Remote Start not working

I have a 2017 Tundra that the remote start stopped working on. I believe this stopped working after I installed some aftermarket headlights (link below for the headlights). All other functions on my key fob work perfectly.

My headlights

Engine 5.7liter
Mods:
SR5 with factory remote start
Blacked out rear break lights
Swapped out for a black grill and black hood bulge.
Miles: 62k
Owned for about 18 months

 

what headlights? Is the remote start aftermarket or factory? are they headlights cheaper units? Yes, adding LED bulbs or cheaper led headlights can cause issues like that.

 

link in my post





Definition of a cheaper unit? I paid over $360 for them

 

some LED lights emit radio frequencies which may interfere with wireless electronics

 

I was asking if the headlights are a name brand or cheaper Chinese units, like ebay specials. Do you know what brand? If so, you could google those lights and remote start issues and probably get some hits.

Have you removed the lights to see if remote start will work if they are not plugged in? That way you will know if it is the lights or something else. Im betting it is related to the lights. There are several reports of LED bulbs/lights being installed that cause issues with the fob or remote start. Example- putting a led in the cargo light, lots of folks have had that problem, somehow the led bulbs create interference.

When you installed the lights, did you disconnect the battery? If not, could be a fuse popped.

 

The reason the link was it was the exact headlights I purchased from the same site

Brand Spyder. I will look into that

I have the LED cargo lights and the remote worked after that

Cargo light

Also led brake lights and remote worked after that also

Brake lights

I installed them back in January and just found these forums today so i dont remember if i disconnected the battery I will check fuses

Thanks for some tips Frank

 

Wasn't there something about one of the service agreements that runs out and takes the remote start with it? Even the keyfob remote start?

 

I know the 3rd brake light interferes with it.

I had a bad one, made my range go down to 2m. Swapped it out and I'm back to factory remote range.

 

@frichco228 is correct. Some LEDs release EMIs which interfere with the remote start capability.

I would try and eliminate the LEDs from the Cargo lights first, the module for remote start is to the rear of the hump of the rear seats.

 

Is there a hood pin for the remote start? if so does anyone know where it is?

 

It worked for 7+ months with 0 issues after replacing the cargo light. I doubt that is the issue. I noticed it not working after replacing my headlights and grill.

The other reason i am asking about a hood pin. That is where a lot of google searches lead me

 

That is a good point and useful information.

If its your headlights you can try to shield them with grounded RF blocking material, it may or may not isolate the interference.

 

The headlights would need to be on in order for them to emit EMI, no? If you're having problems starting with the headlights off, I would assume your problem is elsewhere. Also, they didn't move the antenna to the cargo light until 2018 MY.

 

You don't have one. Does your Tundra have the display in the cluster showing if the doors are open or the hood is up? You'd be showing a fault there if the latch was the problem. Did you have to move/remove the latch to change the grill?

 

I found this to try and cover the headlights:

$13 Faraday Fabric-EMI RFID Shielding-Block WiFi/RF Military Grade for Radiowave Microwave and Other Electromagnetic Fields 39"x43" inch

https://www.amazon.com/Fabric-EMI-S...t=&hvlocphy=9026270&hvtargid=pla-640829222315

but @19TurdPro brings up a great point on the EMI. Which would bring me back to the hood pin idea or possible fuse. I already checking the fuses on my lunch and couldnt find anything for remote start. Any idea which fuse?

 

I did change the grill when I changed my headlights and all I had to do is remove the 4~ 10mm bolts on the top and pop it out.

I also changed the hood bulge 2 weeks before i changed the grill but that was just the 6~ bolts to replace that

 

Both fuse boxes, or just the one under the dash. I don't see a fuse specific to "remote start", but there is a 7.5A fuse in the panel under the hood that says "starting system". There are other "starting system" fuses, but that one is sus to me.

 

Also, I don't know about your truck, but on mine, the truck determines if the hood is open by the latch. I doubt its the case but I wonder if the combo of the new bulge and grill require the latch to be adjusted. On my truck, the display in the instrument cluster tells me the hood is not latched. Not sure about yours.

 

I only quickly checked the under the hood fuses on my lunch break, didnt look at the one inside the cab. I will look for starting system fuse when I get home.

I also just a test on the settings just a moment. I turned off the setting for headlight feedback on doors locked/unlocked and still didn't work.

 

I can't say it will definitively work. Its worth a try before swapping lights out. You can try with foil first before going with EMI mesh.

Edit: EMI tape may work as well. Not sure what is good.

 

That's only if you're using Toyota Connected Services which didn't come out until 2020.

 

If he has the Toyota remote start it will not work if there are engine codes or if the remote start itself has codes. Codes within the module of the remote start will not turn on any lights. You need to use Techstream and look at the data stream.

Does the remote start work with the long range remote and not with the key fob?

 

First off tested that fuse last night. It is fine.

Second I don't have a long range key fob I just have the basic 3 button fob. For the remote start to work I press the lock button 3 times.

 

Then you need Techstream. My suspicion is that the module has set a code. Clear it and it should work. I’ve seen where the Toyota remote start will not work with the short range remote (the fob) but will work with the long range. That’s the reason I asked if you had the long range.

 

Good chance to remove the garbage OEM remote start and get the Tech12volts

 

@Ruggybuggy Just want to confirm you dont think its an EMI from the headlights? (this didnt make sense cause my fob still works with a long range, i tested yesterday and was locking the doors from over 50ft)

 

The first remote start from Toyota weren’t great. The first ones that came out with had a very short range. A couple of years later they came out with a long range version. The problem with them is that even though you could use Techstream to diag them they weren’t like other modules in the vehicle. They could have a code and stop working and the owner would never know why.

I just now see now that the OP’s truck is a 2017. He should have the long range version. The long range came out in 2015. If the vehicle was bought used the previous owner didn’t turn in the remote.

 

Disable the headlights and try it but I think it’s unlikely. My wife’s Camry has the Toyota remote start and she has led headlight bulbs in hers.

Where’s your long range remote?

 

I’m also assuming that you hood is fully closed and that your doors are all fully closed and your pushing the remote lock three times and holding on the third press? You are getting confirmation back from the truck as you press the lock button?

 

I brought the truck used 18~ months ago and didn't get the long range remote.

you are assuming correctly on what I am doing with the hood and doors being closed. Every time I press the lock (or unlock) button on my fob I get a beep and the lights will flash. I tested yesterday the range some and could still see lights flashing when 50~ ft away with it.

I also tested this yesterday. I popped my head and didn't get an indication that the hood was open on the display in the truck.