Trailer maintenance

This thread is for buying/maintaining all trailers:

-Travel Trailers/campers
-Flatbed
-Enclosed
-Wood Deck/Metal deck
-Boat

We all buy trailers for work, play, or both. Regardless of size, build quality they will need continued maintenance. Depending on geographical location, some trailers will need more attention than others (salt, wet, snow, high heat, water for boat trailers).

What do we need to do? Great question and hopefully this thread can teach us all new ideas and best practices.

Brand new trailers:

- When ordering/looking for a trailer, really sit down and think about the options you want and need. Adding them later can be difficult. Things to consider would be:

1) Size. This right here has been my own personal nemesis. The tow vehicle often can dictate this decision. In the past 15 years, I have owned 4 flatbed trailers alone (7K, 10K, 14K, 14K). All these were due to size requirements for the most part...except the 7K. That one just fell apart.

2) Capacity. This is probably one of the most important decisions you will make. Is this for personal use only, business, or both? Local laws should be researched and understood. Local DOT and Highway Patrol can point you in the right direction. There is nothing worse than getting pulled into a DOT checkpoint and getting the book thrown at you. This can add up to thousands in fines.
Remember, not all states require both braking axles, so be cognizant when buying a trailer and ensure you are buying what’s needed.

3) Use. What is the best trailer for your needs? (Majority of the time)

4) Configuration. Tie down points, width, drive over fenders, removable fenders, adjustable coupler (size), wood or steel deck, ramp(s), lights (go LED, you’re welcome).

5) Construction. What’s the difference in 4” C channel vs 5/6” C channel? Enclosed trailer siding thickness .024/.030/.040? I’m sure we have all seen the enclosed trailers that siding looks like a piece of aluminum foil that’s been crumpled up and attempted to make smooth again. Thickness matters.

- Never assume everything is 100% completed.

- Inspect very closely (welds, paint, wood decking, wiring, lights work, etc).

- Read owners manual. Find out the options your specific trailer has and maintenance suggestions.

- Take a grease gun when picking up the trailer for the first time (if the spindles have zirks). Put a couple good pumps in each. Most quality trailers have bearing buddy spindles and self adjusting brakes.

-Warranties. Understand what you have, and get the best one you can afford.

When you get home with the trailer:

- Treat the deck. Trailer deck maintenance often gets forgotten. This is my new trailer, 2017 model that was never used or treated. Deck it not in good shape.



Used trailers:

What to look for is important. Here are some suggestions that might help later on.

1) Overall condition. If the trailer looks like it wasn’t taken care of cosmetically, it most likely wasn’t mechanically.

2) Decking. This can be a real pain to replace, and expensive. Regardless if you plan to do this yourself, it’s still expensive.

Trust me, this sucks.



3) Frame rust and weld condition. Research the manufacturer build quality. Not all trailer manufacturers are created equal, and in most cases you get what you pay for.

4) Axles. This is a big one, especially with 3200 lb axles. Lots of times, these are purchased with the best of intentions, but often are overloaded. This is even a bigger issue when the trailer is a single axle. Look how bent the spindles/axle is? I followed this Tundra towing at 75 mph.



This trailer most likely eats tires.

Axles in good condition should have an arch in them like this:

When was the last brake shoe replacement? Bearings repacked? Receipts? If not, I would pull a hub to inspect. The seller might not want to do this, but if they want a sale and have done due diligence with maintenance there’s nothing to worry about. Look to see what new replacement bearing hub/brake assemblies cost x 4. Hubs, bearings, brake assemblies on my trailer are 205-250.00 each.

Inspect the bearing cap, and rubber grommet. Tire shops beat these up a lot, but the grommets are very important. If you see cracks in the rubber, you can assume water got inside the hub.



Good sealed up bearings with 15k miles on grease.



Seal was cracked, water was obviously inside hub and bearings/races replaced. This trailer is 3 years old with only 600 miles on it. Luckily I brought a grease gun and pumped some good bearing grease inside to make the trip home (600 miles away).



5) Coupler. Is it in good working condition? Grease inside or ran dry?

6) Jack. Accidents happen and jacks are left down. Is the jack in good operating condition? Bolted on or welded? Replacement costs? Some jacks are 300.00 and then you need to cut the damaged one off, and weld a new one on. Then you have paint/Powder coating to deal with.

7) D-Rings, stake pockets, tie down mounts in good condition?

8) Safety chains. Have they been drug on the ground? Safety clips still work?

9) Tires. There will be a lot of opinions about trailer tires. Some people I know that tow huge RV's never let their tires get 3 years old. Good rule of thumb is 3-6 years old. Personally, my flatbeds never last over 5. On the RV, every 3 years due to what is located right above the tires (refrigerator, hot water heater) and can cost thousands in repairs.
Speed ratings. Buy the tires that have the best speed rating. My RV has ST tires that are rated to 75 mph and the flatbed has tires rated to 81 mph.

 

Opened for comments/suggestions. This is just a start, so share your experiences.

Personally, I would like to learn more about boat trailers and enclosed trailers. I may be owning some of those in the future.

 

Space them out for shrink and swell. This also helps drain (water/snow, etc).