Trail Edition Hangout/Confirmed Fit Tonneau Covers

I looked hard at the RCI and talked to them - that is an awesome product! In the end, I was going to want the aluminum version from them and that brought it to within $25 of what my dealer sold me the TRD for (also aluminum). My experience thus far with the Toyota aftermarket parts (Predator steps, made in USA and TRD skid plate, made in Canada) is that there is an impressive level of engineering and and manufacturing quality.

I don't personally feel you can go wrong with either choice. I originally preferred the RCI because it kept the black and white look I have going, but I admit I really enjoy the little pop of red I have with the TRD plate and painted hooks.

Last thing - this truck is my daily driver and I don't anticipate much, if any, off-road duty. The decision for me to get an aftermarket skid plate was purely to make oil changes easier and had nothing to do with different or added protection. Those who might need that kind of protection would need to weigh in. I do know that RCI offers an entire suite of protection products that can extend to and past the transmission.

 

readylift 3/2 leveling kit

 

I would like to inquire about the oil change factor, what holds the door on the skid? I mean I have five 12mm bolts to back out which takes like a minute with air ratchet, so I don't see much difference, but I don't have the skid to compare to. I gained the loss of the front fasteners when I changed the bumper. I definitely agree with you on off roading, from what I can see those look like maybe 1/8" plate skids, won't protect much from a serious occurance such as a tree stump or protruding rock, depends on many factors of course.

 

Cool, thanks! Might have to take a look and maybe I can make an EZ access door on the stock "water bottle deflector". Don't really need a heavy skid because I have the front receiver to act as a cow catcher already.

 

Had Falken Wildpeak AT3w’s put on earlier today.

 

Size?

 

My headache rack and custom bed rails went on today, pics coming soon, just need to finish wiring all the lights. Might have a buyer for my stock tires too, so maybe I'll upgrade sooner than I was planning, time will tell. Just hate to see a good set of tires go to waste. We all have some good looking trucks, keep the love, wash and wax em before it gets hot.

 

285/65R18

Could have easily gone larger with no suspension mods, but the 12mpg on my first tank reaffirmed my choice.

 

Are those flares factory equipment? Maybe a particular package on your truck?

 

“Factory” as I optioned when ordering/request. I believe the regional hubs put them on though, which in my case is GulfStates port in Houston, before shipment to the dealer. I had also requested bed lights but they notified my local dealer that those wouldn’t work due to the Trail Edition boxes.

 

Still need a nice tone exhaust, tires, and a custom hard bed cover. Getting better and much more "truck" like!

 

Never contacted the rails or the boxes, and never drilled into the truck bed. Only cut out the stake pocket holes in the caps and put old fashioned expandable rubber stake pocket anchoring points on the bottom of my 3*3" angle iron rails before dropping them on, I used the factory headache rack brackets as templates to drill my own brackets before welding them to the rails. Bolted up the rack, then tightened up the anchor points. Nice and solid, no holes in the truck body. Maybe not good for those concerned about payload capacity as it is a heavy assembly, about 325 lbs of steel with the rear cross bar mounted. When I add the cover, it will likely add 200 lbs also. Just enough for a nice ride in my opinion.

 

Post 1.75” leveling kit with 285/65r18 Falken Wildpeak at3w and N-Fab Epyx step bars. More to come, waiting on my super white front bumper covers and few other add-ons to arrive.

 

Looks great. Pretty much in line what I'm hoping to do one day. Any rubbing with the 285s?

 

By the looks of the news lately, you might need to get some pontoons, a rudder, and a prop put on that truck. Stay afloat!!

 

None at all, even before the leveling kit.

 

285 width might still rub depending on sidewall heighth, some tall sidewalls kinda bulge a bit wider than the tread area, that is one factor I am concerned with because I want to go 285/75 r18 on stock rims. Might not make it on the distance between the UCA'S and tires. If it works, it will be close, that much I do know.

 

I had 285/75/18 Duratracs ( a 35.1 x 11.2) on stock wheels and there was plenty of room between the tire and UCA. I've got Method Roosts now, so even more room. Switching out my Duratracs to the new Toyo AT3s this week hopefully. After 3 balance attempts on Duratracs, I'm done with them.

 

I am also thinking the Toyo AT3, hope you have better luck.

 

Did you change UCAs when you added Toytec coilovers?

 

No.
Still running stock UCAs. May order some JBAs soon though.

 

Cool, thanks, reason I asked is cuz my SPC UCA's have the ball joint inward a bit further than the stock location which puts the sidewalls closer to the spindles. Hopefully there is a lot of room for pushing the LCAs outward with the cams, then turn rotate the upper ball joint a bit and gain more clearance, just won't know for sure until I get it on an alignment rack and find out what is possible. Trying to avoid spacers, but maybe a 3mm thick ring type on the front would work. Definitely not doing anything bolt on because I need a max weight capacity rear axle. Worst case, buy a set of rims with a plus 40 offset which will net me about 3/4" more space than I have right now and still keep the tire inside the well to help keep the rocks and mud off the paint. Appreciate your time sharing your information.

 

No problem. We are all here to help each other the best we can.

 

Welcome aboard!

 

Did you get the soft or hard one?