits out there right now. (Strange market to counterfeit). Looks to be a Denso 5346. I’d just get an opinion of someone else too before spending another 70 bucks on plugs, maybe @snivilous or @ViktorG https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/denso,5346,spark+plug,7212