Truck Died on I-70.

Have you tried replacing the fuel relay? Relay may have gone bad.. oldie but goodie my 1uz would do the same thing so I've replaced my relays and so far so good... I didn't read everything but I hope it's not a flex fuel.. lol.. otherwise we'd all be way off..

 

not a flex fuel and I did swap out the relay. No luck.

 

I don’t understand spending “a couple hours” and not going through and itemizing every system they examined for the cause. Reproducing the problem is obviously the easiest way to diagnose, but what would they do if it didn’t start? They would go in and examine systems looking for the cause, ruling out stuff, until they thought they found the culprit.

I really try to avoid being a dick to people I’m asking to repair my vehicle, or prepare my food, or perform a medical procedure, or repair a plumbing system, or ... but at some point these guys need to do some work, don’t they? I mean, this is a mechanical system that is failing and putting you and your family at risk. Is there another Toyota dealership in range that might show more initiative?

 

It’s at Stevinson West.

 

The thing with fuel filters, either inline or in-tank, is they stop up if you get trash with your gas (the reason I asked about bad gas).

Sediment/trash accumulates on the filter surface as the vehicle is driven until it finally stops the fuel flow. The engine quits, and fuel stops being drawn forward. After a short wait, gravity pulls some sediment down off the filter surface allowing some fuel flow, engine then starts, cycle repeats.

If this were my problem, and the geniuses at the dealership couldn't find any problems with the diagnostic tools at their disposal, I believe I would drop the tank to inspect the tank and fuel pump/fuel filter. But, if you're going to do that, you might as well just replace the fuel pump (if there are any available). If you find crap in your tank and filter, and you can't find a new fuel pump, clean it all up and put it back together. It might be throwing parts at a problem, but the alternative is feeling around in the dark until the techs get lucky.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O97GvWp8LdI

 

Very well explained about the fuel filter being clogged!! My truck became much more responsive once I bypassed my internal filter and installed an external filter.

 

Parked at DIA for a week and now it’s broke? Would be surprised if it’s not rodent damage, been there. Fuel system would throw fuel system related codes I do believe.

 

Easy free thing to try is remove battery and clean terminals and treat with dielectric grease trickle charge the battery and reassemble.

 

Will do, thanks.

 

Have they duplicated the condition at all? Once that happens a quick diagnostic should show what part of the combustion process is missing.

"Engine stall history" is the description for a generic code that doesn't really offer much value in the way of diagnostics (p1603). It should have freeze frame data that could possibly offer some insights but not likely.

Internet speculation would be all I could offer without having the vehicle, watch fuel pressure with a gauge and data list for abnormalities. Best guess for condition described fuel pump over heating and shutting down, once it cools you can start it again. Sometimes the fuel pump controller can cause the same issue.

I've seen coils internally short causing the IGF signal to drop putting the ECU in a fail safe and shutting down everything.

So many possibilities, had one with rodent damage to the wires at the charcoal canister that would short the 5v source side of the ECU shutting the truck down when it rained.

Likely a fuel pump though, let them work it through more diligently this time.

 

I'd take it to an independent shop... used to drive an 06 Range Rover and it died going around a corner on I-90, wouldn't start back up until like 10 minutes later. Believe the shop replaced the ignition terminals, hasn't happened since for me or the new owner.

 

Crank sensor? Rodent damage or just going bad. Had a 05 V8 4runner that would just cut out and then be fine a bit later, found a bad crank sensor. Cam sensors can do it too, check those.

 

They told me I can’t talk to him.

 

Sounds like a fuel issue. Fuel pump or something in the tank that covers the pickup tube. Years ago I drove a jeep that would do the same. It had what we called a sock over the end of the tube. It was so old and polluted it would allow you to drive local but when you were on the highway trying to go fast it would starve the fuel system. I'm not sure what these trucks have in the tank or where the fuel filter is even located haven't had mine long enough to come across a fuel system issue yet.
My suggestion is to change the fuel filter first and work your way up. Oh and go to another dealer/ mechanic.

 

This could also be the fuel pump control module. They are rather inexpensive if you get a used pull.

 

I remember them, LOL

 

Dielectric grease is not conductive...use this instead.

$34 MG Chemicals - 846-80G Carbon Conductive Grease, 80g Tube

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T8ROWA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8

 

What about security? I've been trying to get a new key working, with no luck, got sick of opening my door over and over so going to the stealership today. But the chip in the key cuts the fuel off I think? New key or keys?

 

Good stuff. I prefer MG's conductive paste. Easier to use. Won't run or bleed.

 

Almost everything people are suggesting would cause the computer to throw a code. Bad fuel, starvation, etc. Anything that causes a cylinder to not fire will be picked up as a lean condition and generate a code. What will not cause a cause a code would be the ECU shutting off. So unless there's a code (all I read was "it stalled") to direct you to a part I wouldn't be swapping things hoping to randomly fix it.

The dealer seems like they have technicians who don't know what they are doing. The first thing they should have done was connect up their diagnostic tools to the computer to record what's going on. At that point they should have drove the truck (even if it was just around the lot) to see if it would stall.

 

Thanks, will check it out

 

Did you ever figure out the problem? I'm having a similar issue with my 2011.

 

I spent the money and replaced the fuel pump. No problems since then. Knock on wood.

 

Huzzah!

 

I had this issue. It'd happen from time to time but would start back up. Worst time it happened was on Berthoud Pass...

I cleaned out the entire throttle body, airbox, replaced filter. Then had the dealership flush the fuel rails, they call it a fuel system cleaning or something like that. Never happened again, then a few weeks ago another weird gremlin hit the tranny. Got fed up and just sold it on Carvana for top dollar. It's their problem now.

 

My truck (2011 Tundra) will start, run for 1 minute (1:04 each time) and then stall out. It will start right back up immediately and repeat the same cycle. Just trying to see if anyone had similar issues with fixes... Thanks!

 

Yeah I replaced the fuel pump/filter. No dice...