Ask the Toyota mechanic!

Nope, just leave it in the "run" position. You can let sit out and ask to wake up the sensors. They are in a sleep state and adding the air wakes them up.

 

is this the reset? For tpms sensors

 

Im needing the exact steps nothing is happening..

 

Pushing the reset button will reset the psi when the tpms low tire pressure warning will come on. So if you set your ties at 35psi the will come on roughly 25psi. Set the tire pressure to 50psi, push the reset button and warning will come on at 40psi (approx). It takes awhile for the psi to be displayed. Take the truck for a ride and it should reset. The only reason it wouldn’t display the pressure is if you changed the wheel sensors and didn’t register them, you don’t have sensors or the batteries are all dead in all four sensors (very unlikely).

 

Sounds like i need to register one rrear
One was replaced all other three were reading fine and then all went blank

 

this is the reset correct

 

Correct.

 

Could you walk me through the proper steps..

 

If you replaced one of the wheel sensor the ID# that is printed on the sensor has to be registered using Techstream.

 

Each wheel sensor has a unique ID# that is used by tpms module. Using Techstream you can see these ID#. If the ID numbers are not shown in the data stream then they have to be register so the truck can see them.

 

All four ID shows on techstream

one was replaced at tire shop three were reading but the one sensor on the right rear wasn't.. all of them now are recalibrating going on days now…

can techstream recover or scan a new sensor ID?

 

Techstream can’t scan the sensors. The IDs your seeing on Techstream are likely the old IDs that were registered. You need a hand held scan tool to read the IDs. The IDs are also printed on each sensor.

 

Code: P2757
Meaning: torque converter clutch pressure control solenoid circuit

2007 Toyota Tundra, RCLB, 4x4, 4.7L V8 base model

Truck had transmission shudder, fixed with transmission additive (a couple months ago- shudder had been going on for a long time)

Where should I start? transmission drain and fills? Replace transmission filter? things I should check?

 

Side note, code only seams to pop up when cruising on longer drives (not in the city) 65+ mph for hour+ drives

 

How many miles on the truck? Have you change the fluid and if you have how does it look? If it’s been shuttering for awhile it’s possible the TC clutch may be gone. It happens more at 65mph on the highway because that’s when the TC clutch is on most of the time.

 

the fluid has not been changed recently, I did double check the level and it didn't look that dark, not bright red but like a dark red... the shuddering would happen at lower speeds while accelerating (25-30 mph, 1000-2000 RPM)

Is the TC clutch in the TC? Or is that something separate to be replaced?

 

Yes the clutch is in the TC. You can buy a new TC but most off the time with the clutch fails the material ends up contaminating the rest of the transmission. I’m assuming you know the procedure for checking the level? The reason I asked the mileage on the transmission is because you don’t want to dump a large sum of money into it and get stuck changing it out later.

 

oh yes, I'm sorry I didn't answer that question, the truck has 230k on it and original transmission, I do know how to check the level

do several fluid changes then change the TC?

 

also, I know how to check the level with a scanner and just watching temp then pulling the check plug

I was seeing how some guys were waiting till the "D" (assuming shifter) light came on then they pulled the plug? Do I need techstream for that?

 

I would get Techstream. It will help you with diagnosing the problem and setting the trans fluid level. Start with a fluid change since the oil is dirty and it will give you an idea on the the condition. Without good ATF a transmission will never perform correctly. I don’t recommend just changing the TC. Contaminates from the TC end up circulating through the transmission. I seen quite a few techs change out just the TC and have the shudder issue come up after a couple of weeks. The contaminates will end up back into the new TC and cause issues. You end up having to purchase another TC and the transmission.

Personally if it was me I would get Techstream and scan for codes and look at the datastream for TC lock up. My feeling is your going to be in for a transmission and TC. With the mileage that you have on your transmission and because the problems has been going on for awhile I would skip the fluid changes to save some money and find a good used transmission with a warranty.

 

what exactly would I be looking for on the TC lockup data stream? And I’ve got about a gallon of ATF, should I just drain and fill just to see? Or just skip it like you said and go for a remanufactured or used trans?

 

With Techstream you can control the TC lock up or disable it. On the data stream you can see when it actually when it on or off while driving which will help diag. You can also do a healthcheck. It’s your call of the trans fluid but my feeling is that 4 quarts won’t actually help much on a transmission that has around 12 quarts. You might want to save it for the replacement transmission.

There is a thread on the forum about where to get Techstream for free and what interface to use on your laptop. I posted in that thread on a OBD2 interface that works very well and the cost is quite reasonable.

 

so what if I just disabled the TC lockup? I guess that would limit drive ability?

then second thought, what if I replaced the TC and fluid, how long would it take a contaminated new TC to give me real issues? What if I used the shudder fix again?

thank you for the info on Techstream! I’ll look into that!

 

There is no way you can permanently stop lockup with Techstream. You could manually shift it to 3rd gear and it would stay out of lockup but that really isn’t practical.

If you’re going to replace the TC you might as well just change out the tranny since you already have it off. I don’t recommend just the TC with a fluid change. The TC will start failing again and you will be doing it all over again. There really isn’t any way to predict how long it would last. It all depends on the condition of the transmission. I’ve seen them fail with just a TC change in a couple of days and others last a month. Any additive that you add is just a band-aid and can’t fix a mechanical issue.

 

yeah I figured, so transmission it is; thank you so much for the help and information!!

 

If you do end up changing the transmission remember to clean or replace the transmission cooler. The clutch material from the TC can block the flow to the cooler. They do make a transmission cooler cleaner. You spray it into the cooler line then use compressed air to blow it clean. Personally I would just replace it. Either take the one off the donor Tundra or get an aftermarket. They are very hard to clean completely out.

Good luck.

 

Seen this issue lately on any 21s?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/help-power-steering-failure.97295/

 

I read the whole thread. It’s not common for previous years and it’s the same rank and pinion.

 

New thought- I used to work at a mechanic shop… what if I used the transmission flush machine (uses the transmission’s pump, not an external one) and pumped like 30 Qts through it, then replaced the TC?

 

I know you really don’t want to replace the tranny but do you want to put money into a high mileage transmission on a gamble? I’ve used that type of fluid exchange machine as well and it a safe way to change the transmission fluid but it will not remove any debri that’s in the transmission. It’s a gamble but the odds are not in your favour and in the end it could end up costing you more.