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Flashing 4 Lo, Malfunction indicator, and Trac Off lights all on, I need some help here

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by ChadGrissom, May 16, 2017.

  1. May 16, 2017 at 7:12 PM
    #1
    ChadGrissom

    ChadGrissom [OP] New Member

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    Long story short, 2012 Tundra Crewmax, driving and I notice my 4 Lo light flashing, as well as the Malfunction Indicator and Trac Off lights are on, at the time didn't notice a difference in drive, finish the 11 miles to my parents, I called 3 different dealerships to talk to an advisor to get a better idea of what was going on and no dice, nobody was available at 5:37pm on a Tuesday night (thanks Toyota), anyways did some quick research and one of the online remedies was to disconnect the battery to reset the system, which I did, lights went out and stayed out for the 35 miles home and I'm not sure if it was paranoia or overly heightened senses but the truck seemed to feel a little sluggish, came straight home and now I'm researching for a possible fault before I head in to the dealership tmrrw, any insight would be very helpful, thank you in advance, Scouts Out
     
  2. May 16, 2017 at 7:24 PM
    #2
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    You'll need to drive it until the Check Engine Light comes on and then have the codes read to have much idea what's going on. Anything else is mere speculation.
     
  3. May 16, 2017 at 7:25 PM
    #3
    ChadGrissom

    ChadGrissom [OP] New Member

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    I was afraid of that
     
  4. May 16, 2017 at 7:57 PM
    #4
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon approved Staff Member

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    AIP is my guess- I had that on my 2012 and Toyota warrantied is at that time. @sdhq_offroad makes an AIP bypass kit
     
    kenomouth64 and zcarpenter92 like this.
  5. May 16, 2017 at 8:08 PM
    #5
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon approved Staff Member

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  6. May 16, 2017 at 8:09 PM
    #6
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon approved Staff Member

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  7. May 16, 2017 at 8:38 PM
    #7
    T-Rex266

    T-Rex266 Elon approved Staff Member

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    You appear correct :thumbsup:
     
  8. May 16, 2017 at 9:01 PM
    #8
    ChadGrissom

    ChadGrissom [OP] New Member

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    Bilstein 5100 front (Level) and back, K&N Ram Air Intake, Flowmaster Cat back dual, Toyo 295/65R20 on XD Misfit 20X9
    So a big question in my mind is, if it is infact an AIP issue, can I still drive it safely and without damaging my truck, until I can get the issue rectified? Tmrrw I'm going to take it to the dealership and depending on the diagnosis I'll go from there, dealership is 10ish miles away, and I'm in the Army guys so I have to go to work regardless
     
    JTP likes this.
  9. May 17, 2017 at 4:27 AM
    #9
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Sounds like you're going to have to. Maybe the CEL will come on too, sometimes a dealer is reluctant to check anything if it isn't. But they can use their TechStream software to see if there are any permanent codes set, that may help determine what's going on.
     
  10. May 17, 2017 at 5:44 AM
    #10
    chphilo

    chphilo Tundra addict

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    I had my lights blinking the other day. I was thinking, oh $hit, it must be the AIP. Took it to Advance Auto and the code was MAF sensor and O2 sensor. I disconnected the battery. lights went away for a few days, then came back. I was going to try to clean the MAF sensor so I I opened to hood, disconnected the battery again, attempted to take the sensor out. The sensor wouldn't budge. Took the engine cover off for some elbow room, and what do you know, the tube from the intake to the engine came off. I connected it and tightened it, and that solved the problem.

    Wouldn't hurt to look.

    Loose.jpg
     
    JTP, T-Rex266, Wynnded and 2 others like this.
  11. May 17, 2017 at 6:00 AM
    #11
    LS2

    LS2 New Member

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    I have a similar issue with my 2008 RAV4. The check engine didn't come on though. But the ABS, brake light, slippery indicator, & tire pressure light came on. Took it in, and cost me close to $800 to fix and that's with my 20% discount. Then the following year, the same thing happen. Took it back in, and Toyota said it was a sensor. That cost me almost $300 to fix. A month later, the lights came back on. Took it back to Toyota. This time cost me $500 to fix. All the lights came on each time I took it in but Toyota keep saying it's different part that is causing the lights to come on so that one year warranty on their service didn't work. Lights haven't came back on since February on hopefully never do because I spend too much $$$ to get that fix.
     
  12. May 17, 2017 at 9:11 AM
    #12
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    Elaborate on what you mean by the Malfunction Indicator. What's it look like?
     
  13. May 17, 2017 at 4:48 PM
    #13
    ChadGrissom

    ChadGrissom [OP] New Member

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    Its the check engine light, but I went to the dealership this morning and they couldn't find anything, so either it was a glitch that was rectified by disconnecting the battery, or I absent mindedly cleared the codes by disconnecting the battery and will have to keep driving until I get the warnings, I don't feel or notice a change in drive so I'm out of ideas
     
  14. May 17, 2017 at 5:09 PM
    #14
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    I guess it's just wait and see.
     
  15. May 29, 2017 at 6:52 PM
    #15
    ChadGrissom

    ChadGrissom [OP] New Member

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    UPDATE;

    So after driving it (without indicator lights for around 180 miles) I noticed a lull/surge at around 2500ish rpms, lights came back on eventually, got the codes read, I misplaced the printout of the codes, but it pointed towards a dirty/bad MAF sensor, I picked up a can of MAF sensor cleaner, cleaned the sensor, and my estimated mileage went from 310 on a full tank to 441, truck seemed to run better, more noticeable horse power and throttle response, well today (which was the first time on the freeway +70mph since, I noticed the same lull/surge if you will, right around 2500rpm, mostly when going uphill at 65ish mph, I can push passed it into 3k+ and no difference in shift or engine nature, I've already cleaned the MAF, and now I'm cleaning the air filter as just a check the block, I've read everything from fuel filter to AIP to O2 sensors and beyond, anybody have any ideas? Next check the block are the plugs (I'm at 62K so they need to be changed), after that whatever is cheapest first, my kid is 3 months out so money is tight, thank you in advance
     
  16. May 29, 2017 at 8:05 PM
    #16
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    You really shouldn't need plugs at that mileage and I don't think there's a fuel filter. Ditch the K&N and put your original air box back in. That's free. It's too easy to over-oil them and they allow too much dirt in.
     
  17. May 29, 2017 at 8:52 PM
    #17
    ChadGrissom

    ChadGrissom [OP] New Member

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    I'm going to pull the plugs just to check, I put the K&N system in maybe 25K ago and have cleaned it and charged it twice since then, not counting tonight, it was fairly clean and I'm light on the oil, the MAF wasn't bad, which leads me to believe it's something else
     
  18. May 30, 2017 at 5:16 AM
    #18
    Wynnded

    Wynnded What MPG...

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    There's still the idea that going back to the factory air box would totally eliminate the K&N as a possibility. Knowing the codes might be insightful as well.
     
  19. Mar 23, 2023 at 9:10 PM
    #19
    SequioaFamily

    SequioaFamily New Member

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    Ever figure out the issue? I had this happen today. Started with 4lo dash light blinking by itself. Then the VCS/traction light and finally check engine light. Didn’t seem to affect driving at all. OBD code thrown was for a transmission solenoid which could also be loose cable/jacket or harness or wires rather than solenoid itself. I cleared error to see if it occurs again. Hope it’s not really my transmission given we just end turned 200k miles on a 2010. Still going strong too!
     
  20. Jun 13, 2023 at 9:20 AM
    #20
    White Falcon

    White Falcon New Member

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    Had to have 1st, rt, bank valve replaced. Check, sway, and swerve lights came on. I reset the coads and same thing happened. Valve was $400.plus.
     

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