Crackhead resurrection

Fast approaching 1,000 posts

 

It's allowed. Since you're not asleep yet, by the third start when idle came down, is there any operational issue remaining at that point?

I did a big skip thru the video so sorry if I missed it, but ....

How high was the oil pressure, for how long, and is it still happening?
Can you snap a pic of the bolt that was red hot?
The smoking, that was from valve cover leakage, is it still happening by the end?

I suspect you're just gonna need to flush oil and water sides a couple times to clear stuff out. But otherwise, you keep saying you bit off more'n you can chew. I disagree. The shit started up, and you have no idea how bad crackie f'ed it up before you (but you've seen a good glimpse). I think you did plenty alright so far.

 

Understood. I'm going to try and watch the video to better understand but if you've got oil coming out of the valve covers now I'm going to say that the motor no longer had enough positive crankcase ventilation and is now forcing the oil and vapors out the path of least resistance or the relief valve in the oil pump is stuck from sludge/sitting. I'm only speculating though. I suggest removing the oil filler cap and checking for a milky coating. That is a tell-tale sign of no/not enough pcv.

 

Oil pressure was just past the 3/4 mark on the gauge on the dash. Unsure of actual Psi. The high idle was around 2k rpm, and oil pressure followed suit. Pressure came back down, but was unsure if it was because I lost all my "excess" oil, or if thats normal. Was right around the 1/4 mark at low idle (around 1k rpm).

Bolt that was smoking was not red-hot, but thought it was odd that a single exhaust bolt from the "collector??" pipe was smoking independently of everything else. The one closest to the fender. If you look at your drivers side manifold where the manifold/header meets the pipe. Of those two bolts, it was the one on the right.

The smoking was oil seeping from the VC onto the manifold/headers.

I'll flush as much stuff as I can until Toyota calls me. Thank you for this. Was feeling overwhelmed this morning. Will go to Wallace wurl in the AM, and get more oil/distilled water for flushing activities. Crackie did a number on it, and I'm determined to see this through.

 

I did pull the oil fill cap off at some point in the video, and I could see oil in the valve cover being splashed about by the cam. It looked like regular oil. Interesting to watch it work. Hoping that the issues isn't the oil pump like you say. Hoping that new VC gaskets, and a good few engine oil flushes will yield positive results.

Are there bolt gaskets too? I know the V6 has bolt gaskets. Any need for new bolts?

 

1986-2004 Toyota Engine Valve Cover Grommet 90210-07001 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
1998-2009 Toyota Engine Valve Cover Gasket 11214-50011 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
1998-2009 Toyota Engine Valve Cover Gasket 11213-50031 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
1998-2002 Toyota PCV Valve 12204-50020 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
1985-2004 Toyota PCV Valve Grommet 90480-18001 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
Housing Connector F 90980-11037 | McGeorge Toyota Parts
1992-2020 Toyota Spark Plug Tube Seal 11193-70010 | McGeorge Toyota Parts

Anything else that I need? Bolts?
I've got L/R VC, VC bolt Grommets, PCV valve + grommet, Tube seals, and the connector for the TB.

 

The engine oil flush seems worrisome to me. You may push some sludge out of places it doesn't need to be but what if that pushes it to the pan and it doesn't come out with the draining. What if it get sucked up in the pickup tube and clogs it?
I've never used a flush product personally but this just seems like something that could possibly happen. Just my .02

 

Agreed. I wouldn't perform anything like this yet, if at all. It may not be necessary. The best thing he can do at this point is get the true oil pressure reading. If it's within spec nothing needs done except maybe some gaskets and correct torque values on hardware.

 

Post 1,000. Verification. Harbus freightimus oil pressure gauge? $40 to have, and keep in the tool box.

 

Damn...I missed post #666!

Maybe it's time for a Seafoam engine treatment?

 

You can get 1,666! Seafoam might be a good place to start. I am going to Wallace wurl after work

 

not speculating is it a concern but curious how do you have the heater core hoses hooked up since I don’t see them in proper place ?

 

Hope this helps you help me Bubba!


All kosher, or am I doing it wrong?

 

Swapped aisin T-stat for butchered moto-rad because I forgot to do that on the first go round. Torqued valve covers to 54 in.lb, and topped off oil.

Drained from driver side block, and bottom of the rad.


Video coming soon.

 

https://youtu.be/v66HVCOlZTM

16 minutes compressed down to 2 minutes of footage. Very little seepage from the valve covers. Acceptable amount of drip from the two corner bolts I couldn't get to.

Happy with results so far. Will attempt a drain from driver, and passenger side tomorrow in the AM.

 

Can't remember from video, have you run it without funnel in place which would put it under normal pressure ?

Not questioning whether it is or isn't....It appears heater core is bypassed, which not bad thing at this point, simply trying to understand how you have it hooked up what appears temporary ?



The last 5 min of video, engine sounded pretty decent even tho it's not same as if one was standing in front of it. You also mentioned check engine light not on, that means you know it works with key on eng off, KOEO ?

As for gauges, in case it helps, below pic top to bottom
1) key off eng off
2) seconds after start
3) engine warm at idle

 

Heater core is bypassed using the inlet/out from the engine to allow flow with no mess. Temporary measure, yes.

CEL does in fact work. KOEO confirmed. No CELS yet. Have not scanned for anything pending yet.

With T-stat removed for speed, and lack of bleeding engine never fully warmed up even after 16 min of idle. Oil pressure rose to picture 2 of your 3 above, and stayed about there as the computer didn't get the temp set point to idle down.

Coolant gauge was only 1/4 of the way up when I shut it off.

 

Perhaps santa will bring you a scan gauge someday that shows temps !
Best time/money I spent was getting Techstream to work and also Innova scan gauge for kicks and giggles !

 

One day off in the distant future. I have a VERY long uphill battle until then. Walked uphill both ways in the driving snow to get to school though so I should be fine as long as I can keep my brain from spazzing out!

 

you’ll be fine, you have a good co-pilot that’ll keep you grounded

 

The best. More than I thought I deserved.

 

I'm wondering if you have some sludge in the oil blocking passageways. Maybe crackie thought "got that high mileage engine, better add some stop leak" which deposits or blockages, and once the engine temp got up, things loosened up and pushed through, idle dropped, leaking stopped?

May want to sacrifice the most recent oil change and do a SeaFoam treatment on the truck's oil system. SeaFoam calls for 6.5oz to be added (IIRC, 1oz per quart installed) which means remove 6.5oz, then drive for 100 miles before changing. There may be other products on the market to remove sludge, but SeaFoam is the gentler, kinder, all-petroleum (highly refined petrol) product that works, so it's what I've always trusted. My concern would be, at that mileage, using a more aggressive product that would flush the stop leak may also re-introduce a leak by clearing out the "good" oil blockage stopping leaks

 

When i cleaned the injectors on the jeep i used one of those laser thermometers to make sure all the header pipes were heating up evenly.

 

PS - I hate touching hot engines, but I'm going to suggest you to bring the truck up to temp when changing the oil, just to get everything liquefied and motile when you open it up. Wear long sleeve long johns up top

 

I handle 400° molded parts/molds most.of the day so high heat doesn't bother me that much. I have two cans of seafoam that I purchased today among other things!

I also have that super duper liqui-moli stufffs

 

Just saw this. Sorry I missed it, but no. I have no. I like to be able to see the bubbles, and the dirt rise up. Doing it like this allows me to have pictures of the funnel after each stopping of the engine to see how the progression of clean.

Maybe. That's the idea anyways.

 

Foresee all this hard work being able to re-producing the below again someday minus check engine light !

 

With proper coolant flow toboot!