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Front Diff/Transfer Case Actuator Diagnosing

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by Tundy White, Aug 18, 2019.

  1. Aug 16, 2021 at 3:52 AM
    #31
    yama12

    yama12 New Member

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    realigning actuator gears and battery disconnect. There is some initialization with key sw on. Not sure why N was any different than Park before selecting 2wd to 4wd for setting. No other ECU or special resets were needed.
     
  2. Aug 17, 2021 at 4:21 AM
    #32
    hawkshaw94

    hawkshaw94 New Member

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    Yeah. That worked for me also. However after spending a lovely day on the beach fishing I decided to take it out of 4wd on the way home. Worked crisply but... would not go back in. So when I do the reset it will go in and out of 4hi 100 times if I want. The following day it does not work at all except to take out of 4hi one time only. I am going nuts over this. I am going to play with the old diff. actuator and see which pins control left and right fork movement and try to trick it with a switch. The transfer case works fine and actuates on command.
     
  3. Sep 2, 2021 at 6:40 PM
    #33
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic Amateur Professional

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    A friend shared this document with me and I thought someone here might find it helpful. I might need to recruit help from a friend on how to work with it.
     

    Attached Files:

    huntertn likes this.
  4. Sep 8, 2021 at 1:55 AM
    #34
    ACTunda08

    ACTunda08 New Member

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    2824AC12-10C9-458E-8719-6DE041A2BDD5.jpg Is there a way to get a new micro switch on the 4hi actuator? I broke mine trying to diagnose a failed engagement of 4hi :(
     
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  5. Oct 20, 2021 at 11:36 AM
    #35
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic Amateur Professional

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    I took my Tundra to the dealer to see if they could diagnose the problem any further than I already have. Their systems don't go any more in depth than "replace actuator/transfer case" so they were not able to tell me anything I didn't already know. I'm probably going to look for a used transfer case to swap in to my truck. Does anyone know if the 4.6 and 5.7 transfer cases are the same? If I can't get this solved I might just sell the truck while used values are inflated.
     
  6. Nov 6, 2021 at 10:15 PM
    #36
    Ghillie93

    Ghillie93 New Member

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    Went to replace the upper/lower actuators on the tcase since the old ones were completely shot and have gotten myself into quite a situation..

    Time the new upper/lower actuators and install on the truck, 4hi stops flashing and two wheel drive is working great. Go to put into 4hi and hear the motors whirring away and clink! Now the dashboard is lit up like a Christmas tree and the truck has gone into neutral. Driver column is worthless now, only can find neutral regardless of position.

    I spent hours adjusting the those tcase rods by hand trying to find a gear but was unable. I was able to engage and disengage the front driveshaft from the tcase though. Also something to note is when I lifted the rear end off the ground when in neutral my rear tires were rotating as if in gear but very slowly. I could stop them by hand, let go, and they would begin rotating again. Truck almost rolled out of my driveway when I had it shut off and lowered it off of the jackstands.

    My only idea left is that I need to somehow do a hard reset on the ecu/transmission (I've tried disconnecting the battery) and then line up these tcase rods to match wherever I time the actuator switches. Can anyone confirm without a doubt which one is engaging 4wd and 4Hi/Lo because I keep finding conflicting info online.
     
    Sequoia_XLR8R likes this.
  7. Nov 7, 2021 at 6:43 AM
    #37
    huntertn

    huntertn New Member

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    Someone posted the PDF before and it shows which actuator does what.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. Nov 7, 2021 at 7:26 AM
    #38
    Ghillie93

    Ghillie93 New Member

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    Thank You!!
     
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  9. Nov 7, 2021 at 7:40 AM
    #39
    Ghillie93

    Ghillie93 New Member

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    I'm sorry but one last question, do we count the pins 1 - 3 from the inside to the outside or from outside to the inside? Thank You so much dude ! (sorry found it in the pdf you provided)
     
    Sequoia_XLR8R likes this.
  10. Feb 16, 2022 at 7:11 PM
    #40
    Norcalocal

    Norcalocal New Member

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    A bolt on front differential ring gear backed out and was forced through the diff case. After replacing the axles with RCV (very sting), and rebolting the ring gear there is an audible clunk when engaged in 4wd. It would rip the boots on the RCV cv, so replaced axles with normal aftermarket, and the cvs broke almost immediately when 4wd is engaged. No issues when in 2wd. No dash light issues, lights function as it should when turning switches.

    When removing the front drive shaft and engaging 4wd there’s no clunk and axles are fine. Totally stumped on what the issue could be. I’m running a coilover lift, and arb locker (not engaged).

    could it be a actuator or something wrong with the transfer case?
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2022
  11. Feb 23, 2022 at 2:42 PM
    #41
    Snarley

    Snarley New Member

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    Alright. 07 tundra. 5.7l

    I get the c1340 code. Tease actuator recently replaced.

    Vsc off light flashes. And hi light flashes. Truck Tcase appears stuck in neutral.

    Anyone able to point me to a decent diag description?
     
  12. Apr 16, 2022 at 7:43 PM
    #42
    Sequoia_XLR8R

    Sequoia_XLR8R New Member

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    I fixed mine based on some of the information here.
    Here’s my YouTube video I created for those who might need it.
    Leave a like and a comment if you feel inclined.

    https://youtu.be/hpf2wFBBXg0
     
  13. Apr 16, 2022 at 7:45 PM
    #43
    Sequoia_XLR8R

    Sequoia_XLR8R New Member

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    I fought this for three days…I made a YouTube video of my struggles.

    https://youtu.be/hpf2wFBBXg0
     
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  14. Apr 18, 2022 at 7:44 PM
    #44
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic Amateur Professional

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    Nice video, very distracting music. Want to come fix mine for me?
     
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  15. Apr 18, 2022 at 8:49 PM
    #45
    Sequoia_XLR8R

    Sequoia_XLR8R New Member

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    Thanks for the feedback - I realized it after the fact that the music was waaaay to over modulated. And I figured out how to fix it after I’d already uploaded it to YouTube. :/

    I’ll pass on coming and fixing yours for the time being. Lol.
     
  16. Apr 19, 2022 at 11:20 PM
    #46
    Yotaholic

    Yotaholic Amateur Professional

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    Rats. Was worth a shot haha
     
  17. Apr 20, 2022 at 7:45 AM
    #47
    baraynavab

    baraynavab Toyo Junkie

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    Yeah @Sequoia_XLR8R music may be a little distracting but overall the video was very helpful. Thanks for all your efforts to make it work. Really helps out a lot of us who will get this issue at one time or another..
     
  18. May 14, 2022 at 10:12 AM
    #48
    dmonroeh

    dmonroeh New Member

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    Thanks for all of the info posted in this thread. Working on my 2012 Tundra and have a quick question below.
    After removing and reinstalling both hi and low Tcase actuators I am getting a tapping and beeping sound from the hi actuator after it is switched from 2h to 4h. Has anyone else run into this?

    The actuator seems to be moving the Tcase in and out of 2h and 4h correctly as I can rotate the front shaft independent of the rear when in 2h but not in 4h but that's as far as it goes. The ADD doesn't make a peep and it wont engage the 4wd.

    Moving up to check out the ADD actuator next.
     
  19. Oct 31, 2022 at 9:45 AM
    #49
    VWTim

    VWTim Mid-Travel Crew

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    Thanks for taking the time to make a video. I've got my 4Hi working from other posts, but am now fighting 4lo. Going to try your clocking and adjustments tomorrow night.
     
  20. Nov 2, 2022 at 9:12 AM
    #50
    VWTim

    VWTim Mid-Travel Crew

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    Another note that may help people setup the timing on their 4LO actuator:

    I followed the clocking info from the YT video posted above and kept coming up 1 tooth off and caused a false neutral. After cycling it, I'd pull the actuator off and the shaft would be 1 tooth away from seated IN.

    I ended up setting at the clock angle shown on the video, then manually adjusted position from the motor drive gear to allow it to mesh with the housing a degree or so counterclockwise. I lined it all up, got the gears engaged and the shaft started, then had to rotate the actuator assy just a little, causing the 4lo selector to be slightly preloaded. Now works like a charm!
     
  21. Nov 30, 2022 at 10:33 AM
    #51
    VWTim

    VWTim Mid-Travel Crew

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    I've ran into another problem, that I'm not able to currently diagnose (Techstream cable/laptop is out of state) and figured I'd see if anyone else has ran into this. Flying home and will grab it mid Dec.

    Symptoms:
    Truck shifts into 4hi and 4lo without issue at first start of the day. VSC light stays flashing
    Shifts back into 2hi, but then won't go back into 4hi, unless it sits overnight or I key cycle the truck several times.

    No CEL.
    When I attempt 4hi again, the VSC/Trac off lights don't come on during the shifting sequence. I can tell, if the light comes on, it'll go into 4wd. If it doesn't, it will try for a 5 seconds or so, then fast flash 4hi and release the shift solenoid.

    Anyone ran into something similar?
     
  22. Dec 14, 2022 at 10:00 AM
    #52
    VWTim

    VWTim Mid-Travel Crew

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    Finally got Techstream hooked up last night, dreaded C1340 code pointing to ADD actuator. We'll see how far I troubleshoot before I pull the diff for an Eaton E-locker next month.
     
  23. Feb 10, 2023 at 6:18 PM
    #53
    shannon

    shannon New Member

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    Gonna resurrect an old thread, sorry not sorry. Been searching for this info for months. I have all the above symptoms but they seem to only happen when cold, like weather temp 32 and below-ish. It's usually when I need 4wd first thing in the morning. 4hi flashing doesn't engage, switch it back to 2wd, keeps flashing. Flashes for 15-30 minutes of driving goes off and everything works as it should. I have taken the Tcase actuator off, everything looks great. I changed out the switch, nothing changed. I will do the listening thing this weekend. The only thing that's changed at all was an oil change about a month or so before the symptoms I had them do the front diff. Could the wrong weight oil make any of this happen? I'm probably grasping, but man I'm looking for the low hanging fruit. Thanks in Advance.
     
  24. Feb 12, 2023 at 6:45 PM
    #54
    shannon

    shannon New Member

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    The "sound test" went great in warm weather. T case actuator first then add. I'll update next cold spell. There's no way I'm the only one with this problem, or maybe I am.
     
  25. Feb 13, 2023 at 4:14 AM
    #55
    KyToy79

    KyToy79 New Member

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    on a past toyota truck ( 03) ive had the wiring harness un connected at the plug.

    at the transfercase. it almost drove me bananas when i got into a tough situation and needed 4 wheel drive. After a bit of panic, i crawled underneath to check and noticed it.





    .....just thought I'd share.



    ( I'm not sure, but I'm probably the one responsible for not re connecting it securely, after some exhaust work was completed.)
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2023
  26. Feb 13, 2023 at 7:35 AM
    #56
    shannon

    shannon New Member

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    Thanks for sharing. It's not super cold this morning, but the ADD motor in the front was noticeably slower to engage, sounded kinda bogged down. Seems the cold is definitely playing into this. I'll update as I figure out more.
     
  27. Feb 13, 2023 at 12:47 PM
    #57
    KeepOnTruckin

    KeepOnTruckin New Member

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    What fluid do you have in the tc?

    Maybe try a synthetic if not in there already?

    Also keep in mind that not all GL-5 is backwards compatible to GL-4 and can damage the brass syncros.... Always worth a quick read of the product label.

    GL
     
  28. Feb 13, 2023 at 1:52 PM
    #58
    shannon

    shannon New Member

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    I have no idea what's in the transfer case. I think I've ruled out the t-case and am looking at the area of the front axle. I admit, I don't know shit from shinola though. Against my better judgement, I had the dealer change out the diff fluid last fall during a routine oil change. The problem seemed to start a month or so after that. Not sure if that was coincidence or not. Thank you for the reply. Keep the ideas flowing!
     
  29. Mar 2, 2023 at 5:51 AM
    #59
    dnath28

    dnath28 New Member

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    I’m in the same boat as you. Did you get yours figured out? I am in process of getting inspection, I’m realizing I shouldn’t of tinkered with the 4Hi right after buying I should of got inspected first!! Now I have check engine light on and etc..

    Let’s get this figured out together hopefully yours is already done
     
  30. Mar 2, 2023 at 6:08 AM
    #60
    shannon

    shannon New Member

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    Maybe... I'm hesitant to say a definitive yes. I narrowed it down to only happening when it was below 30 degrees. I live on the front range of Colorado and we're typically warmer than that. It's been driving me totally nuts. I've had it to my mechanic twice. He's had it hooked up to all the things and could never diagnose it, probably because it usually warmed up by the time he got to it. I decided to throw parts at it. Seemed like a good idea and I wasn't gonna go over $500. I took the tcase actuator apart, everything was as it should be. I changed out the fluid in the tcase (a member said low fluid would set off a sensor that would prevent it from shifting). I traced wiring all over the place, mechanic double checked it. I replaced the inside switch ($80) no change. I finally decided to replace the ADD actuator, ($250) for an AISIN. That seems to have worked. Haven't seen negative temps, but it's been working in temps that two weeks ago it wouldn't have. I don't know shit about fuck when it comes to electrical, I have no idea why the cold would affect that actuator but it sure seemed to. Sorry for the long reply. Typing it all out kinda felt cathartic. Maybe I need therapy.
     
    dnath28 likes this.

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