Best differential fluid to use

Im curious, how many miles did you get out of it since you bought it? Very happy to see that bearing housing, looks pretty stout.

 

I would have had an itch to install LSD as one of those "While I'm in there" lol[/QUOTE]

Thank you for your kind words, it helps ease the pain. I can say proudly,
I put 84,000 miles give or take a few hundred either way with contaminated gear oil. Toyota Tundras have a tough drivetrain. The proof is in the pudding. To all involved with these threads,
(1) raise the vent on your rear differential.
(2) check the front differential vent as well.

 

I thank everyone for their input again and again.
Anthony C

 

This is what I found after removing the tin baffle. I began to think, how’s the best way to clean this housing up?

I went to Home Depot and purchased two 12” extensions. I cut one right where the shaft is reduced to a 1/4”. I put that in my die grinder. Now I have the coupling end to add the full 12” extension, on the end of the full extension I added the cut extension and sliced it like an arrow knock. I wrapped the knocked end with emery cloth. The die grinder speed was perfect. It cleaned up the rust just fine. I rinsed it all with Brake cleaner. Getting ready to put the new set of gears in place.
.

 

I would use a drill, extension and wire brush. But whatever works best for you

 

Last thing you want is a left over wire stuck in the housing.

 

Thank you, I did just that but it wasn’t working very well. That’s when I decided to use the die grinder, the speed of the pneumatics cleans much faster and shreds the tip of the emery cloth as it cleans. Doing it this way assures fresh emery cloth all the time. It clean the rust out of axle tube in less than a minute.

 

I didn’t use a wire wheel, I used emery cloth.

 

Urgent:
Can anyone tell me if the tone ring for the ABS is incorporated in the rear axle bearings? I purchased new bearings to be pressed on the axles. When I looked at them, to me it looks like the tone ring is missing. The old bearings show a tone ring effect. When I wiped the old bearings, the tone ring effects disappeared? So I’m very confused, I need help with this one. thanking you in advance,
Anthony C

 

I have seen some similar conflicting information so you are on the right path

 

Abs will not function without some sort of tone ring, there has got to be something for the sensor tip to read. Just not sure what year used what design, I do know there was changes made to the design

 

At this point my guess is that a thin label like surface was applied to the bearing and it works by simply creating a very slight difference or material interface that the sensor picks up as it rotates. Me thinks cheaper to produce this vs machining an actual steel toothed ring. It wouldn't take much thickness at all to produce a material interface that the sensor would read, so it's possible it could wipe away with a minimal effort.

 

Trying to find more info. Did find someone on the forum here with a 2016, had taken it apart and said tone ring was just inside the bearing but no photos. Still trying.

 

If the bearing had worn to the point that it allowed lateral movement, then maybe the sensor tip chewed off the label like tone ring as rotation and lateral wear took place, basically very slowly grinding it off with each revolution, means there is nothing left when you disassemble. Just a guess, but maybe correct. Did you or can you get a look at the sensor tip?

 

Don’t have them tone ring

 

Has it, just included in the hub assembly

 

Thank you. I’m just very dissatisfied with the way the machine shop did their work. They handed me the axles with the retaining studs loose. I handed them back and said finish the job I paid for. They did deliver the axles to the house, but the retaining studs still needed to be seated completely. What a bunch of you know whats

Thanks again for your input. I called Toyota and they said the tone ring is behind that material. It is part of the axle bearing.

Anthony C

 

Hello all.
Well the machine shop refunded expenses, I ate the cost of the new bearings, I bought them on line. The backing plate/dust shields were bent to the point of making contact with the rotors. I purchased two new axle assemblies from AMAZON. Dorman offers them with their bearings on the axles. Absolutely no complaints (). I used the 85/140 Amsoil in the rear end, the transfer case, and the front axle. Yes it’s a little heavier but pulling the RV gives me a piece of mind. It may effect my gas mileage in the colder months, but that happens anyway. I checked my carrier bearing, I’m having that replaced. I also checked my front bearings, and I’m replacing them as well this weekend. I also removed the baffles from the rear ended housing to let the oil flow to the axle bearings. I know the axle bearings are sealed but every drop of oil they get is not going to hurt anything. The baffles just slowed the gear oil down from reaching the ends of the rear housing, they didn’t stop the oil completely. Come this weekend my Tundra will be ready for the road again. To go 83,000 miles with contaminated rusty oil, that’s one tough axle assembly.
I also moved the vent from the top of the rear housing to between the gas tank neck and the frame with 5/16 neoprene fuel line. I used a 1/8 NPT X 5/16 push-n-lock fitting and a new cotton vent.

 

Well the Tundra is all back together, it's doing well. I used 85W140 Amsoil in front, rear differententials and the transfer case. I tow a 6,500 bl. travel trailer.

 

not really true. this is from my manual

• Toyota Genuine Differential gear oil LT 75W-85 GL-5 or equivalent - Toyota part #
  $47 08885-02506 Differential Gear Oil LT - 1 Liter Bottle
  08885-02506

 

I just got back from a trip to Tennessee from Virginia Beach, VA pulling my 6,500 lb. Toy Hauler getting 10.1 MPG @ 65 MPH. (65 MPH @ 2,000 RPM’s in 5th gear) Anything over 65 MPH my fuel mileage starts to fall. The proof is in the pudding. Just thought I’d share that.

 

You are absolutely correct in what the manual says, that doesn’t mean as an individual we can’t use 75W140 or 85W140. We’re talking about differentials and transfer cases. It also depends on where we live as well. The manual also says to use 0W20 in the engine, or 5W20. Then replace the 5W20 with the 0W20 ASAP. The 0W20 in an energy conserving motor oil, it also lasts a little longer because of its shear points. The motor oil should be changed every 5,000 miles. The transfer case calls for 15K if you tow a trailer. That seems reasonable and justified. I’ll probably change mine at 10K just because the rear and transfer case are new components. The only thing I can see using the 85W140 is, it takes away economy because it needs the extra horse power to move the heavier oil through the transfer case pump, and rear end gears when temperatures are below 32°. In my personal opinion the 85 W140 is for heavier hauling and towing. If you don’t tow at all, or tow fire wood and trash every once in a while. You don’t need the 85W140 at all.
Thank you for sharing
Anthony C

 

I was just responding to a post saying the manual doesnt even say or equivalent, so I quoted manual

 

Thank you for letting me know that. It’s all good.

 

what made you use Ravenol? I’m about to do my diffs and transfer case, just trying to figure out what to use, my dealer has Toyota 75W-85, but will be about $30/ Liter, which seems steep.

whereas ravenol is $17/ Liter

 

Just google about Ravenol. High Quality oil products.

 

Just called my local dealer, they want $40/liter, crazy price difference

 

That’s crazy.
I’m using Ravenol in 3 different cars over the years. I would highly recommended. And of the day, it is just oil -keep it by specs and you’ll be just fine.