Key Fob Replacement 2002 Tundra

Based on what I’ve read I’m thinking this is my keyless box? And I cut the tape to get the FCC ID?

 

Mine was a light gray box covered in foam. I had to move the ball duct vent to get to it.

 

Thanks, so dig deeper and remove stuff. Will do. Also have a feeler out to the old owner in case he finds the old fob. He did say he located the missing headrest. The quote was “it was incompatible with the Stetson” at which point I complimented his risk tolerance on rear impact based on the plethora of coconut sized eggs on the rear bumper.

 

Yeah there is no way in hell I'd drive without a headrest. I actually knew a guy who had his neck broken that way.

 

First post...be gentle. LOL!

So I've been struggling with my new-to-me 2005 double cab and getting remotes programmed. The car came with only one generic remote that had no markings or codes, either on the case or on the PCB inside the case. I ordered remotes and tried several different programming instructions, and none would work. I could get into programming mode with the attached document, but could never get the remotes to be recognized. I confirmed that my truck had factory installed keyless entry, but it has "KARR Security" stickers on the windows (?!?). Anyway, after many (MANY!) attempts, much use of expletives, and poring over forums and threads like this one, I found that the instructions are WRONG. When using the following modification (which matches the next step), I was able to program the remotes without issue. I hope this helps anyone else that might also be struggling:

 

Woohoo.

From what I’ve read, I think I can use the more rectangular style of fob?

 

Guys...first thank all of you for your input and guidance! I was able to successfully add a BAB237131-022 key fob to my factory installed RS3000 (BAB237000-129). Of course, in order to program the key fob...I had to correct the wiring under the ignition switch since it was looped together. After that...worked like a charm. I did want to share an issue I discovered after successful programming. The range of my key fob was pathetic...like 1-2' from vehicle...and it was spotty reception. I tried extending the antenna from the RS3000, but no change...then I thought it may be the battery...so I opened the key fob. Inside there is a metal battery contact that is connected to the circuit board, which when closed is pressed against the circuit board. There is a thin dielectric coating to protect the metal contact from shorting against the circuit board, but the manufacturer must be aware of this issue because a irregular shaped piece of adhesive (definitely hand cut) was placed in this area as well. But as you can see in the pic with the red circle...the contact had cut through the original piece of adhesive and was allowing the contact to short out. I placed 2 layers of electrical tape, closed the key fob back up...and BAM!!! I can now lock/unlock from up to 50' away. I hope this helps someone down the road.

 

Daveeasa...were you able to locate the ECU? I have a 2002 Tundra and it was above the taped block in your first pic...actually I had to remove the nut that was securing the taped electrical block to the firewall. My ECU had a metal frame attached and was secured behind that same nut. Once I removed that, I was able to pull the ECU down into the floorboard...remove the foam wrapped around it and see the RS # and FCC ID info.

 

Thanks for that intel! My truck has been patiently parked at the airport for my wife’s flight. She returns tonight so I hope to dive back in. Going to try a $12 key w built in fob if I can get to the unit to try to program it. I assume I’ll have to redo the connectors, not quite sure I understand that part but hoping I can guess my way through. Maybe this weekend if all goes well.

 

@deh4170 This is some quality content you are putting out. I've noticed my fobs have a pathetic range also so I may try the tape trick. Nice work.

 

Thanks FirstGenVol...hope that resolves your issue as well. My fob was just purchased off of the "e_ay" site...so hopefully if you have a similar one that may be the problem. I'm in Knoxville...saw the Vol in your name and then saw you are in TN too. This is the one I bought:

 

@deh4170 did you feel adventurous at all on trying the -056 fob option? This is the one I got, guess it was $18 not $13. Still cheaper than the fob-only option (granted I'd also need to get it cut).

Anyone know of any sexy options for the -022 style? Seems like there are zero? I can live with it but it looks so dated...

 

That appears to be the same one I ordered off eBay. And yes, I wanted FirstGenTundra but it was taken. I picked Vol for the Volunteers.

 

Daveeasa...first and most important piece is to know what ECU module you have...gotta get to that keyless ECU! Before I purchased a key fob...I went to the FCC site for the manufacturer of my RS3000 ECU (which had FCC ID BAB237000-129). Website - https://fccid.io/BAB - from there I scrolled down to find my model (notice that BAB237000-129 specifically says "Vehicle Alarm System Receiver Original Equipment")...clicked on the hyperlink and it showed that the frequency was 303.875. Now, right above that on the list was BAB2371331-022 "Automotive Security Alarm Transmitter Original Equipment"...clicked on hyperlink and it shows it transmits at same frequency of 303.875 MHz.

The BAB237131-056 is there as well and shows to be a "Security Transmitter Class II Permissive Change" transmitting at 303.89 MHz...so if you have the same RS3000 as me...I'm not sure it will work because of the frequency variance. Below are what you should see on the website if you scroll down the page. I also included the pic of what the ECU should look like.

 

Awesome, so I'll be off by 15 KHz potentially? I'll see what my label says. The fob (pictured above) is -022 just like yours so I'm confident I can just go that route if I fail out but figured $18 was totally worth a gamble b/c I don't really love the form factor of those grey oval fabios.

 

I think I found the snake. Moment of truth.



Anyone know what the rest of the connectors are all about?

 

no thats a junction connector block.
the keyless would be tucked in the crash bar basically

junction connections

 

Daveeasa...your first pic is the keyless ECU...that is what you were looking for...peel back the foam and you will see the model # and FCC ID. Also, you should see the opening on the side of the ECU with a green button. This is what you press to program or erase the ECU key fobs. Read my notes on the pics below to correct the looped wiring. Your second pic is a junction block...you need to put all the connectors back together and tape back up...these are NOT involved.

 

Yep, understood, I was mostly curious about what the connectors could be used for.

got the plugs redone but so far no joy on my key as expected because it’s the -056. I’m tempted to try a flip designated as -022 and see if that works. Don’t really want to carry both fob and key, that’s kind of annoying, but if it’s the only option still better than putting the key into the door.

 

Which model of ECU did you have? Same as mine with same FCC ID?

 

My fob is here. I just don’t have physical access to it as it’s with my 2nd headrest at the prior owners house.

The unit looks like -129 so both my receiver and transmitter are a match with yours.

 

Yep...wiring looks good. Remember too that the ECU (from everything I have read) will only store (4) key fobs...so if previous owner(s) had (4) programmed and none of the key fobs are in your possession, you will need to clear the ECU by pressing green button for (3) seconds...release...and press for another (2) seconds...you should see instrument cluster lights flash and hear the piezo under the hood chirp (3) times. FYI...if you want to know where piezo is...it's under hood on driver side just outside of firewall close to fender. Short wire to round black plastic housing...about the size of a marshmallow

 

Yeah, I’m 100% sure they did not add any fobs.

Any thoughts on chances this or this will work?

 

Pretty slick key! If it's the same FCC ID...then it should be transmitting on the same frequency as the oval fob. Remember that only (1) button on the remote programs to lock/unlock the truck. Also, same button if held for 3 seconds will trigger the "panic mode" and make the horn beep on the truck...another single click turns it off.

 

I might give one a try. They are kinda ugly but I really would prefer to have a single key/fob vs separate ones.

 

Crossing my fingers this works.

They even have a logo, quite a nice touch.

 

Just a heads up review for those looking to buy this key off ebay.. Mine lasted about one year tops before the inner guts of the fob wore and gave out. Buttons stopped working. Had to press harder and harder. Thought it was the battery, changed it out and didn't fix anything. The guts inside now rattle from me pushing the buttons harder and harder. I now just use the key hole on the doors.

 

Hit me with an address and I'll send you mine, maybe you can swap the guts or just program it and cut it? I can't use it, off by a few KHz.

 

Thank you for the kind gesture. Class act.

I would take you up on it, but that wouldn't work on my truck as our FCC numbers/frequencies are different.