Crackhead resurrection

No wonder there's not many Toyota people from your area ... No dealers means no trucks. They're everywhere in TX

 

Hard to say currently. 3-4 month lead time on a frame last we did

 

Damn.

 

At this point they’re hand made when ordered for 1st gens

 

Mine was inspected near the end of March and frame was done in the middle of July at the same dealership.

 

Fuckin @Tundra2 will be getting the Bentley of Toyota then. Nice

 

Carter is loaded down at McGeorge


Unsure if I need just the body mounts, or all the hardware... given the rust it might not be a bad idea to replace it all, but that's a price tag already.

Curious on what @empty_lord would do, or @shifty` or @BubbaW !

 

Can the body mounts be inspected without removing anything? Never really have tried to take a close look at mine honestly. I know the trans mount is visible.

 

Unsure. I'll have to look this coming Friday. I'm off this Thurs-Sunday. Won't feel like doing shit as I'm getting wisdom teeth pulled early in the AM Thursday...

I found those solid motor mounts on TW that @empty_lord was talking about. Below is a link, and a quote.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4-7l-v8-solid-motor-mounts-ready-to-go.447581/

Unsure if they are truly worth the$470 bucks for a little bit of lost energy... thoughts?

 

Nope.


Even slightly stiffer mounts suck unless the vehicle is an all out performance build.

 

You could loosen all the bolts on one side and jack the body up slightly to get a look at the body mounts. Could even remove them one at a time and inspect.

 

I'll agree with this. I have Al subframe bushings and solid motor mounts in one of my SHOs. I can feel it when I run over the damn lines painted on the road.

 

So one big question I have is this:

There's a metric fuck ton of suggestions for shit to replace and we all like spending Noah's money, but the truck will be in the shop. He won't have access to it to do all this shit. So all this adds up to a ton of labor charges from Toyota, correct?

 

Some of it will be included. Body mounts, rear shocks, LSPV, Brake Bleed, lower control arms, cam sleeves...

I'm trying to capitalize on the work that toyota will already be doing. Most bang for my buck.

 

So @TundraGirl2 and I moved the truck back into the yard. Pulled off the upper radiator hose to see how bad everything looks.




Yeah, that's a big pile of rust right on the water outlet coming from the engine.

Shame I don't have enough water pressure to hook a garden hose up to the water inlet at the bottom, and pump water through while I'm running the engine to flush out all the big particles.

What's the smallest diameter pass through the coolant flows through inside the engine? Anyway to get to that easily?

 

Those are purpose-built parts, so it depends on what your purpose of the truck will be. That and ego/bragging rights. I would pass and use the $$$ elsewhere on practical parts for the trucks reliability and longevity of service and use.

 

True on the purpose built. Long term plan is a tow rig. You're 100% right through. I think I will pass on the solid mounts.

 

BTW, I was out in the middle of BF once with no medical services or dentist to be found and had to pull my own wisdom tooth out. It took me 3 hours with nothing for the pain using pliers and a cotton washcloth. I was almost in tears but when I was done I felt relief. When I got back home and told the dentist and his staff my story they stood there slack-jawed in disbelief at what I had done and how. Pussies. Lol

 

If PHM was here he would post that Ric Flair GIF for those rust/coolant pics. That is crazy.

 

I love Ernest! I forgot all about him. Lol

 

After seeing the rusty randy inside the engine, I'm considering changing as many parts as possible that are easy to get to. Obviously, I can't change the block.

Suggestions?


As of right now, I have the TB/WP, Hyd. Tensioner, and radiator with hoses, and thermostat. Will be reusing spring clamps.

Any other ideas on the cooling loop?

 

Just to be clear, are you asking for advice on which codpiece to order?

 

Will the cooling system ever be 100 percent again? Probably not. After changing as much stuff as you can get to and running the flush chemicals through it it'll probably cool just fine. You may just want to do a couple or few coolant flushes periodically for as long as you own it to keep it as good as possible.
If it wasnt such a risk driving it due to TB I'd say drain as much of that out as you can and then run it with water and the cleaning juice and put some miles on it and just keep flushing but without doing the TB/WP first that might be a bad idea.

 

And how far to go with parts changing. I'm fine ordering OEM for the engine, but there are two different part numbers, and I can't tell the difference on mobile device.

 

These trucks and the 4.7L can take a lot of abuse. I agree with Nick and wouldn't worry too much about it. I think after a thorough flush(or 3) it will be ok. Maybe replace the radiator hoses.

 

As of today, here's the things I've ordered with part numbers from where they came from

1. THP108 (THP-108) Aisin Thermostat seal (RockAuto) $ 2.10
   
2. THT015 (THT-015) Aisin Thermostat (RockAuto) $ 14.30
3. BTT502 Aisin Hyd. Tensioner (RockAuto) $ 25.99
4. TKT001 Aisin TB/WP component kit (RockAuto) $ 163.99
   
5. 2210517 (
   $151 221-0517 Radiator
   221-0517) Denso Radiator (RockAuto) $ 116.79
6. 62614 Continental Lower Rad Hose (RockAuto) $ 12.90
   
7. 62680 Continental Upper Rad Hose (RockAuto) $ 11.52
   
8. $37 K060908HD FleetRunner Micro-V Serpentine Drive Belt
   K060908HD Gates Serp. Belt (RockAuto) $ 29.79
   
9. 810104R (8.10104R) Energy suspension Steering Rack Bushings (RockAuto) $ 26.79
10. 33055-0C030 Shift Lever (McGeorge) $42.22
11. 86212-0C010 Radio Mount Bracket (McGeorge) $10.59
12. 86211-0C010 Radio Mount Bracket (McGeorge) $10.59
13. 74451-0C010 Battery Hold Down Stud (McGeorge) $7.47
14. 74404-0C010 Battery Hold Down Frame (McGeorge) $20.45
15. 82821-35020 Battery Terminal Cover X2 (McGeorge) $21.72
16. 16401-20353 Radiator Cap (McGeorge) $12.41
17. 77310-48020 Fuel Tank Cap (McGeorge) $21.90
18. $13 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube
    00295-00103 FIPG Oil Pan Sealer (McGeorge) $11.97

There's still a lot left to be ordered...

 

Radiator in hand as well, but no pics. Mostly undamaged. Very few bent fins. No biggie for me. All nipples are unbroken... good situation.