What are folks with Platinum and 1794s doing for extra switches?

Looks like there are no extra switch spots on the Platinum and 1794. What are the options for adding switch locations? I found a part number for the OEM credit card holder behind the shifter (58805-0C090-C0). Besides this, has anyone else added switch locations another way?

 

I did the SwitchPros and SDHQ mount
https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...-sdhq-shifter-panel-switch-pros-sp-9100-mount

 

Did you have to go with the $600 power panel system too? Or can you rig it with your own system and just use the mount?

 

Yeah i ended up buying the whole deal simply due to the ease of wiring.

I suppose you could buy their mount and put anything in the blank spot.


There are a ton of options to put switches in that spot with any Upfitter switch panel.
The issues I was avoiding is running a ton of wires in and out of the cab. The switchpro is simple and all your connection/wiring points are in the engine bay.
Here is a thread if you look into that route. If your just adding one or two switches I don't know if it would be worth the cost.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/switch-pros-9100-install.47597/page-3

 

If you don’t use all your home link garage door opener buttons you can also use those

 

I use this along with dual button switches on my bottom of the pile SR5. I've got 9 switches and 2 USB3.0 high amp chargers on this panel.

https://www.blackcatworks.com/Custo...e-25-Gen-Toyota-Tundra-2014-2021-MY_p_26.html

 

FS: 3 switch panel insert plate | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

This is intriguing. Do you know if there is a write up or schematics for this?

 

I run the Trigger 6 system made by ACS. I think they're primarily used by Jeep but I liked the configuration freedom they allow with their system. It's a wireless system so there will be moments of interference, depending on your environment but I haven't ran into any issues so far with the supplied switch panel.

I can control my light bars through the switch (which is tapped into a constant fuse), remove the switch panel and use it wirelessly outside the truck, connect through their app on my phone (which when connected is great because you can control the brightness and allow the lights to strobe), or directly through the trigger 6 system under the hood.

I double-side taped my switch panel at the front of the center console lid. If you have an early second gen, it's right where that ambient light is that shines at your center stack with the cupholders.

The only downsides are the app can be finicky and the battery drain on the switch remote can be bad, but I could be wrong on that one as I may have had near expiring batteries. I'm currently testing out my latest replacement batteries and they're running on a month so far.

 

You would purchase something like this (I have one in my garage just havent had the time to wire it all up. This would be your switch and you would use this as the switch to trigger a relay (which your device would be connected to). This RF has an operating range of 433mhz, and homelink operates between 300 and 433mhz. So, it should work in theory. Maybe if I can find a few minutes this week I could make a quick video for you all and post it up. I have some lights laying around so shouldnt take too long to set up.

$26 eMylo Smart WiFi Relay Switches Wireless 433Mhz RF Remote Control Light Switch Timer Controller for Household Appliance Compatible with Alexa, Google Home DC 5V 12V 24V 2 Channels

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JLXYLHW?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

You could always just buy a few of these and use the app in your phone
https://triggercontroller.com/trigger-one-bluetooth-relay/

 

The Trigger 4 or 6 looks pretty sweet. Could mount it to the center dash. I’ll definitely look into this more. Thanks for the rec

 

Have any pics of how you wired the Trigger 6? I have one that I need to install.

 

Sure, not too terribly difficult. I don't know which part you're referring to (trigger system or the switch panel).

For the trigger system, I didn't want anything permanent drilled into the fuse panel so I used heavy duty 3M velcro between the bottom of the trigger to the top lid of the fuse. Wired up the fused + and - and I believe that was it. No wires to throw into the firewall since it's a wireless system. I currently only have my light bar hooked up into slot 1 since that has the highest amp fuse (there are different amperages allowed for each slot).



For the trigger panel, I ran the hot and trigger wires to the internal fuse location and the ground cable to.. well, ground. Ran the wire up and underneath the steering column and then through the center shift knob area. You can barely see it on the right hand side of the switch panel where I have the double sided tape. I'm debating on getting an adapter mount since it has a flat surface and allows for a rotation adjustment. I just haven't committed yet to see how this current setup shapes up. I only hardwired everything a month ago. I'd been using everything either wirelessly or through the app.



Edit: Bonus photo of the trigger as a standalone.

 

Honestly I wanted the switchpro but couldn’t justify the cost. I went with

Nilight 6 Gang Switch Panel...

$110 Nilight 6 Gang Switch Panel Universal Circuit Control Relay System with Fuse Wiring Harness Automatic Dimmable ON-Off LED Switch Pod for Cars Trucks Boats ATV UTV SUV, 2 Years Warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08PS495R5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Really great kit in my opinion, only have to punch one hole in the firewall, relays all built in, makes for really clean installs.

 

Is your yellow lead for the trigger connected direct to battery or did you connect to a fuse inside the fuse box?

Love the location of the switches! I have been looking at the visor clip as an option but I will try your location first.

 

So does the trigger have the option to be wireless or hardwired? I didn’t think the trigger needed any hardwiring.

 

If you want the switches to be backlit you can wire to a power source. You can also tie in wired switches if you wanted to use them instead of the switches it comes with.

 

Here’s my setup……

 

I have been contemplating the Trigger...

 

After looking at it for a while I think I may go with the Trigger 4 Plus. Looks like a sweet, modular setup. I’m still confused at what @g6t9ed hard wired to the trigger or the purpose of it as I don’t see the trigger hard wire in the 4 Plus instructions. Maybe a 6 shooter feature? Or I’m oblivious to something going on.

 

For those who have the Trigger already, did you buy the generic one, Tacoma or 4 Runner kit?

 

Looks like the Trigger remote hardwire is 6 Shooter specific…

 

Generic for me.

 

Directly to the battery. I can take additional photos tomorrow.

You can see the fused red positive and yellow trigger wire are connected to the positive side of the battery.


If you switch the location, let me know. I've had this thing installed for a year but just decided a month ago to put it where I did. Been racking my brain on a good spot. So, if you find a better one, I'd like to know.

On mine, I had to double up on the double sided tape because of the curve of the backplate, just FYI.

Technically, both. I hardwired it so I don't completely rely on the battery.

Looks like others answered your question. I didn't know this wasn't an option on the 4.

Edit: Sorry, it looks like you answered your own question. I didn't see that you responded to it, lol. Along with the backlighting when it's on, I also use it to save the internal replaceable batteries as the hardwire keeps it useable.

 

@TunsofFon made a little video for you. I will say there is a little bit of a delay using the homelink and it can be spotty but it might be much better(or worse) with the receiver under the hood. Not sure how the metal hood would interfere or if the shortened distance would make it more reliable. As it’s currently set up, I’m not sure I would run it as a primary switch, but it is a nice option to have. Let me know if you have any questions
https://youtube.com/shorts/sLrcNZc6110?feature=share

 

Cool idea and simple enough. I’m 99% sure I’m going to go with the Trigger 4 plus. If I ever find myself needing more than 4 inputs I may use this setup too.
Thanks for the inspiration

 

No problem. I will say that my homelink sucks in general. It will drop programming and not open the garage door often. I actually stopped using it and went to a traditional garage door opener and keep it as a backup. So if your truck’s homelink works better than mine, it could be a viable option. Just don’t want to sell someone on something I haven’t fully vetted. And yeah that trigger 4 looks sweet! Good luck with whatever you go with

 

Well, well…look at what came in yesterday…

 

How did the install go for you? I just picked one up during Black Friday. I haven't installed mine yet.