What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

Started this a few days ago, just got around to pictures. I don't daily drive the Tundra...I really only ever use it on the weekends. I think i have only put about 40 miles on it since August. After all that sitting, my battery was completely discharged. I'm still not convinced something didn't run it down, but no lights were left on. I took out my Bluetooth obd reader for good measure. Battery held to 12.4V after being charged last weekend.

The fun part- I bought a battery tender and ran a permanent cable to my battery. I zip tied the lead end to the side of my tow hook. I adjusted the length so I can tuck the plug above thr skid plate for driving. My last step is to work out a system so I don't back out while connected to power.

Edit: The ring terminal cable that comes with the battery tender is nowhere near long enough if you want to connect with the hood closed. I extended it by about 7ft to run it across and down to my right tow hook. 14gauge grey jacketed cable is only .69c from super bright leds. It's good stuff that I also used to run constant power to my cap. Link.

 

Call it “first timer paranoia” since it was my first time doing any oil change I wanted to get it from the dealership and price wasn’t bad either for their synthetic oil. For the differential yes first time previous owner had engine oil change maintenance record only and I’m glad you said it looks fine considering that my tundra is a daily driver, I’ve had multiple trips and have taken it to a few off road areas

 

Nothing you have shared would give me any concerns. Toyota has been known to spec Mobile 1 for some other applications. I feel pretty safe with that brand regardless. I'm actually running the Valvoline one right now, however.

Good luck with the new rig.

 

great idea! I’ll keep that noted!

 

Nothing visible but was able to revalve my ADS shocks.

 

Leather steering wheel stitched wrap. Took forever but definitely worth it.

 

Installed a Pop/lock on my tailgate. For those unaware, this solenoid unit will lock the tailgate when I lock the doors with the remote. Might do it with the key in the drivers' door, though I haven't tried that. Anyway, I have a hard tonneau cover so locking the tailgate adds a bit of security for the stuff I have in there.

The install was pretty straight forward but there were a couple of hiccups. First was that the splice instructions were wrong for my year. I found a video on youtube that had the splice more appropriate for my 2010. Seems the two wires to splice were the white wire and the blue wire in the pic below. The video uploader said to connect the blue Pop/lock wire to the white harness wire and the green Pop/lock to the blue harness wire as pictured.

Parenthetically, I should mention that the white and blue OE harness wires go into the third blue harness plug from the top in that series of four blue plugs. These are found in the passenger side foot well under the cover.


On my truck that turned out to be backwards. What happened is that when I unlocked the doors, the tailgate locked. When I locked the doors, the tailgate unlocked. So I swapped the wires to blue Pop/lock wire to blue harness wire and green Pop/lock wire to white harness wire as pictured below. Worked like a charm.



The other complication was that the solenoid arms that move the gate lock pin were too high and would slip off of the pin. So I extended the pin with a vacuum plug I had sitting around. Seems to have worked perfectly. I didn't get a before pic but you can see the plug sitting between the arms of the solenoid in the pic below.


With those two issues resolved, the rest was a very clean install with all of the parts to make it look OEM. The pic below illustrates one of the OEM looking harness grommets that accommodates the back up cam and the Pop/lock harness.


Everything else was equally clean looking.

Well that's it for today.

 

Admire the determination and thanks for the write up on this!

 

Looks great! Do you have a link for the specific one you bought?
And did you take off the airbag, or did the cover just pull tight into the gaps?

 

Very nice. Been meaning to do this for a while, but couldn't figure if the OE kit was REALLY incompatible with the 2.25 Gen.

Good to hear that the pop-lock is fairly decent and complete.

I will order one of these if my research (or lack there of) does not pan out.

 

Has anyone made a non-splice kit? A t-tap with the correct connectors? I'd do it if I didn't have to cut into the factory harness.

I got a @Puppypunter t-tap for my cap's brake light.

 

Finally installed a dash cam. Wish I could have mounted it a little higher, but the tint on the top part of the windshield is a little too dark to get a clear picture. I did go with the hardwire kit instead of the cigarette lighter option. The one I installed was the NextBase 222 model.

 

Put some jumper cables on mine to help a fellow Tacoma owner jump his truck at the gas station.

 

Wired in fog lights on new bumper.

 

Official welcome

And no photos…how dare you sir!

 

Someone does....or rather says she does. She sells them on ebay but takes your money and doesn't deliver. Won't communicate either. I bought one of her kits. She marked it as shipped but with no tracking number. She's only one State away from me but 20 days later I received nothing. Got my money back and bought the Pop/lock kit. It's really no big deal to tap into the OE harness. I've only been set up for a day but it's really nice to be able to lock the tailgate with my fob.

 

Had some goof off time today. Weather was nice. Wife was with her sister so I fixed a couple of inconsequential but nagging things. First item was my jiggly fog lights. When I installed my Morimoto fog lights I noticed they were kind of loose in the housing. Not Morimoto's fault. It seems even OEM fogs are loose. I could see the light bouncing on reflective signs while driving on the freeway. So I decided to tighten them up somehow.

In the pic below you can see I removed top screw in the heat sink and slipped a looped zip tie behind where the screw goes. It also helps to loosen the two bottom screws 3/4 of a turn. Once the loop was in place I re-installed the top screw and tightened the bottom screws.



Next I threaded a longer zip tie through the adjustment housing and looped it through the first loop. Then I snugged it up just enough to put downward pressure until the looseness stopped. Cut off the excess and schwing! no more jiggly lights.



Next I refinished the cowl piece under the wiper arms. It's that weathered looking grayish black plastic part that makes the lower windshield area look ghetto. I know, it doesn't matter. Yes I'm a pansy for letting it bug me. So sue me. Here it is below having been scrubbed with dawn and water and dried.



Not too bad relative to my crusty tailgate with the crappy bed liner job, but it doesn't even stay this nice. It gets ugly fast. You can see I removed the skinny glass seal and fat weather seal.

Below is the finished product. Much better.



And here it is reassembled and installed. I painted the wiper arms too with engine ceramic satin.



Super extra way better. lol

 

I actually need to paint my wiper arms, paint is all gone on the top, they just unbolt off like it looks?

 

Yep. One 13 mm nut gets them off. They are friction bound to the stud so you'll need to rock the arm back and forth to free it from the stud. Word to the wise, mark with tape on your windshield the position of each blade so when you re-install you get them back where they belong. mis-aligning them can create poor wiping issues.

 

Having a Platinum with all the bells and whistles I was surprised NOT to have any under hood lighting so I added some. Just cheap (but bright) adhesive LED lights from Menards, and a weatherproof illuminated on/off switch I found on Amazon (wired to stay lit when the lights are off, and goes off when lights are turned on). All in all it was a cheap project, coming in around $20-25ish. Now that I got light, maybe an engine bay scrub is in order.

 

Finally removed the CAi that my truck came with and installed a TRD CAI. I didn't have the stock one to go back to or the bottom portion for the TRD one (so lame for the price of it, Toyota doesn't give you a new bottom air box portion).

I was finally able to find stock air intake used for cheap- Toyota wanted about $350 just for the bottom!!

I prefer OEM stuff hence why I did it. Sold the old CAI already so made some of my $ back!

Cheers!

 

Competed the second drain and fill on the trans, which went just like the first one except the fluid drained was somewhat pinkish and not just brown!

Leveling procedure was just as stressful waiting for the "D" to illuminate and then jumping into action.

Also figured I would check the rear differential fluid since I was forced to service the front diff directly after installing my new, adjustable coils.. By "check" I of course mean drain out whatever (crystal clear) swill the last guy put in there and replaced with (somewhat) proper Mobil 1 synthetic 75w90.

I still plan to complete 2 or 3 more drain and fills with Toyotas WS ATF, probably coinciding (loosely) with my oil and filter changes.

Another good day of preventative maintenance, moving Betty one more step towards all fluids and conditions being known and refreshed. Just in time for the weather to get cold as well!

 

Loncky Genuine Leather Auto Custom Steering Wheel Covers for Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2015 / Toyota Tundra 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013/ Toyota

$64 Loncky Genuine Leather Auto Custom Steering Wheel Covers for Toyota Land Cruiser 2008-2015 / Toyota Tundra 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013/ Toyota Sequoia 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 Accessories

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It just wraps around the existing wheel. No removal or airbag touching required. Comes with double stick tape and plenty of thread. Be prepared to take 3-4 hours. Take your time and pull tight but not too much as you don’t want to risk tearing the leather or popping a stitch. The corners in the smaller parts are hard and admittedly not 100% “together” but close enough and you can’t really tell. I’m a perfectionist and I’d say it’s 98% perfect. At the suggestion of a reviewer I did not put double stick tape under the front of the smooth leather, just the rear, as they said it could show through. Didn’t make install any more difficult. The main thing is take your time and give yourself more string than they say. I did 5x the run, they say 3. I had leftover but it makes it easier to finish and make sure you’re not going to run out and there is plenty of thread.

 

Hewitt tech kit is in! This stuff is out. No more limp mode!!

 

Damn,That's lota shit! How long did it take?
I'm sure I will have to do the same soon, my spider sense has been tingling. I'm up to 190,xxx and I hear it on cold starts, sounds like a turbo dumping boost.

 

Took about three hours, but I pulled the intake manifold to get to everything. That made it a lot easier. I don't know how he did the air switching valves in the video without doing it. Also, remove the front tires to install the block-off plates. The steering column is in the way on the driver side and you'll need all the room you can get.

Yeah I had the turbo spool sound along with half a dozen codes thrown, but all gone now!

Also, huge shout out to @hewitttech. I ordered this kit Friday afternoon and got it in Texas Monday afternoon. Amazon doesn't even get stuff here that fast. Full-color instructions included, and SWAG which my kids already knabbed.

It was a fun little project.

 

Thanks for the jiggly fog lite lite trick. Il be doing that for sure

 

Well luckily I'm not getting any cel or trouble codes yet, just the boost dump sound on cold starts.
Unfortunately it looks like I'll have to remove my sc which is kinda a pia, but I can service it at the same time. Hopefully it stays functioning until next summer cause I hate working on shit in the winter! Thanks for the info

 

What color you go with?

Seems like a nice match.

 

Where did you go into techstream to change to one click?