New member + old truck + dead cylinder

Doesn't look like it. There's a little oil/grime around the base of the dipstick, but that's about all I see.

 

Trust me, run a compression test on all 8 if you haven't already. Before you start ordering parts. Just sayin'. Got bitten on that one previously.

 

Good call on that. That’ll be tomorrow’s after work project

 

Well I got one good crank outta her until the starter bendix stopped engaging. So I guess that’s tonight’s new project….

 

350 and it has decent looking aftermarket headers? not a bad deal even with the miles.

 

Yup, came with a set of JBAs that I'll definitely be using.

Little bit of progress tonight. Got the new motor off the engine hoist.
Pulled the radiator, removed the hood, and started disconnecting some of the wiring, getting ready to pull the old motor

 

Don't forget to label things. Painters tape is yo' fren.

 

Camera is good too!

 

Sometimes it's the simplest stuff we forget Pics, pics, pics.

Back when I was doing a lot of GenIII swaps, my general rule of thumb was, "If you remove a connector, wrap green painters tape around it". That way you can easily spot if it's not connected after reinstall. You don't even need to label what it is really, if you're feeling lazy.

Bonus from doing both: Wrap each connector you know you'll need to remove with painters tape before removing it, then snap pics from multiple angles. When the new engine is installed, you have a comparison point, make sure all the painters taped spots are back in the same place again.

 

Similar idea here. I number every electrical connector/vacuum hose and its connection with a sharpie and painters tape, from 1 to whatever. All of the fasteners go either back in their hole or into a plastic bag with a label scribbled on it for where they came from. I take some pictures also, but not as many as I probably ought to. With the new engine, you might have to put the two engines side by side and transfer the tape pieces one at a time until you have them all accounted for or something.

 

Making some decent progress today. Got the old engine just about ready to pull. Hoist is hooked up and all.

But the getting the motor mounts off is straight up kicking my ass…. I thought they were going to be the easy part

 

Might as well replace while you're in there, if the rubber even looks moderately blown. I love Energy Suspension's stuff, but folks here may have other suggestions. Not sure if they even make anything for our Tundras.

 

Kinda my opinion too, if I was having any isdues at all, my plasma cutter and 5 min. would resolve the problem.

 

Got the mounts out finally, and yeah, I'll probably be picking up a new set.
Wish somebody was making poly blocks, but all I can find is the oem rubber stuff.

Now I'm just fighting with getting the motor to actually come out... I'll probably take another shot at it after dinner, but I think I've had just about enough fun for today..

 

I've heard past complaints about rigidity and squeaking with poly on engine mounts, so it may be better you're going all rubber.

 

Solid offroad makes poly mounts for the engine.

 

The motor is out!
Just pulling that thing kicked my ass worse than I expected. But she’s out now.

I think tomorrow after work is just clean up day. Looks like the old motor was leaking so the whole engine bay needs a good wash.

 

Easy part now done!

 

Might be a long shot anybody knows off the top of their head…. But do y’all think the 4wd wiring hardness that came with the new motor will work with the 2wd truck?

It has extra wires going into the bulkhead plugs. L But if that’s all they are, just extra wires that won’t hurt anything…

I’d prefer to use the 4wd harness, since it’s in better condition. And just to have one step of an eventual 4x4 conversion done.

 

No. Pin outs are different on some things. So unless you have the 4x4 ecu too, it will cause electrical gremlins


The 4x4 ecus are electrically different from the 4x2

 

Damn.... Not the answer I wanted, but the answer I needed....

Now back to this timing belt

 

General rule of thumb I share with everyone who's ever brought it up on here: Doesn't matter what you're sticking in what - ALWAYS use the harness matching the ECU, then adapt the engine sensors to suit the harness. Trust me on this one, it's the biggest mistake I see other people make on drivetrain swaps. 99% of the extra work is easy stuff: Maybe moving some sensors and such over from old engine to new. Yes, it sucks. But you DO NOT want to be chasing gremlins from bad pinouts later. Someone else recently had that and was neck-deep in the OEM elec wiring diagrams to switch pins around in connectors. Not fun, those damn diagrams are really crappy (IMO) to read.

During my first drivetrain swap (LS/GenIII GM) it's what someone advised me and everyone I've seen ignore that has been in a world of pain with modern EFI engine swaps.

 

Well, spent a fair bit more time on this than I expected. But the original 2wd harness is all cleaned up and ready to go. Degreased it all, replaced a few plugs, rewrapped all the old tape that was peeling off from being soaked in oil, and got her looking as good as she’s going to.

 

New starter, alternator, coil packs, plugs, injectors, timing belt+water pump, and wiring harness.

Think she’s finally ready to drop in the truck.
I’ve had just about enough fun with motors for now…. I can’t wait to move on to more cosmetic work and new bumpers.

 

Hell yeah! Good job!

 

Why does it look like someone smashed your oil filter?

 

I didn’t do an oil change yet, so it just got beat up during moving I expect. I also crushed it some more with a strap wrench making sure it wasn’t totally seized while I can still get to it.

 

So I finally pulled apart the old motor…
Thought for sure I was gonna find an exploded piston, but it was just a valve.