Crackhead resurrection

Rear 5100s are in stock right now. If you're doing that on the rear itd be good to order those ASAP and let Toyota put them on for free with the frame swap.

 

Totally forgot about the disconnect kits. I'm sure I could copy someone elses handy-work! Thanks Steve!

Back in the Fuck it days!

 

In stock WHERE!? The rain forest?

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bsn-24-100144/make/toyota/model/tundra/year/2001

 

Thanks! I'll go see what I can pull up on my phone. Don't like the thought of using payment methods on a company computer. Strange they don't sell as a two-piece kit.

 

Anybody got any discount codes?

 

I know how much everyone loves spending your money but might be a good idea to roll with the 5100s that are on it (and get rear ones too) and actually use the truck for what you want to use it for and see how it does. I feel like those 5100s can't be super super old but I guess there's no real way to tell. Might find out that what's on there is good enough for what you need and can look at replacing later down the road.

 

That might be a good call. I'll just have to see. I still have to get the body hole patched too. I haven't forgotten about that.

 

Thinking more on the frame swap at Toyota.

Let's assume that my new SPC arms come in before they call me. Throw that in the truck, and let them install while the cab is off?

I could pre-grease, and assemble the arms before sticking them back in the box. All Toyota would need to do is install the adapter in the spindle/knuckle, and then the ball joint.

Thoughts on having them do Lower ball joints too? I mean if a rusty bolt snaps it'll be on them to fix it. Might be worth having them do it.

Thoughts?

 

When they pull the lower arms they should leave the ball joints bolted to the spindle and remove the large nut at the end of the joint. If you give them ball joints to do they could just remove the 4 bolts on the spindle and remove that way. I'd think those would be free labor.
I'd also think that the UCA's would be free labor as well since they are being swapped from frame to frame anyway as long as they don't have to do any extra steps for aftermarket.
Edit: Yeah if they have to press in the ball joint to the UCA that'll cost I'm sure.

 

I can barely keep up with this thread. You guys are productive. Going back to the coolant flush, I wonder if you should also do an oil flush.

Some might remember both Hand Model and myself doing the Liquid Moly engine flush. When I did it to my truck I got some chunks of goo out so I can only imagine what would come out of yours. I won't pretend to understand the formula but I'm guessing it's like Seafoam in the crankcase but on crack which would be appropriate. It looks like the also have an Engine Flush Plus. You could look into both.

Good reviews and pictures in this link.

$16 Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush | 500 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2037

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CR3RXTO

https://products.liqui-moly.com/pro-line-engine-flush-1.html

 

Thanks for this. Excluding seafoam, I didn't know such a thing existed. Wouldn't hurt, but I'm about done with big jobs until after the frame swap. Like I said earlier, I don't want to be caught with my pants down.

 

I can't figure out the multi quote thing so these are all jumbled thoughts.

For shocks, if you're getting new coils then you can use the 4600, but if you may want to adjust then go with 5100 just in case. Here's a chart of OME coils and Dobinsons. The heavier coil (660) is for heavy bumpers and double cabs, you should be just fine with the 590#

ATS HD leafs are awesome and much cheaper than other options. I did the rear sway bar first and then the new leafs and those made a much bigger difference than the Hellwig sway bar.

I'd also slow down a bit on some of the stuff, meaning get new shocks and leafs then a new frame and then see what it's like before you go with sway bars. They are easy to add or upgrade later, but maybe you don't need them.

Leafs, shocks and UCAs are going to have to be removed when toyota does the frame so I would think they wouldn't add much in labor to do that.

Before that though, get it buttoned up and running.

 

I'm with @rock climber. From a practical standpoint I would get it up and running before doing much else. You've already run into some issues and don't know what else may come up in the process that will require $$$.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Don't take on too much at once. I know you work a ton of hours @Tundra2

 

Yup. As someone who's made that mistake more than once thinking I could consolidate and/or streamline efforts .... I said the same thing several pages ago when someone recommended popping off the valve covers to take a peek.

 

Oh and hey @Tundra2 just to expand on that - I'll offer up a possible gauge and some food for thought.

Sometimes it's a balancing act figuring out how deep to dig. Other times it's a death-defying high wire act. It's easier to eat a whole chicken as an 8-piece meal than to gobble the whole bird. 'benefit now vs. benefit later' isn't always the best gauge. Sometimes you need to step back and think about 'actual gain vs. loss' and if your gain doesn't exceed the realistic loss, OR it's going to add extra doubt later by adding another thing to diagnose if something's not working, then skip it.

It's the main reason I mentioned not bothering with the valve covers earlier. That could just be opening another can of worms for later. Get it running, get it frame swapped, think about gaskets and cleaning there later. Actually, you may want to get it running, then clean things and monitor for oil leaks. Then do a gunk-out of the oil system, wait a few thousand miles to monitor for oil leaks, then do valve cover gaskets and seals. If you do all three at the same time, and you have an oil leak ... guess how much extra work you get to do figuring out which is the culprit?

But beyond that, one other thing to think about now you're potentially opening a can of worms with suspension. It's not really clear what the dealership is going to replace on the vehicle. If you bring them a bunch of parts, you may be throwing out money and losing touch with what's in your truck. For example, What if you just bring the truck in, let them replace what they're going to replace with the frame, then you work at getting the exact suspension you want over time, and when it comes time to swap, you have extra OEM parts you can potentially sell for $$ or use towards another vehicle or project?

Now, if they were to call you mid-way through and say, "hey - you're gonna need to pay extra $$ to replace XYZ" (or you can get them to tell you common extra charges up front so you can buy aftermarket parts to go there), then ... maybe it makes sense to buy it now.

I like to use K.I.S.S. method when possible. It's not always possible in cases like this. That said, sometimes K.I.S.S. can be compartmentalized: You started this entire task because the timing belt was fecked. In the process, you needed to touch the cooling system, so that's a simple bite to tackle: Purge it, flush it, replace radiator, water pump, hoses. Oil cooler is tangentially associated. You're there, so K.I.S.S, eh. Button it up (bypass the oil cooler for now if needed), and fire it up. Drive it around, now it's safe to do so. Don't go digging other holes in the yard when you haven't finished filling the one you're in. Dig the lubrication system hole later. Then the suspension system. Then the body system.

Maybe I could use to take me own advice. Either way, stepping off the soapbox. Sorry for the novel.

 

Swap a tall converter and some 4.88’s.

 

A750 so you can have 2 first gears.

cant be too hard of a swap. Lol

 

You guys are totally right in my need to slow down. I'm getting way ahead of myself, and thanks for reminding me to pump the brakes!

So slowing down, and trying to figure stuff out for the frame swap. New engine mounts are a necessity if the old radiator has anything to say about it. These are probably going to be a special order, and will be take a little bit of time to arrive. Something I feel like I don't have...




I'm not sure if I need just the rubber part, or all of this. Also, item number one appears to be Part # 12311-50120. Unsure why it's not available in McGeorge list, but is if you search for the part number.


Which claims it doesn't fit my truck. The "However" part does. Now I'm thoroughly confused by all these damned parts! What do I need? Should I figure out what's broke, and order that, or is there way to figure it out? Jack up the truck, and see what's disconnected where?

 

Sent an email to McGeorge to confirm. Awaiting reply. Here's the list so far

• 4WD trans mount: 12371-0F010 $103.29
• Left mount bracket 12315-50090
  $110.25
  
• Stabilizer kit (L/R) 12381-0F010
  $22.84
  
• Engine mount (Front L/R) 12361-0F010
  $67.29
  
• Bed bolts (X8) 64189-0C011
  $79.84
• TOTAL for this order $383.51

Will add body mounts to this last when I get home.

 

It appears that the first part # is a right-hand mount and is not the correct one for your application. The "However" part # is the drivers side and does fit your application. Whether you need the brackets or not is something you would have to verify by inspecting them. If the rubber isolators are sold separately and the brackets are good no sense in spending unnecessary $$$. I would crawl under and verify if a brackets or brackets are broke or not. You can use a jack and look for uneven or excessive movement. May be broken bolts, who knows? With that many miles on it I wouldn't be surprised if the rubber isolators at minimum needed replaced. Let us know what you discover.

 

Thanks! I'll try to figure out what I need for sure when I get time. I'm not against having it all replaced, just to eliminate any possibility of them being fubar, but again how would I know I have everything...

 

I’ve only been telling you this for weeks

 

Might also want to take a look into exhaust manifolds/headers soon if you're going to have Toyota do them to keep you from what apparently is the hell of dealing with those. Not sure where you stand on them doing that as who knows if they'll break studs or not. That'll be the big determining factor of labor costs. Just wanted to remind you to possibly consider it.

 

Motor mounts seen below.

Drivers side.


Pass side.


Jacked the engine up using the oil pan. Whole truck started to lift upwards so I'm not sure how the radiator got damaged unless it was loose itself at some point.

Did some more crawling around. Generic fuel filter


Expanding foam on the drivers side wheel well arch on the bed.


4WD thing? At the back of the transmission featuring slung grease from the driveshaft.


Burnt wires on that harness... Not sure how to fix that, but future project.


A shot of the drivers side looking forward.



So, my main goal was to check the motor mounts. I think they're good? Probably will just buy the isolators. Transmission mount looks good too.

I'll work on changing the rubber transmission lines next.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1251111&cc=1375365&pt=6200
Link to Wix filter I used that comes with new bracket.

 

Yeah, that Transfer Actuator motor got hot at some point in time. Definitely a candidate for project later list !

 

Did a few of the transmission lines that I could get to.

Same stuff I used on the V6. Confiscated from a failed work project. Oil, UV, and water resistant up to 350°F



Still not sure how to get from there to there... could make a 90° elbow at work. Unsure.