What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

How hard is it to mess up the splines while using a soft mallet to wack the front axles in? I'm having a really hard time getting my front axles to go in...

I've tried to align the splines up and feel for it... but it seems impossible

I'm making sure the cv axle is straight

 

I could feel the extra resistance from engaging the differential. Then used a long mechanics prybar to tap the axle in from the groove on the CV collar. This is why the groove is cut into the collar.

I would not pound directly on the splined end with any material hammer.

 

Sorry I'm just trying to make sure. Like this?

 

This is the groove. Opposite the hose clamp holding the rubber boot.



Long mechanics prybar:

 

Just to the right of where you're at. The 3-4" wide steel collar

Pry bar should be protruding straight out of the wheel well and tap on the end of the prybar to gently drive the axle into the diff

 

Awesome thanks guys!! I'll give it a shot.

But there's no chance of messing up the splines right? They pretty much align themselves?

 

I was able to feel the extra resistance (rotating the axle) when it was engaging the splines in the diff

 

Having that c-clip in the grove with the open end facing down should help significantly.

 

Here ya go:

Nickel Plated Pin Switch w/Polycarb Plunger and Rubber Boot

$7 Nickel Plated Pin Switch w/Polycarb Plunger and Rubber Boot

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TQPM6Q

I like the dummy light idea! Having a rearview camera makes it pretty obvious when I backup, but I've forgotten the tailgate when driving forward. I'd probably need a buzzer.

Unrelated, I finally replaced the accelerator so hopefully it won't surge going over bumps. I hate that.



Also I finally fixed the last knocking sound I had while driving... I had replaced spark plugs, run seafoam through, tightened the skid plate, etc but I finally discovered that one of the heat Shields above the muffler had rusted out around a screw so it was just boucing off the remaining screw. I put on a bigger washer which should hold it for a couple of years.

I guess I didn't take a picture but I did the same thing for the cover below the fuel tank.

 

It's almost in...damn. Yall are awesome, couldn't have done it without your input.

 

What did you use to paint the emblems?

Ah too bad, thanks for the response.

 

Tell me about the accelerator. Do you have a link or just OEM replacement? I have the same problem, there are some really bad bumps at a certain intersection and it surges also, I hate it!

 

I read something about the dust boot being flush with the differential.

Do those look about right or does that metal ring go all the way in? Just trying to make sure before I start to put the knuckle on

 

Looks like success to me!

Excellent to see

 

Thanks brother, couldn't have done it without you!!

 

Happy I could help a bit.


Here's to a smooth button-up

 

Looks good!

 

Finally got my Victory cab-over rack out of the box and put together, now to wait for warm weather to drill some holes in my roof... My $99 harbor freight hoist finally got used to make the install part easy, no stressing about scratching the truck when I lift it on top and position it...

 

My power steering pump keeps destroying my serpentine belt...I adjust the belt to make sure all the teeth are in but it keeps happening. This is a new belt that I just picked up...

This is also a new power steering pump that I installed installed

 

I got my info from this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/touchy-gas-pedal.29361/

Here's the pedal I ordered: Genuine Toyota (04000-0440C)...

Genuine Toyota (04000-0440C) Accelerator Pedal Assembly

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OW341XS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The reviews are relevant!

 

I ordered the 04000-0440C pedal from Cool Spring Toyota earlier this week. $30.46 plus shipping. I could have picked it up but with gas prices the shipping was worth it.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/bm11DbYZjfk?feature=share

That's what's happening...I can't figure out why

 

When you got the new pump did you check it to make sure the offset from bolts to pulley where the same? Also double check belt routing while your at it. Something seems off if I recall right are belts shouldn't have a forward or back adjustment so misalignment adjustment arn't built in. I've seen chevys that did that due to a pulley not being pressed in all the way onto the shaft which could be the issue. They make a pulley laser alignment tool that might be some help here. I believe the video was from "SouthMain Auto"

 

Not sure , but doesn't look like the belt is seated properly in pulley , never seen one with a dip in the middle like that , and looks like it is setting way up on 1 side of pulley. Did you check belt fit before installing the pump?

 

Finally put an overlay on the steering wheel emblem. The only chrome I have left is the back bumper.

 

2020 Sequoia grill and next up alpharex pros

 

SEM trim black

 

So what I've done to fix this, I called toyota and gave them my vin number. Ordered another ps pump.

I think the offset is different and that's why this is happening. Lesson from this: Don't order from Rockauto.

 

Thanks! Ordered one!

 

Recently decided to do some upgrades to the tundra to keep myself from wanted to buy another truck.

Installed front mounted camera, replica pro grill, paint matched mirror caps and door handles, under hood lighting, 1” seat risers, and the 3wliners auto up/down window module. Also added Toyota GBS to factory alarm, a voltmeter, got rid of the annoying tpms light by the bypass mod I saw on here, added the auto dim headlight feature,and the info buttons, and added vled puddle lights to side mirrors.

Optitron gauge is on order and tackling adding steering wheel controls is on the list of things to do as well!!