V8 Radiator

Maybe some people just don’t have the money…

 

I would take @Shifty s advice. But, depending on how much you drive it and how long it will take for you to drive 20k… if $100 will let you sleep at night, then go for it.

As far as fluid I would use a bottle labeled for Asian vehicles that says Toyota in the description. You will find just as many opinions about Toyota radiator fluid as oil. I would comfortably use any aftermarket fluid labeled for Toyota. However the only reason I wouldn’t use Prestone All vehicle is because I don’t have time to make sure every bit of red or pink is gone as they really shouldn’t be mixed- but short of that even it would fine. I have found that the Asian vehicle coolant choice is different in different regions of the USA. Around my area I seem to find Zerex red so that’s what I use.

The difference between Toyota red and Toyota Pink is about one ingredient if you look at the available sds and chemical data (and it doesn’t really matter to the vehicle, I think it’s for the fish). Also, pink Toyota is pre diluted and red is not, as someone else mentioned.

 

I think Red can be easily found. Example:

https://www.oempartsource.com/oem-parts/toyota-red-toyota-antifreeze-coolant-1-gallon-002721llac01

 

Here's a great article on automotive coolant and why choosing the correct type is important.

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/choosing-the-best-coolant-its-just-antifreeze-right

 

The radiator in my '07 failed recently. I replaced it with an an all aluminum Koyo racing radiator. Great, nice looking unit!

https://koyoradracing.com/news.asp?id=130

 

Do they offer one for a 1st Gen Tundra? ie 2000-2006 ?

 

I have my own pink milkshake story, hopefully wont be too long. I happen to work at a auto repair shop in the parts department. In Feb of 2020 I was on my way to work and about 1/2 mile away as I pulled away from a stop light I felt the tranny slip a little. At the next light same thing happened.
So I pull in to work and leave the truck running so I can check trans fluid. Open the hood and see the pink milkshake flowing out of the coolant overflow bottle. I think CRAP this isn't good.
They pull the truck in, replace radiator, hoses, and thermostat. Flush trans on a machine twice before fluid starts to look clean and clear. I drove it about 500 miles over a couple of weeks without any problems and then flushed one more time. Since then I have pulled my camper several times and once from OH to TN and back with no problems at all. Shifts great and trans temps stays between 160F and 210F in summer temps. So I guess long story short... I got lucky!!
Since I bought an aftermarket radiator(not knowing better at the time) I decided to by-pass the trans cooler as to not have that happen again. That was about 2 months ago and so far all is good!

 

I mean, its interesting reading but doesn't really say anything practical as to what you should use.

 

The take-away is that American, Asian, and European manufacturers use different materials in their engines, and therefore require different coolants to prevent corrosion/oxidation. So the notion that "I've used green coolant in my Chevy for decades and have never had a problem." doesn't make sense for your Toyota or Mercedes... that's all. It's not that one coolant is superior to the other, it's that you need to use the right coolant for the right application.

 

All you need to do is take one look at Noah's "crackie" truck and you'll get a good glimpse of what happens using the wrong coolant and/or mixing coolant colors (yellows and reds). Yellow/green isn't supposed to be used with our 4.7 IIRC... but not sure you can move to the proper coolant without a full flush to remove all the yellow, lest you get potentially caked.

Always wonder if those same people have insurance. $100 every 10-20 years on a single part known to be a point of failure is less than many people pay for 1-2mos of insurance required to drive.

 

Did I mention mixing colors? No, I stated Peak red and OEM red could be mixed. No worries though!

 

Very nice.

I believe my radiator has separate transmission cooler that is kinda sorta built into the main radiator.

Do you happen to know if Koyo would be able to handle that?

 

Hence the "and/or". No worries though!

Bigger focus would be on using the wrong color coolant IMO.

FYI, reason I quoted your post was due to your reply after Aerindel this quote:

In hindsight, I'm seeing I failed at Multi-Quote didn't and failed to add his quote, so I've edited my post to add that for context.

 

Sorry, I have no idea.

 

I looked for one on their website, but didn't see one for 1st Gens. I did find one for 1st Gens with 4.7L engines from Mishimoto and it has the in tank trans cooler. I've heard Mishimoto radiators are very nice as well.

https://www.mishimoto.com/toyota-tundra-performance-aluminum-radiator-2000-2006-v2.html

 

Found a less expensive radiator.

https://www.championradiators.com/Toyota-Tundra-Radiator-2000-2006

 

Pretty sure that may be a bit too tall? I seem to recall DC and AC/RC trucks have different clearance heights for the radiator.

 

Fact. When I replaced mine I was sold a radiator for a DC and it was too tall for my AC. Went back and got the correct one for my AC

 

Been needing to change my radiator. Assuming I have the right one for the DC? Denso 2210518. It's $158 plus shipping so almost $200.
I can get an OEM from my dealer for $177

 

It's probably still denso, that's what I got from the dealer, I knew it was denso when I bought it, but it's a more general one not the OEM specific. Like you'd get on rock auto, but not damaged by shipping.

 

Buyer beware. I put the all aluminum Koyo racing radiator on my truck and it lasted just over 2 years/20k miles before it sprung a leak where the tubes weld to the bottom tank. It could not be repaired and neither Koyo nor their vendor would do anything to help me out.

I was really disappointed because it seemed to be really solid and well built, but it just didn't last and they didn't support their product.

I replaced it with an OEM Denso unit that cost $200 less and will likely last 170k miles like the original one did.

 

I am running a Mishmoto radiator in my 2014 F150 and it is a nice unit. Coolant temps definitely dropped while towing and transmission temps surprisingly did as well by a few degrees.

 

Sooo my 06 DC had the radiator go out at 150K miles, got Denso (OEM) from Napa for $150ish. Wish I would've replaced it preemptively indicated by the brownish aged plastic. Did the thermostat too because it was only like $15. I would replace the hoses at the same time. I agree with @shifty` if you need to do your timing belt and water pump you'll be removing the radiator at the same time. Here's a photo of the crack, don't mind my creepy assistant in the background

 

I wonder why it couldn't be repaired. It's all aluminum. So, a weld shop that can do aluminum TIG should have been able to fix it easily.

A budget fix would have been to use JB Weld.

 

Tubes are too thin. They just melt away.

The tanks, filler neck, inlet/outlet are thick enough if those need work.

 

This thread has me wanting to change my '04 out, 150k miles.

 

Might as well do that rad and hoses while you're in there for the timing stuff

 

Cheap insurance maybe? Is it brownish? I would if it’s discolored, better you change it when it’s on your terms than in a parking lot haha

 

Bingo!

 

The radiator in my '05 DC went out at 270k miles - about 15 years. Seems like a worthwhile preventative maintenance item to me. I agree that starter and alternator will go out as well, but consequences of a radiator leak can be substantial. Glad I happened to see my temp gauge move when my radiator started to leak.