Do those who are running close to a 1 inch front lift still have rake?

So recently I saw a TRD Pro DC and fell in love with the stance. I believe the Pro is about two inches taller (please correct me if I am wrong). So initially I was debating whether to replace the stock suspension with the TRD Fox. I had a conversation with @Terndrerrr and he provided m with excellent info…thanks again bud! So I gotten to thinking and all I want is the stance. Not a complaint in the world with the stock TRD Offroad suspension especially with the rear TRD sway bar. So long story short I called Coach Builder (top notch, VERY knowledgeable, and took the time to explain many things) and I like the 1/2 top plate top spacer that provides 1 inch lift which is perfect. And I can use factory studs! I couldn’t with my 2nd gen Tacoma or 5th gen 4Runner.

So finally to the question at hand…when I raised the truck with a jack to check CV angles and look in general it looked almost level. I don’t want to level…. I measured from the center of the wheel cap to the bottom of the fender. Maybe I was on unlevel ground? Do those who are running close to a 1 inch front lift still have rake? Any pictures would be appreciated as well as any input.

 

factory rake is about 1.5-2, lifting the front one inch will still give the truck some rake. 2 inch lift in front will level the truck.

You are probably not going to find pics of a one inch lift, if someone is going to lift, they usually go 2+ to make it worthwhile. One thing you can look for is someone on 5100s set at the lowest perch, which is 1.3 lift. There are threads in the suspension forum here with pics of folks at 1.3, you will just need to search and look there.

 

I used 5100’s on the lowest lift position, .87” for my truck. Rear is factory. Added LT275/70r18’s. Still has some rake for when I tow my boat, about 1.5”. I wanted a little more ground clearance, yet still to be able to tow near level and not totally kill my mileage. I added a hard tonneau and my mileage is almost back to my stock freeway mileage. For me, it works. I can get a picture later for you.

 

Thanks guys much appreciated!

It funny that you mentioned the 1.3 setting and I was able to find more pictures under that this morning. Definitely don’t want it to be leveled because I tow and put an ATV in the bed. And the gentleman at Coach Builder explained you should not go less than a one inch rear rake for the TSS system.

 

That looks great! Thank you

 

It works well for my purposes. Good luck with whatever you decide to do. Plenty of right answers to your query. My factory rake was almost 2.5”, now it’s just under 1.5”, so far that’s perfect for me. If I decided to get closer to factory rake, I could add CB 1” shackles for approx. a + .625 lift in the rear. When I tow a heavier boat next month, I’ll decide. It never ends…

 

It was throwing me for a loop. I installed ToyTec 1/4 (1/2 lift) spacers on both my 2012 Tacoma and a 2017 4Runner. Both looked great but definitely subtle with still a decent amount of rake. When I mocked it up on the Tundra it almost looks nose high which I CANNOT stand. But I believe you and many others that there is about a 2.5 difference in rack…odd. With the mock up at 2 inches to match the PRO it looked extremely nose high.

EDIT: I did say I was done with any suspension changes on this truck and sure as hell look where I am now…

 

I suspect every truck is different. 1/2” here, 1/2” over there, adds up, inches matter I guess and are often within normal specs. I measured my rake, so know what it was. I also suspect most eyes can’t see 1/2” difference in rake. I sure can’t. Mine looked level-ish, after the front lift, until I measured it.

 

I ordered both the 1/4 shims and the 1/2 shims but after measuring and taking pictures/looking from all angles I think the 1/2 shim is the way to go. I also put in another call to Coach Builder who were once again helpful and patience with my questions/concerns.
1 inch lift shown above…


I also ordered the Toyota OEM full Aluminum running boards that ALSO look like a quasi slider. They will sit closer to the frame. I always felt these steps just didn’t look right and sit too low due to their fat width. I do feel it will sit a hair nose high with a trailer hooked up or especially with an ATV in the bed. But overall I think it’s going to look great and be like a whole new truck.

Thanks again @Pmac & @frichco228

 

The tundra roof will give the illusion that the rear is lower than it is. 1 inch rake looks level. A leveled truck looks lower in the back

 

Installed the shims yesterday and I am very happy. It does feel a little stiffer up front and it definitely didn’t give an inch of lift (I think it’s perfect at .8” lift). No problems with vibrations or TSS codes at this point.

This is with 400 pounds in the bed close to the tailgate. Which when towing many make it a little nose high…personally I wouldn’t want to go any higher but I don’t want to touch the rear.

Here’s the picture with an empty bed.



Stock measurements

Top of wheel cap (Over TRD)


Front Driver: 20

Front Passenger: 20 3/16

Rear Driver: 22

Rear Passenger: 21 14/16


Coach Builder .5 shim measurements


Front Driver: 20 12/16

Front Passenger: 21

Rear Driver: 22

Rear Passenger: 21 15/16

 

So Pmac, I have been looking at this option for myself, and I am very curious as to how much a difference there is in the ride quality with the 5100s at the .87 inch setting. I don't expect that it would be much different but you never know. How does it compare to the stock Bilsteins that came with the TRD off road package. Thanks.

 

?

 

I think an inch of rake is perfect!

 

Couldn’t agree more…a little tougher looking without killing its capabilities.

 

It rides just a bit firmer. Less dip or body roll when cornering. Less nose dive if you stand on the brakes. Just feels better to me. Part of that is my change to LT275/70 10 plys. I really like it. But I did the tires first, then the 5100’s. Tires helped with cornering and at 35-38 lbs. of air the ride was not much different. The tires did not rub with stock suspension, but did after the small lift. Was the skid plate at full turn. Already had a RCI plate on order, installed it and no more rub. I took the fronts to 40lbs and the rear to 50lbs recently towing the boat, and just left it. Slightly more choppy at low speed, but not bad to me.

I’ve always at least replaced my factory truck shocks with HD’s, which the 5100 are a version there of + a little lift, imo. I still have enough rake I can tow a 5k boat and am only 1/2” nose hi. My headlight adjustment takes care of that just fine. I’m very pleased for the result vs $ outlay and like the ride. It’s a truck ride, firm, not floaty. Hope that helps you.

 

I have been considering the Coachbuilder shims also and looking at your before and after measurements, my truck sets about 1/4" lower in front and about 1/4" higher (or a bit less depending on where I set the tape measure under the fender) in back than your stock measurements. Driver side.

I was wondering about a couple things if you don't mind? First was the install easy, and any need for longer bump stops? Have you had wheel alignment checked?

Your truck does look nice with the lift you added.

Some how I managed to put this in the middle of the quote I posted in #14.

 

No worries…

To clarify I didn’t install the lift, I had a mechanic do it for 200 bucks. You will definitely need an alignment and I followed the Coach Builder specs he has listed on the site. I didn’t purchase the extended bump stops but I MAY add some spacers. This is the third truck I ran with small strut spacers (.25 to .5 thickness MAX) and I never had a problem really but I don’t offroad and I avoid bigger tires at this point. Both are stressful on a truck and you will be better served with an aftermarket shock at that point.

My truck primarily use is protecting the family and hauling house stuff. I wanted mostly stock.

 

Thanks for the info. My big concern was the ride would be too harsh but it sounds like it is only a bit firmer, and therefore, not a big deal to me. I don't tow often so I will likely up my tire size but don't think I will go to an E rated tire just to preserve some mileage too. Since the 5100s are basically the same valving as the 4600s I think this option sounds good. Glad to hear you are happy with it. A few more months and I will be ready to make the upgrade. In the end, if the ride is not harsh and spine jarring I will be happy. Thanks again.

 

Absolutely, any time!

Also do yourself a big favor and checkout the Eibach offerings. They sell shocks similar to the 4600’s and 5100’s. And Eibach’s valving is significantly better than any 5100 or 4600 I had or had ridden in (quite a few of my family members have 5100 equipped Toyota’s). Bilsteins are excellent but for 100 bucks more Eibach knocks it out of the park IMHO especially in the small bump compliance department (this is where I feel Bilstein is too rough). I had the 5100’s equivalents on my 2017 4Runner and it really transformed the ride and performance. However the OEM 4Runners shocks are valved way too soft. I personally felt a spacer was perfect with the Tundra because the ride is the best of any Toyota truck I have owned.

**sorry early morning thought you were thanking me but the I realized it was for PMAC**

 

If you go with 5100’s and hate it, they are easy to sell. There are other brands with options, as mentioned above, but I only have experience with the 5100’s.

 

I just got my 1 inch Coachbuilder shackles installed today. I honestly didn’t like every time I towed or added weight to the bed it looked nose high…

I am much happier with factory rake in the end.

On a side note the shackles really improved the ride quality and handling…

Now as to whether the prematurely wear out your leaf springs…

 

I highly doubt a 1 inch longer shackle will wear them out that much faster. A 3 inch longer i can buy that

 

I with you that, but I honestly don’t have much experience with shackle lifts.

 

The longer the shackle, you’re lowering the spring rate i believe, it has more mechanical advantage to flatten out

 

Here is the final product. I prefer the factory rack now that I have it back. The picture doesn’t do 1 inch justice. In person and especially parked next to a stock Tundra it is quite noticeable.