What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

its normal to have a lake under the truck depending on the weather.. nothing to worry about.

 

Lumber prices got me bouta act a damn foo'.

 

You need a crew and some black, lowered honda civics. And to live your life a quarter mile at a time.

 

That's my neighbors house in the background. My truck is backed up to my garage in the pic. You can't see it. Some LLC just bought that house and is going to flip it I assume. Mine does have a metal pan on top of the chimney that needs to be replaced though. It's on my list.

 

That looks like proper usa hardwood.

 

What's at the other end of the chimney? Will you heat with wood?

 

Couple of Observations on my 2002 Tundra 4.7L:

1) My 6 month new(er) OEM Fan Clutch is working very nicely in this warmer weather. I can feel and hear the volume changes in Air Pull compared to the worn out oldie.

2) My Thermostatic Trans Oil Valve is holding nicely. Was pretty hot to the touch the other day in hot weather. I could feel the upper hose leading to the air cooler was hot as well (meaning its allowing ‘bypass’ as designed). My Aluminum Bracket was warm as well. Haven’t monitored any temps in a long time with the gauges so no idea in terms of actual numbers.

 

No it's a gas chimney we'll never use.

Here is the pic the inspector saw. I thought about trying to paint it with some rust converter but figured that might be a lazy approach. I don't want it to stain the new-ish hardie board.

 

I have ordered aluminum from airparts out of kc. That would be a permanent solution.

We had a similar gas chimney in an old house. Are you guys staying in this house for a while or moving in 2 years?

 

Normal for me here on the east coast.

 

If you live in a green state expect a puddle. If you live in the brown states grab some chapstick.

 

As others have said, yeah, it's normal - I even have it in one of the brownest sections possible in the US - and in fact you should worry if you didn't, as apparently the drain tube can get clogged, which could result in various issues in the cab.

I found this out because I get a funky musty smell from my AC when I first turn it on, even here in bone dry Phoenix, and learned about the drain tube then. I made sure mine was clear, and I've taken everything apart, blasted water at the fins, brushed the green / brown gunk off. It lasted...I dunno a couple of weeks? Can't figure out why it keeps coming back.



Funny @onesojourner mentioned chapstick. Just saw this at a Woodworker's Source, figured I'd give it a try for my cold-weather trips to the high and dry parts of Utah.

(Made the mistake of looking excited about the cash-register impulse buy before finding out the price....$4 for a small tube (it's even thinner than most chapsticks), but being a Real Manly Man I couldn't put it back at that point, could I?)

 

I assume we're going to be in this house a while.

 

We had a really bad ice storm several years ago. We had gas heat at the time but I knew a lot of people who were without power and heat for 2 weeks. I had a gas log at the time. It was for looks only, it did not provide any heat. I ran a stainless steel insulated liner and installed a nice little cast iron jotul stove. We built a new house and took the stove. It has paid for itself many times at this point. I like knowing that I can keep my family warm. It's worth considering if you do need to do some work to that chimney.

 

Crossposted from my “build” thread. Thanks to all who’ve posted and weighed in on this. I was finally able to get my steering wheel audio controls wired up. I used a Lexus GX470 airbag w/ cover with audio switches and a

$68 AXXES Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

Metra Axxess ASWC-01 box.



Before and after:




My 2005 Double Cab is an SR5/XSP and didn't have the audio controls nor did it have the wiring at the clock spring (only 3 wires coming out).



I also have only a 12 pin harness at the back of my stereo, rather than the 20 pin as most others have.



To make things easier, I snagged a clock spring harness with the 7 wires coming out of it from an 04 Sequoia in a pick n pull rather than re-pinning my existing clock spring plug.



Here's the pinout for the plug coming OUT of the clock spring. The colors may vary, but the pin position seems to be correct across many models.



Cut and soldered my original three wires from the 10, 11, 12 positions onto the new donor pigtail.



From the factory, I had wires in positions 10, 11, 12 which are for the cruise control and horn. I added wires to 4, 5, 6, 7 positions and used a Metra Axxess ASWC-01 box.

To use an aftermarket stereo, wire *from the clock spring* as follows:

pin 4 - connect to Metra black wire AND ground
pin 5 - connect to Metra green/orange wire
pin 6 - connect to Metra black/green wire
pin 7 - 12v+ switched with taillights to illuminate steering wheel switches at night
Metra ASWC-01 red wire to switched 12v+
Metra ASWC-01 3.5" mini jack plugs into aftermarket stereo remote control input

Works perfectly!

https://youtu.be/mCsFiYG9V2w

Thanks to many but especially to @MrDirtjumper for his help here and @BubbaW for the help here.

 

I love the warm weather. No exhaust manifold leak sounds. Am now preying it will stay that way up till September at the next vehicle inspection. Changing the manifold out will not be an option till I fix the holes in the bottom of the frame where the front jack points lie.

I miss the days I could give a friend $15 and he could come by with an inspection sticker for me at the end of the day.

 

Got my exhaust tip in today and it’s bigger than I thought it would be. The clamp will only work if the end of the tip is on the ‘bulbous’ end of the exhaust. Not crazy about how this looks and may need to take it to an exhaust shop and have them weld it up.

 

Maybe Shpray Paint the rest of the pipe under the truck with Flat Black Ceramic BBQ paint to highlight the shiny new tip. It would compliment and highlight your new addition.

 

Got my new foglights today and started mocking up the mounts.

 

Got my new door latch. Everything looks the same as the original one as far as I can tell. Also got some of the door check reinforcements from the IG dude. $45 shipped for DCs. My driver's door check is getting lazy so I might try the @RUSTYNUTS fix.

 

What latch did you end up going with and price?

 

https://parts.lewistoyota.com/p/63296568/693040C010.html

$131 with free shipping.

 

Please, please please, please post up a tutorial! I'd love to do this!

 

Why does nobody make a pod adapter for those ovals? Minimal demand? It seems like such an easy part to injection mold.

 

I think they'd be relatively easy to replicate with a 3D printer.

 

Yes, that would certainly work, but with the sales figures and how reliable they are, seems like there is more than enough of a market to justify a generic injection molded plastic snap-in part to convert from oval to round pod style matching modern Tacoma/Tundra.

 

So we were talking about reinforcement for the door thingy? I might need one.

 

Whoa! Maybe we do need these for PM? Yours look Fubar’d though.