What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Be sure to hit it with some 303 every once in a while.

 

Y'all would be shocked at how dirty my engine bay is after my latest snow-wheeling adventure. It's keeping me up at night.

 

Time for a feather dustin’

 

Oh believe me, that's on the agenda for tomorrow.

 

I'm down in Florida for my brother's 40th and my brother in law said he found pictures of my Tundra while surfing this forum. Never been so proud.

 

Haha all walking around with a pep in your step! Is your bro in law on here?

 

No. He's got a Land Cruiser but creeps here occasionally apparently.

 

Swing by and grab this for me on your way home.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/125084304166

 

sweet ride and nice even at that price. What I wanna know is, why can’t we adapt that 5speed trans to the non-vvti 4.7’s?? I might even get sweet on a full time AWD setup too

 

Thanx for the informative response, however, your Epay link was a no-go for me. My fcc Id is ELVAT5C. I got thru about 4 pages of that thread you linked and there was a similar ID mentioned, but didn’t see which system it was a part of. BTW, I believe the fob I have is a replacement. That shouldn’t matter tho right? I mean, if the replacement has to match exactly, (fcc ID) then the original would be the same as the replacement I currently have, which is this:

it’s a 1 button does both, and 2nd button I believe is programmable but unused
I’ll check on Toyota owners and see what it says but what I think would be helpful, is some type of chart. Like:
ELV###### = factory = RS3#000
BIAB##### = dealer = RS3##00
….. or something of the likes. If such a thing exists, can we bring it to the surface.
Please and thank you.

 

Flip it upside down and get a close up of the entire FCC ID and maybe we pursue this on the other thread so it can help others? Here is what my OEM fob looks like. I think the entire thing has to be an exact match as the first key I got (same style as my Tacoma H key) did not work (it ended in 056 and my stuff needs 022)

And after a little digging, maybe ElVAT5C is your entire FCC ID? If so I think that’s an aftermarket keyless entry so you may be SOL unless your truck can accept the RS3000 by finding one somewhere. This guy seems like he might have some skills in that department. It’s possible that 1999’s don’t have the harness plug.

 

Anybody got a limited center cap laying around? T3 is missing one.

 

What I’d like to know is how it affects fuel economy (if at all) and if it allows the back window to be open without dust/detritus from the bed/world blowing in.








Also, I pushed the fender liners forward and then trimmed the arches again this morning in an effort to eliminate rubbing.
Initial impressions are good.
Even did a little off-roading through my yard to flex the front with the wheels turned.

 

This is unacceptable.




Doing my pre-trip shakedown before driving back to Tennessee tomorrow.

 

I thought it would be so much worse...I think you will make it past this one.

 

Clean enough to eat off of… compared to mine

 

Changed out all my interior bulbs to LED. Also swapped the ones in the climate control. Found out my dash noises are from that inserts, tabs are broken/missing in multiple spots. Some ham fisted mofo must have done the stereo install. Busted some condoms working the climate control bulbs, they were melted to a couple of the old ones. Rolling condom free now just like college. Lights didn't seem to come on in the climate control area when I buttoned it back up, but will check it later tonight.

 

LEDs probably need a 180 degree flip…

Also, how many STDs you got now?!?

 

Some of the bulbs are directional, so if it doesn’t work, flip them and see what happens. I’m sure Noah will chime in after his shift, he’s pretty good with those I think

 

Not sure, what are the odds all of them were oriented wrong? I'll get a better look when its dark. Not hard to yank it out. See what I did there? I'll see myself out....

 

You’d be able to see them when it’s light out. So unless you forgot to plug in two HVAC controls/lights then you’ve got ‘em wrong.

 

I had about 90 minutes max free time today, so took on three tasks:

- 303 the hell out of the new TonnoPro
- Replace cowl bolt seals (8) and screws (8) and 303 the hell out of the cowl plastics
- Replace mud flaps with new ones picked up a few weeks back (old ones already sold)

Pics of before/after and the cowl white bolt seal process below.

Mud flaps and tonneau were a breeze. However, and warning to all, I wish someone would've told me (1) how much of a pain in the ass the black plastic cowl cover fasteners on the engine bay side of the plastic cowl cover were to pop out and (2) to make sure and buy at least 3-4 replacement black plastic cowl fasteners, along with their translucent receiver cups. I'm off to order those now ... Oh, and also, make sure when you install the new white cowl bolt seals, push down until you hear BOTH clicks. I wouldn't recommend re-using the white plastic bolt seal hardware. The plastic is pretty brittle.

Pics and notes :

Cowl fastener seals were totally dead. One fastener was loose. What a crap design. Look at how crusty the windshield was behind it


It was pretty nasty up under there. A lot of this wasn't coming off w/o buffing. Didn't have time. Maybe after I replace the windshield.


While the cowl plastic cover was out, I hit it with 303 and let it soak while I was doing the rest of the work. The end result was pretty impressive.


Windshield had this haze on it, like the glass was sandblasted. Polishing compound wouldn't take it out. a cutting compound was able to remove it. Weird


Here's the part numbers on the replacement hardware, if it's interesting to anyone. This is just for the 8 x T20 cowl bolts and the cowl plastic fasteners and their flimsy foam seal, look here for the part numbers of the plastic clip and receiver which you'll inevitably break doing this job:


After cleaning off residual, I took polishing compound to the paint around the hole for a good seal. Then reinstalled the new plastic cowl fasteners. I know only one of them is the culprit for passenger floorboard leaks, but ... wtf right? They're like a buck each or something stupid like that. My truck is worth it.


Cowl plastic cover wiped down, everything buttoned back up again.


And now for some larger pics - here's the before/after on the mudguards. These mudguards are specific to the AC/RC trucks with fender flares. If anyone is looking for some gimme a holler. The old ones are pictured, I used Griot's "trim restore" on the one that's way blacker than the rest.

 

Oh and I also noticed the rubber wipe/seal along the top of the cowl plastic on my truck has shrunk and is about 1.75" too short on the passenger side. Guess I need to order another one of those jokers too...

 

So the symptom was water in the cab from old 18055?

 

Added those part numbers to my next order. I need to address the puddles of water on the floor every time it rains. It looks like a half gallon of water pours out the passenger side when I open the door.

 

I wasn't personally dealing with any leaks I'm aware of, but the truck is almost always indoors. I'm not out and about much when it rains, strange as it sounds. But I had a sneaky suspicion my cowl had never come off based on some visual cues.

My actual main goal was to replace the cowl cover screws and treat the cowl cover b/c it was greying. I figured if I had to crack the cowl cover off anyway, I probably needed to do the 18055 pieces, knowing my luck if I don't, it's bound to start leaking. Preemptive maintenance.

Your passenger side leaks, or both sides? If passenger side, little white plastics (p/n 90080-18055) shown in my pic are what you need. And you really only need to do one of them, it's one of the three on the far passenger side. The 5 starting from the driver side to the middle are over open sections of the cowl, it's only that (2nd?) one away from the antenna that is directly over the cabin air intake that allows water to drip right in.

 

It leaks most from the passenger side. I think there's some water getting in elsewhere too. Need to check the rear window over as the cab corners are also damp.

I moved this year from Colorado to Alabama. The truck has never seen so much rain. Also need to pull the topper off and do a full resealing.

 

There's a sticky thread that's usually buried which is dedicated to leaks over here.

Front passenger side could be anywhere from the roof down, but the one culprit that most people find, believe it or not, is a single fastener shown here, directly over the fresh air inlet which dumps water into your squirrel cage fan, which then spills over into the floorboard. (Part number is a post or two above)

Rear cab corners damp is probably 3rd brake light gasket, but there are a couple other possibles in that leak thread. Anyway, just go ahead and get a new seal. Link here:

VIPMOTOZ Third Brake Light Stop Lamp Seal Gasket For 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra Pickup Truck - Upgrade 4mm Thickness Seal Replacement Foam, Double Side Ultra Strong Adhesive

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S43QCZ6/

Good luck, and if you find your leak sources were somewhere else, update the Definitive Leak Thread with pics and details.

PS - Don't suppose you're still active and landed at Rucker?

 

Mine did the same thing. Please post the part number if you find it.

 

Just checked the center cluster and nothing lights up. Good times. I will mess with it tom. Thanks for those part numbers @shifty` , my cowl needs some love and was trying to figure out what I needed!