Rough start, lacks power

I highly doubt the oil viscosity has anything to do with it. I live in a very cold climate (-40C in the winter) and we don’t have this issue. Oil is like molasses in the winter.

I think your on the right track. Keep us posted.

 

So the rocker took out the sensor lobes on the exhaust cam shaft, hence the p0019.

They fitted the adjuster and rocker and turning the engine 3 tines the valve seems OK, but could still be bent. We still can't pinpoint route cause of rocker to fall out. Either the hydraulic adjuster causing the rocker to fall out due to no or not enough oil pressure.

Even if we mangle the Exhaust cam replacement without head off, we can't confirm the valve integrity, with head off.

Anyhow seems an engine out now.

 

dang . I thought something was up with a cam or crank sensor due to the 0019 code ( post 44).

the typical failure mode is the lash adjuster is not holding pressure and the cam spits the rocker out.

also the rocker can have a bearing seize and cause same thing.

I don’t think you have to remove engine to replace cam . But if the shop feels more comfortable that way then the upside is that you can replace cam and also check the valves easier.

edit: looking at pics of damaged sensor wheel, depending on your risk tolerance, you might be able to grind those down. That is likely aluminum material transfer from the rocker.

edit again: just noticed the huge heat discoloration on the cam.
Have you taken the cam bearing cap off to inspect? That journal may be damaged.

 

Obviously replace the cam. Check the valve with the spring off to make sure it’s not sticking. There should be a slight amount of play side to side. A compression test would tell you if the valve is bent.

 

Siddharth,

Any news, buddy?

 

Hi so the garage did a bit of hack and welded some material on where reluctor had been gouged out by the lifter. So now I still get p0019 until the oil heats up, say after 10 minutes driving, so just clear the code on the scan gauge, and then no more codes, no rough starts etc etc as before. Although the rough start only occurred once, and that is probably when the lifter came off, and gouged the reluctor. Replaced the lifter and the adjuster.

I have bought and kept the replacement cam shaft, and the garage that did the repair insists that the timing cover needs to come off to replace the camshaft, luckily no damage to valves, compression test all good, and even a leak down proved the same.

I am talking to other garages that build race engines who have more experienced techs on replacing the cam shaft without timing cover, or I carry on until I need to do a timing cover removal job and replace the cam at the same time.

About to change oil, and going to use liqui moly 0W-20, I am convinced the quality of oil was the culprit, and I am the culprit who selected that brand on cost. It is a UAE only brand, so no need to share the name here

 

Thanks. Glad the situation is heavily mitigated for you.

There are trick of the trade for getting cams out without removing the timing cover. It is basically different ways of keeping the cam timing in place on the phaser and gear.

 

Vanhack, I think i have a similar problem and I’m also located in Dubai. Can you drop me a message. I want to know which garage you went and did and take your advice

 

Hi, sorry to hear this. I took my car too Dynatrade Al Quoz. Mr. Madhu is the main tech for 4x4s there, try to meet him if you can.

 

Vanhack,
Thank you for your promoted answer, I’m wasting my time with auto pro and they cannt diagnose my multiple misfire for 1 week. So i want a trusty garage to open both valve covers and check. May i ask 2 questions:
1- how is your engine running now? Smooth running after the fix
2- did the garage manage to install the rockers and lifters without taking the cam shaft off ?

 

Yes I have no put on another 20k kms, and had just 3 misfire on start. I have done an oil analysis since 3 misfires in 2 weeks, nothing abnormal in the oil analysis. Switched too liqui moly 0w-20 once the repair done, pricey but I am of the opinion Adnoc Gold 5w-30 was the culprit initially. Yes they can replace the valve adjuster with loosening the cam caps, or keeping on the chain. Hopefully the adjuster has not damaged anything. Have a look for debri in the oil filter.

 

I’m using Enoc 5W20 since i bought the car. Its used 2008 5.7 with 186,000 miles. I was getting misfire during morning and then runs fine. But now after auto prod did valve cover gaskets replacement, the car is rough. They tested everything. My compression also looks good. So now my only option is to open the valve covers again and check rockers/springs and lifters.

 

You may have an electrical issue, that is one of the coils is not firing.

 

I hope so, but they tested the coils, spark plugs, and wires, and all fine. now I'm hearing some ticking noise not constant but from time to time.

 

180,000kms....maybe timing chain tensioner.

 

Yes, this is a possibility,

 

So a quick update for my case:
I opened both valve covers, checked the cam shaft for any damage. rotated the crank pulley and visually inspected all the valve trains. looks very smooth in rotation even the chain it's tight enough no sign for any slack. I'm wondering how you discovered a broken rocker vanhack. my condition now they will replace some vvti gaskets that i can confirm they are very brittle and damaged. hopefully this will help

 

Hi Sorry for not getting back to you, they opened the valve cover, and found the rocker was not in the right place, the intake rocker for cylinder 1 or 2, cant remember, but mentioned above, was sitting by the exhaust cam. Easy to spot.

Which garage is this?

I am NOW getting random misfires on startup, Cylinder 2 and Cylinder 5 are common, but occurs when the car sits for more than 18 hours doing nothing. I have a scangauge, where I clear the codes, and restart and works again. i am wondering if the reluctor is not sending the right signal on startup due to lower oil. I even did a oil analysis recently, and nothing abnormal in the oil, i.e. extra metals to indicate engine wear anywhere. My main Ecu plug is flimsy, and I want to know if this is normal....

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