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Just some kids AC build WIP

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (2000-2006)' started by wandering_boy, Jan 12, 2021.

?

Whats holding my LCA ans shock together

  1. The proper nut and bolt

    2 vote(s)
    8.3%
  2. Magic

    9 vote(s)
    37.5%
  3. Ur LCA bushings are just screwed.

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  4. Screw driver

    7 vote(s)
    29.2%
  5. No clue

    5 vote(s)
    20.8%
  6. Other

    1 vote(s)
    4.2%
  1. Jan 12, 2021 at 5:19 PM
    #1
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    *edited*
    Other threads involving this heap -
    Secondary Air System replacement:
    https://www.tundras.com/threads/secondary-air-system-sais-replacement-info-and-instructions.90175/
    Headlight assembly replacement: https://www.tundras.com/threads/headlight-assembly-replacement.66316/

    I bought this truck when I was fifteen from a family friend using the money I had saved up from working for a year at my local bike shop. I bought this truck in February and nothing happened until I got my drivers license and started my junior year of high school when I started my schools auto shop program. It started with the basics. Oil change and then I put on some Falken Wildpeak AT3W's. After that, I put a mesh grille on that I got from someone on this forum. Also painted the bumper chrome strip black while I was at it. Come spring 2020 I rounded up some of my friends and we installed Toytecs Boss lift kit(front coilovers with Bilstien shocks with Eibach springs, 1" diff drop, Toytecs boss remote reservoir shocks in the back with a Deaver 3 pack add a leaf). Then the day before Quarantine started in the Bay Area in CA I picked up my Tepui Ayer 2 and I got a Thule bed rack. Over summer I picked up a new front bumper from Brute Force Fab bumper and some KC fog lights. Also slapped on some 12 hole fuel 270cc injectors in stead of the stock 4 from Dirty Deeds Industries. And because I'm still a teenager, I put on a K&N intake. Just a larger filter in the stock air box and new intake tube(57-9027). It also has a Warn EVO 10 S and some Smitty built shackles. Had to take the bumper off so I could slip it in ;) otherwise all I had to do was remount the control box which is still zip-tied, otherwise mounting the fairing and winch was super easy with 2 people. and I found out what some of the weird holes in my bumper are for. Wiring it up to the battery was super easy. there is a hole on the drivers side with easy access. Next up on the list are some Camburg UCA's, New lower ball joints and lower bushings, as well as new carrier bearings. And then we can think about putting a new head unit and other extra fancy bits on it.

    DSC_0215.jpg
    IMG_1964.jpg
    61145624737__6B5F090A-81E0-428C-BDD5-1BCD35856C70.jpg
    Can you figure out whats holding my LCA and shock together?
    No Bumper.jpg
    DSC_0167.jpg
    DSC_0173.jpg
    Winch-1.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2021
    alb1k, potoghi, 15whtrd and 10 others like this.
  2. Jan 12, 2021 at 6:42 PM
    #2
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Great looking truck and a good start at a long life of wrenching. You'll get the new truck bug one day and ditch the tired ol' Tundy. But mark my words, you'll miss her and regret getting rid of it.
     
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  3. Jan 12, 2021 at 6:53 PM
    #3
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    I never want to get rid of this thing. I can't leave the 2 uz-fe. maybe one day it will get pre runnered and I might get something else but I couldn't imagine a better truck. she's reliable problem free (for now) comfy as hell for road trips. and I don't care if I have hvac leather seats or bluetooth. And I'm happy all the nanny crap I have is ABS.
     
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  4. Jan 18, 2021 at 12:50 PM
    #4
    1stgentundradriver

    1stgentundradriver Each sticker adds at least 5hp

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    When we changed the front struts on our tundra the main thing holding the lower control arm to the strut was a single bolt. The other thing was the sway bar link/bolt.
     
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  5. Jan 18, 2021 at 1:39 PM
    #5
    Sunnier

    Sunnier Pity the warrior that slays all his foes

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    Hard to see in that pic. Of the listed choices, I’d say “screwdriver” or “other”. We used a punch to hold ours so we could get the new bolts in from the right direction....
     
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  6. Jan 19, 2021 at 12:32 PM
    #6
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    Correct. It is a screwdriver. Even with the sway bars disconnected all my old bushings didn't want to twist far enough to easily get that lower bolt in. Ended up being super janky and use a bottle jack in between my uca and fender well to push the arms down low enough.
     
    Last edited: May 13, 2021
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  7. Jan 19, 2021 at 1:46 PM
    #7
    1stgentundradriver

    1stgentundradriver Each sticker adds at least 5hp

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    Geez! That sounds pretty rough!
     
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  8. May 13, 2021 at 3:15 PM
    #8
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    My Battery Recently died on me so time for an upgrade. I went ahead and bought an Optima redtop. Install was easy and I also went ahead and got a digital voltmeter so I can more accurately watch my voltage. It's currently just wired in to the harness but I have plans to run a power wire right off the alternator in the future. Also big news. I have some just released Stealth Custom Series Gen 5's in bronze coming (I shit you not they sold out in less than 5 minutes) along with some 32" Wildpeak AT3W's!

    old bat 2.jpg
    Optima-1.jpg
    Voltmeter-2.jpg
    Voltmeter-1.jpg
    voltmeter-3.jpg
     
  9. May 31, 2021 at 4:58 PM
    #9
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    just got my Stealth custom Series Gen 5's 17" x 8.5"- 4.5"bs. With Falken Wilkpeak AT3W's in 265 70 r17 (32x10.5) mounted up. Need to get some nice pics in here once the truck is operational again but I am so stoked on the new wheel and tire set up.
    SCS2.jpg
     
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  10. May 31, 2021 at 5:19 PM
    #10
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    Truck in non Op because check engine light came on and it went into limp mode. Pulled code P1441 and P1444. Air switching valves for the Secondary Air system are broken. So I spent Memorial day and the evening before pulling out my intake manifold to get to the valves. had to cut a few lines to get the manifold off but not to bad for my first time. Getting the valves off were a PITA because half the bolts were up against the fire wall and the other half were blocked by this big plastic harness block. Also took the pump out while I was at it and I think I'm going to pull the main switching valve as well so I never have to do this again. Debating doing the starter as well but I don't want to get too out of control since she still starts in a heart beat. new parts are on order and hopefully we will be running by the end of the week.

    Intake manifold.jpg
    empty valley.jpg
    SA pump.jpg
    switching valve.jpg
     
  11. May 31, 2021 at 6:52 PM
    #11
    1stgentundradriver

    1stgentundradriver Each sticker adds at least 5hp

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    Gee whiz. That’s a lot of work.
     
  12. May 31, 2021 at 6:54 PM
    #12
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    Definitely a 3-4 beer job for you adults and the pump didn't really need to come out but overall It took me about 5 hours including breaks to figure out wtf to do and cleaning the throttle body, manifold and my mess
     
  13. May 31, 2021 at 6:55 PM
    #13
    1stgentundradriver

    1stgentundradriver Each sticker adds at least 5hp

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    That’s awesome you did it on your own and didn’t pay someone else to do it!! Congrats man and great job.
     
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  14. May 31, 2021 at 6:59 PM
    #14
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    Thanks. I thought I was mega boned when I was doing my research especially asking the local shop. but after just sending it last night its a lot more manageable than I though and The Sonoma pump hack really helped the wallet.Since the front end needs new ball joints top and bottom/ I want to install UCA's, tire rod ends, carrier bearing, universal joints, and timing belt and water pump. I think thats all of it...
     
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  15. May 31, 2021 at 7:53 PM
    #15
    1stgentundradriver

    1stgentundradriver Each sticker adds at least 5hp

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    When you are done your truck will be set for a long time.
     
  16. May 31, 2021 at 8:01 PM
    #16
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    I sure hope so.
     
  17. Jun 1, 2021 at 4:35 AM
    #17
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Nice job thus far. Yeah, you should do the Starter while she is open as you don’t want to do this again from the sound of it. Snap some up close pics of the Intakes after cleaning. I’m wondering how clean they actually can get. Always see the gummy before shots, but never see an after shot.
     
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  18. Jun 1, 2021 at 6:18 AM
    #18
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Great job sir. The shade tree mechanic isn't dead after all!!
     
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  19. Jun 1, 2021 at 9:10 AM
    #19
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    I'll go poking around in it today and get some more pics of it "clean" just don't know how to split the thing in 2 so I can really get in there.
     
  20. Jun 1, 2021 at 9:44 AM
    #20
    Cg13055

    Cg13055 @yota.parts.distributor

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    My 4.7 is leaking from more places than I can possibly imagine
     
  21. Jun 1, 2021 at 9:46 AM
    #21
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    Weird. My 2000 4.7 only has a little weep on the back of the motor that I assume is rear main seal (260k+ miles). Every thing else is dry as a bone.
     
  22. Jun 1, 2021 at 9:48 AM
    #22
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    While I was checking my clapped out ball joint the other day. I found a leak from the passenger side head somewhere so thats fun. The leak made it all the way down a power steering line and on to the passenger side steering rack boot. I inspected it some more with everything off and I could be the head gasket, could be the vvti actuator. Who knows. Oh the joys of old Yotas. The motor may run forever but you have to fix everything around them.
     
  23. Jun 1, 2021 at 9:50 AM
    #23
    Cg13055

    Cg13055 @yota.parts.distributor

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    It will run forever but I like my trucks with the oil inside the engine, which happens to cost alot to make possible
     
  24. Jun 1, 2021 at 10:13 AM
    #24
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    In my 16 years of ownership, I've spent less than $2000 on engine maintenance and repairs. That includes new exhaust manifolds both sides. Starter contacts and intake gaskets. A timing belt change with valve cover gaskets. approx. 20 oil changes and 2 sets of plugs. 8 air filters and 3 O2 sensors. All of the original engine accessories are still going strong. I've replaced no engine components save the waterpump with TB change. It has only a slight oil weep on the rear of the engine that never drips to the ground, no check engine lights and still gets 15.6mpg mixed driving. I paid $16k for this truck in 2005 with 99k miles on it. It has been the best vehicle and given the best bang for the buck.
     
  25. Sep 4, 2021 at 5:39 PM
    #25
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    Been a bit since I've updated this thread but In July is got new JBJ's before a ten 10 road trip/camping trip from California through Oregon and Washington. After that I headed down to San Diego for some camping. We passed the 150,000 mile mark at the beginning of the first trip. And I can finally fulfill my promise of posting some good pics with the new wheels
    tundra-g-8.jpg
    tundra-g-9.jpg
    tundra-g-4.jpg
    tundra-g-7.jpg
     
  26. Sep 4, 2021 at 9:27 PM
    #26
    Sunnier

    Sunnier Pity the warrior that slays all his foes

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    Great to see some trip pics. :)

    Do you live in SoCal, and will you come out to play in the dirt with us, when the heat lets up?
     
  27. Sep 4, 2021 at 10:19 PM
    #27
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    Unfortunately not. I Live in the Bay area. I just spend my summers in So Cal generally in the San Jacinto mountain's over in riverside Co. But for the next four years I will be French toasty's neighbor down in Arizona for college.
     
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  28. Nov 23, 2021 at 2:13 PM
    #28
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    I'm adding this little bit partially just to give this thread an update since I haven't been driving while I'm in college. Partially so maybe one of you will hold me to this and partially as way to organize the chaos that needs to ensue. Anyway since I finally live in a place where I can actually go wheeling and camping on the weekends and since the Ol' Tundy is finally broken in and hit 150,000 mi over the summer it's come to the time where one would contemplate selling it or dumping a bunch of money in it. Obviously I would never sell it. The only way I'm parting with it is if it dies or it's totaled. So that means I need to figure out just how much - ish money need to get dumped into this beauty. First the major stuff. I don't know when the timing belt was replaced last but even if it was done previously its time once again. The belt doesn't look bad but I don't want to risk it with a potential OE or at least pretty old belt that sat in the So Cal desert. And of course I will also replace the water pump while I'm sat it. Anything else I should have done While it is all ripped apart> Next is Front diff, transfer case fluid changes as well as probably at least a full flush and filter replacement on the trans. I also got a bunch of Moog goodies for the front end a while ago. I got new lower ball joints, LCA bushings, and inner and outer tire rods. The ball joints went on before my big summer trip so the rest needs to go on along with my sweet Camburg UCA's which I picked up 15% off on a Black Friday deal. Next are some minor things. Alignment after the front end is practically replaced, inside and out clean and detail, Probably some thicker gauge wires for the KC fog lights as well as running the switch in the cab to constant 12v rather than just when the headlights are on. This also lets me fix the absolute booger solder and heat shrink and electrical job I did the first time around. I think that is it. I will update this If I think of anything else.
     
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  29. Nov 23, 2021 at 5:32 PM
    #29
    TRDGen

    TRDGen Schnooogins

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    Tldr... Dump all the money into it. That's what I did. Lol
     
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  30. Nov 24, 2021 at 2:16 AM
    #30
    wandering_boy

    wandering_boy [OP] Junior Tech Wizard

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    Don't let a kid out smart you.
    TLDR... I am
     
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