Disable TPMS - I am fed up with the dashlight

Hi fellow Tundra owners, looking for a little reassurance. I have read all the old threads on jumping power from the yellow wire to the light green wire at the Tpms module in my 2015 1794 Edition. I am fed up with the dash light and the money grab for new tpms sensors. Any advice before I try it ? Seems alot of you have had great success, just wanna make sure there have been no bad results by doing this. Thanks alot everyone. Cheers.

 

Do you have all your sensors ? are they bad?

 

I still have all sensors. 2 original and one that is 6 mos old. That said, I have another that just died yesterday. I debated about doing the cut and fix 6 mos ago when first one died. Now another and it will be another $100 from the stealership for the install and the reprogram. Just thinking that it is time for the disable but a bit leary doing it....

 

You can disable the TPMS warning light - did this method on my 2.5 Gen and its been 3+ yrs with no issues.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/disable-tpms.1056/page-3#post-979617

 

yeah. I had bought this and it works great. I bought after market sensor from rock auto and used this
https://www.ateq-tpms.com/en-us/products/quickset-light-tpms-reset-tool/

 

On the 2007-2017 trucks a wire runs into the back of the cluster. Generally light green. It is what controls the TPMS indicator on the dash.

Putting 5v signal on this wire makes the light go off, 0v makes the light come on.

The yellow wire is the 5v power signal for the TPMS ecu. Jumping the green wire to the yellow is just putting the indicator on the constant 5v power supplied to the TPMS. It is essentially bypassing the ecu, no matter what the ECU sees when powered on, you will have 5v on the green wire to keep the light off.

It’s really just a clever way of finding a 5v signal to send up the wire to keep the indicator off

I tested this on my 2014 bench top cluster, worked great.

 

2014 1794 Crewmax, I have done the mod and it works perfectlty. I don't need a light to tell me when a tire is going low. I am old and always check tire pressure bi-weekly, rotate all 5 tires every 5,000 miles while changing my oil at the same time. I learned from my father and it just stuck. My wife has a car that actually tells you which tire is low and it more useful than my tpms system. But I still check her tires bi-weekly also. Some of us old goats just can't get out of the habit.

 

My HU displays individual tire pressures. I wonder if I could put 5v to the light and still have the system display the individual pressures, seems it would. This'd be really nice off road, running 20psi and not having a dash light.

 

I use this works pretty well

$76 Tymate RV Tire Pressure Monitoring System - M7-3 TPMS Tire Pressure Monitor System(0-145 PSI) with Solar Charger, RV TPMS with 4 sensors & 5 Alarm Modes, LCD Display, Auto Sleep Mode, Easy to Install

Amazon.com: Tymate Tire Pressure Monitoring System M7-3 - TPMS with Solar Charger, 5 Alarm Modes, Auto Backlight LCD Display, Auto Sleep Mode, 4 TPMS Sensors, Easy to Install (0-87 PSI) : Automotive

 

Did the bypass yesterday on my 2011, lights gone! Seems to be no issues. I had bought some factory rims without sensors so the light was an annoyance.

I have this to monitor individual tire pressures anyway.

$53 VESAFE Wireless Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) for Small Size 4-tire Vehicles, Including 4 External Cap sensors (0-87PSI)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LA8LL12?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I say go for it!!

 

You can just recalibrate it to the lower pressure while on the trail to turn the light off, and then when you air up you calibrate again to the higher pressure. It's a push of a button.

 

Are you using the mastero interface? It collects data from the trie pressure ecu on the communication lines. The green wire only controls the light on the instrument cluster. You should be able to bypass the light and still have info on your headunit

 

Thanks for the response, exactly the info and answer I was looking for, as well what I suspected to be true.

 

Do you have a single wire going into your OBDII port? I think this is where the Mastero is getting the TPMS data. If not do you know what other data communication lines you wired into. I want to study how the Mastero is getting the TPMS data from the ECU. I have a good idea but understanding how people are wiring it in and getting it to work on Headunits would help.

 

When I get a chance I'll look into it. What I know right now is there's an OBD plug from the Kenwood HU (possibly from the Maestro) plugged into the OBD containing just one wire. I can get a pick later if that'd help

 

Yea shoot a pic so I can see which pin it’s on. Im 99% sure this is where they are pulling TPMS data from.

 

Oriented the way it plugs in so it's bottom, 2nd from the left, no number visible to my old eyes.

 

Whats the steps involved in gaining access to the plug for doing this MOD? How much of the dash/ glove box needs to be disassembled??

 

There is no need to remove the glove box. Remove the lower trim piece which if I recall has some clip type attachments that I personally found challenging for my old man fingers. Remove the lower valance and you need to look up to find the tpms computer.

Go up to post #4 of this thread. Click on the link there and read from where it begins and continue down through the thread there. Your question will be answered.

 

I never had an issue with mine until I aired up my E rated tires to 50lbs. They are rated for up to 80lbs cold so I guess the light works for what the computer reads as excessive psi as well as low. I can’t get the light to reset now.

 

Is it possible the battery in one of your monitors has decided to end it's life ?

 

If this is the case, you can check it by seeing if the the light blinks first for like 60 seconds and then stay on.

 

think im confused where the tpms is located. is it on the driver side or the passenger side?

 

Passenger side under and behind the glove box. It is technically the tpms computer and it says that on the actual computer. The area to work with cutting the wires etc is limited and you want to make sure you have a good connection. On my first try I did not have a good connection and light was still there. I redid the connection and it worked fine from there.

 

Not sure but it started the same day I changed the air pressure from 32lbs to 50lbs

 

A poem to Toyota :::

Good bye Orange Light,
Good bye Orange glow,
A HUGE Thanks to all of those who came before me in this post, MyTPMS light is finally OUT !
I am good to go !!!

Well I took a leap and attempted this and so far of no regrets. The first attempt did not work, the posi taps I used were a bit too big and never poked through the wires. I had bought a variety pack and used the mini ones (see pic - the 2 smallest ones on left side of pkg) the only thing I did different was I used 2 posi taps, since these wires are so fine (and fat fingers which might lead to having stripping the light green) I figured I would poke (tap) each of the wires ( 5 & 6 pic) in the harness, I still cut #5 light green after I tapped it. Then I just had a small piece of wire go between the 2 positaps. Presto, all fixed.

Seriously Toyota, as one person said, we can disable air bags with a switch, why not the TPMS.

Thanks everyone for your help.

 

Just attempted this on my 17 and as usual it didnt work for me for whatever reason. cut light green splice to the yellow like everyone else has and nothing.Light still on.

 

Hey Rob, hmmmmm this sucks man. Can I ask how you attached the light green to the yellow. If you read.my post above the first time I did it, I never made a good connection with the positap i re did positap with the smallest size positap. Did you do a splice with no connector which should be a good connection. I'm not trying to question your methods, just I love to trouble shoot. Also which end of the light green did you tap.to yellow ? I don't know how to.describe, you want the non connector end of the light green to yellow. Jez man I hope this helps and you solve this.

 

i did it exactly how that picture shows. used green from the harness end not connector end.I used the mini posi tap for 22ga and i re did it a few times and nothing.i also tried a t tap same thing .flashing light

 

Also forgot there are 2.yellows. look at the factory connector pic above in my post you want wires (pins) 5 and 6 which are side by side. Pin #7 wire is a yellow too. See this schematic I pulled froma earlier post.