Suspension upgrade...tow 5000lbs and mostly street driving

Is it safe to say ¼" spacer is safe to level every truck or does it vary?

 

It typically will vary. Some trucks lean more than others

 

So I pretty much ordered everything i believe let me know if I'm missing something.

Wheelersoffroad.com
Wheelers 3 leaf aal
Wheelers diff drop
Wheelers strut mount
Wheelers SS brake lines
Ome 2885
Wheelers ¼" aluminum spacer ( if I need it for the driver side)
SPC alignment cam

Rockauto.com
AC Delco tie rod ends
MevoTech terrain tuff LBJ with grease fitting
Ac Delco LCA

Bilsteinlift.com
Bilstein 5100 Front and rear

CVJ.com
CV Red inner boot

Amazon
Energy suspension power steering bushing
Energy suspension isolators

Suspensionmax.com
Ext swey end links

 

Its very common to see the driver sit 1/4-1/2" lower. We build a shim to correct this.

https://shop-coachbuilder.myshopify...lift-tundra-99-06?_pos=4&_sid=00c7bb97d&_ss=r

 

Shit only if I knew yesterday I ordered a ¼" shim for the driver side. Hopefully it's enough if not I will have to take everything apart again and install the correct side which I'll order from you. Also I'm assuming I have to wait some time for suspension to settle before alignment and measuring the difference?

 

So before I tackle this front end rebuild, I have a question is everyone using the 5100 and 2885 coils on the 1st or 2nd clip?

I want the most lift possible as I have 2.5" left now and not sure how the 5100 will compare with the Rancho quick lift.

Also is there a particular position the coil has to be ? Some people say yes other no. I'm referring to the end of the coil . I read it has to be centered with the wheel.

 

Anyone have some input on circlip locations on the 5100? Using 2885 coil 1,2 or 3rd postion?

Also I realized that the poly isolators don't have a cutout for the 3 bolts on the strut mount so the isolator doesn't set flush. My ocd wants to cut some of the poly so it can set flush. Not sure if anyone noticed or had the same issue.

 

I feel like those isolators will be flush when compressed.

 

1st notch. 2nd may end up too tall. And the isolator will compress enough to not care

 

Excellent so 1st notch will give me 2" or 2.5?

 

Ehhh my
Measurements before and after we’re 2.25”, but mine was original suspension with 200k miles and a rollover under their belt

 

I have 2885 with Bilstein 5100s on the bottom notch. I got ~2.75" but I am 2WD and have the 4.0L. I would keep them on the bottom notch because it rides better.

 

Just saw your post on the other thread with measurements from center to fender. Was trying to go back and see if anyone has used the 2nd notch.

Shit know I'm not sure if I should go 1st or 2nd notch. Is the ride that bad with using the 2nd notch or is it something else that can go bad?

 

What's the distance between notches? 1/4"?

The rate of lift is approximately 2:1, so each 1/4" = 1/2" lift.

Thats why those 1/4" leveling spacers give about 1/2" of lean correction.

 

The higher you go, the more preload. More preload = rougher ride. I’m on first notch and the rides fantastic. I’m sure 2nd isn’t a lot worse. But it won’t be as nice

 

@empty_lord did you install a diff drop kit? Is it needed for 5100 on the 2nd notch?

 

I don’t have one. On 2nd notch it’s probably not a bad idea

 

Ok I have one so I'll install it I also noticed that my carrier bearing is loose so I'm changing that out also. By any chance do you know what the best time determine the angle of the driveshaft for are trucks? Not sure if I need to install small spacer on the carrier bearing bracket.

 

I mean if it’s not vibrating I wouldn’t worry about angles

 

I agree, but in my case after a pretty good lift in the rear and more travel coming, I just looked at the driveline and ordered a drop kit for the support bearing. 2WD and completely different set up for me. My front u joint can spare a bit for my mid and rear.

 

The issue I have is I feel a little vibration around 70 MPH but not sure what it can be. Once I finish up next week with UCA, LCA, outer tie rod, CVJ boots, aal, power steering bushing, 5100, clamshell bearing, diff drop and carrier bearing. I'll get an alignment and go from there.

 

@empty_lord I'm I doing something wrong or did I get the wrong parts. This spring gave my Branick compressor a work out. The issue I'm having is that it looks like the strut mount is not straight with the shock and spring. Hard to tell from the pictures but hopefully you can see of something is off.

 

Can you take a closer picture of the bottom perch?

 

Is this better?

 

Yeah, is it sitting just a little off? I have no idea if that's the cause though.

 

What do you mean by off a little ?

 

Where I circled doesn't look flush

 

Ok im going to try to see if it improves it.

 

Ok so I fix it but still the top is not squared with the shock or coil. Also is it normal for the top rubber bushing to mushroom like this.

 

The slight bow in the spring is normal.