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No crank, no start, and definitely not my Battery!

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by 01TundraStillRollin, Dec 4, 2021.

  1. Dec 5, 2021 at 12:11 PM
    #31
    Heavyopp

    Heavyopp New Member

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    Except battery cables...
     
    Richid, Aerindel, landphil and 2 others like this.
  2. Dec 5, 2021 at 12:16 PM
    #32
    Dunk

    Dunk New Member

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    Start re-checking all the simple stuff before you load up the parts cannon. Poor connections, especially at a ground, will cause a problem like this.
     
    Aerindel and Punk1974 like this.
  3. Dec 5, 2021 at 3:48 PM
    #33
    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    For what it's worth, my currently running Tundra also buzzes from something under the hood with the key ON but engine not started. Not sure where its from, perhaps something near the throttle plate.
     
  4. Dec 6, 2021 at 6:15 AM
    #34
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    Neither of these accounts for the grounds, If he needs 35 amps to spin the starter and a bad ground is only allowing 10 amps of flow, all he will get is a click as the contacts close, but not enough juice to spin. This does not prove or disprove wether the starter works unless you can verify how many amps are flowing through the starter.
     
    Richid, Dunk, dinosaur and 1 other person like this.
  5. Dec 6, 2021 at 6:17 AM
    #35
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    you have a 2000 he has a 2001 so it may be an early 1st gen normal, but my 04 is silent with the key on.
     
  6. Dec 6, 2021 at 6:18 AM
    #36
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    The buzzing, when not normal, is commonly a faulty relay.
     
  7. Dec 6, 2021 at 6:46 AM
    #37
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    For poop and laughter, I went to my truck, shifted to D with engine off , still no buzz. But, guess what, when I bump the starter in D it clicks.
     
    KNABORES likes this.
  8. Dec 6, 2021 at 6:55 AM
    #38
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 270k miles. 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4 Cement Grey 75k miles
    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    Some kind of lockout on the starter may be at play based on those symptoms then. Someone previously mentioned the "not in park" scenario. More things to diagnose.....
     
  9. Dec 6, 2021 at 7:06 AM
    #39
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    It's a disconnected ground. I have an 04 so the exact route may be different for his 01. My truck starts fine, So I am working on known good. But, when the circuit is not grounded through the P/N switch at the trans, (I tried to start in D) if I turn the key to start it doesn't start, but it audibly clicks under the hood such that I can hear it in the cab. There are multiple grounds in the circuit. They all have to be flowing to run the starter, bypassing the start relay doesn't prove anything.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2021
  10. Dec 6, 2021 at 7:35 AM
    #40
    10 blue trucks

    10 blue trucks New Member

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    For example:
    The only electrical manual I have is an 06, on that one the P/N switch grounds in the drivers kickpanel near the Jbox.

    If that ground is not secure or there is a broken wire in the P/N circuit, or a faulty P/N switch, an 06 will not start. But there is nothing wrong with the starter or battery. The truck will click when you try to start it though.
     
  11. Jan 16, 2022 at 8:27 PM
    #41
    01TundraStillRollin

    01TundraStillRollin [OP] New Member

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    2001 Blue Tundra SR5 ext. cab 4x4 4.7l
    Only thing I’ve done is added a deep cycle marine battery in the bed with a run of 1/0 gauge OFC connecting the two then two capacitors just before my 1500 watt amp and four ten inch subs behind the seats in the extend cab.
    Next move is follow every wire from connection to connection and check every ground because now I have replaced the starter, the battery, the alternator recently, which now that I’ve tested was just fine so both the starter and alternator I replaced were fine. I did upgrade the alt. to a 140 amp redone custom one for stereo got rid of extra battery. And right when I got the new battery it actually started and I drove it around and now I remember going to the car wash and spraying the engine bay down. Didn’t think of it before because I always do it it has never been an issue. But like one person said the starter is designed to be able to get wet. And after it dried out it would work but it’s been weeks and weeks and still nothing. But I remember when it ran it started the buzzing thing but not nearly as loud, now it’s annoyingly loud but could be because the engine isn’t running and I can’t help but focus on it. Messing with all these wires when it’s ten below zero outside really sucks. I ran all new 1/0 gauge power and ground wire from battery to alternator and ground from battery to fender. Can’t find engine ground yet. But engine block and starter grounds are next. I am parked on the street and neighbors called the cops saying there’s an abandoned vehicle so they gave me 100 dollar ticket and 48 hrs to move it or get towed notice. So now it’s down the street in the way of where other people need to park and the spot where I was parked hasn’t had a single person park there at all. I’ve been out there every day doing something to the truck damn people in my town are all up in other peoples business. Is my truck blocking your driveway, no it’s not so shut your trap and be glad you have a neighbor that isn’t noisey and isn’t selling stuff and keeps to himself. Some people just need an asswhoopin
     
    BUD640 and Lovetrucks like this.
  12. Jan 16, 2022 at 8:28 PM
    #42
    01TundraStillRollin

    01TundraStillRollin [OP] New Member

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    Only thing I’ve done is added a deep cycle marine battery in the bed with a run of 1/0 gauge OFC connecting the two then two capacitors just before my 1500 watt amp and four ten inch subs behind the seats in the extend cab.
    Where is this P/N circuit and is it expensive
     
  13. Jan 17, 2022 at 8:07 PM
    #43
    01TundraStillRollin

    01TundraStillRollin [OP] New Member

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    Only thing I’ve done is added a deep cycle marine battery in the bed with a run of 1/0 gauge OFC connecting the two then two capacitors just before my 1500 watt amp and four ten inch subs behind the seats in the extend cab.
    Kfrog you’re tellin me, cold is sooooo understated. In the peak of winter you can take a glass or bowl of boiling water go outside throw it into the air and it freezes to ice and snow before it hits the ground. I didn’t know what cold was until I felt a lug nut that was -40 F degrees. I am originally from Seattle so 40 degrees above zero is cold. The play goes go outside remove one maybe two bolts or nuts then go back in the house to warm up, then go do another bolt or two then go in the house to warm up. At these temps frostbite happens in 30 min or less. I am never going to live in another place here without a garage that I will then heat at least somewhat, but a move back home to Washington or even western Montana is looking like the place for me asap
     
  14. Jan 17, 2022 at 8:09 PM
    #44
    01TundraStillRollin

    01TundraStillRollin [OP] New Member

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    Only thing I’ve done is added a deep cycle marine battery in the bed with a run of 1/0 gauge OFC connecting the two then two capacitors just before my 1500 watt amp and four ten inch subs behind the seats in the extend cab.
    And thanks kfrog for what I think will be the winning maneuver suggestion. I gotta take off my damn intake manifold again. I’ll let ya know when I get to the starter to test it like you said. Thanks again.
     
  15. Jan 18, 2022 at 5:20 AM
    #45
    shifty`

    shifty` Is the Gila Copter a love machine?

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    (see signature for truck info)
    You may be able to test the park/neutral position safety switch using this crude method:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K3Hti3Y9q2Y

    Here's some troubleshooting on a '00 Tundra to get you started on starter circuit and talks about the neutral safety switch along with other tricks, including relay tapping (which actually works with many bad relays):

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0jWouSQYTnU

    And diagnostic of neutral safety switch on an '06 Tacoma using Techstream in case it's interesting, assuming you have access to Techstream:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jCnz9DGAd8g
     
  16. Jan 18, 2022 at 7:47 AM
    #46
    01TundraStillRollin

    01TundraStillRollin [OP] New Member

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    2001 Blue Tundra SR5 ext. cab 4x4 4.7l
    Only thing I’ve done is added a deep cycle marine battery in the bed with a run of 1/0 gauge OFC connecting the two then two capacitors just before my 1500 watt amp and four ten inch subs behind the seats in the extend cab.
    So after two and a half months with no truck, replacing the starter, the battery, and the alternator with a 140 amp (along with doing the big 4 upgrade with 1/0 gauge wire) with zero luck I finally fixed the problem. Underneath the wire loom there was a section of wire going to the starter that had been spliced in and not soldered and it was corroded to a thin string of a connection. Hence all my electrical working but not enough juice to kick the starter.3 dollar piece of wire. Wow. Well my truck now starts up like a champ cause I put the 2k starter upgrade in and a high output alternator plus new huge grounds and power wire so it puts like a kitten. Now I will put a couple new tires on the back rotate the back to the front and get an alignment and I should be ( better be) set for the rest of the winter.
     
    KNABORES likes this.

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