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700hp, 40s, bypasses, tube chassis rock buggy build

Discussion in 'Other Builds' started by snivilous, Mar 2, 2020.

  1. Feb 13, 2021 at 11:05 AM
    #121
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Originally I was going to make them, I can't find a double cardan kit though and considering how simple the rear is probably just have someone build that. As for the front, the shaft off the atlas to the intermediate I'll make, the intermediate carrier shaft comes as a kit, so that leaves the front portion to the axle from the intermediate which really should be a double cardan too (in which case I'd again need someone to make it) but I might just build that shaft myself as a normal u joint shaft since the angles are so low.

    TLDR probably build the fronts, and have someone do the rear
     
  2. Feb 19, 2021 at 4:45 PM
    #122
    pickeledpigsfeet

    pickeledpigsfeet New Member

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    Buggy is looking badass. I havent kept up with dshaft builder’s current reputations, but Jesse at High Angle used to be one of the best.

    I sold my Ftoy and just picked up this beauty today. Just need to decide what I want do. I have multiple sets of front/rear toy axles and drivetrains so probably going that route.

    A29B0FAB-AC49-4820-A055-A8DB1EBD261D.jpg
     
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  3. Feb 19, 2021 at 6:00 PM
    #123
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    That thing is sweet! I never knew anything about samurais and it seems like in the past few years a lot of my friends have them. The chick who races one, I have a friend in SLC with one on 47s, and another friend with a stock one. All of them own multiple too :D

    I was thinking of going to six states, a few people say they're good. Otherwise Tom Woods and JE Reel apparently are good, high angle is good to from what I've heard. I'll be ordering soon, I have all the brake components on hand or on order, steering is 98% done, exhaust tools and material on order, and now working through welding up all the axle tabs that are tacked. I'll have to be ordering a driveshaft soon to avoid it slowing me down (as if I'm not slow enough to begin with lol).

    PXL_20210218_222014137.jpg
     
  4. Feb 19, 2021 at 8:11 PM
    #124
    rockmup

    rockmup New Member

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    Jess @ High Angle or Tom Woods, I've had many from both of them. Don't know anything about JE Reel

    Buggy looks great !
    Sadly I didn't make it to KOH this year.
     
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  5. Mar 11, 2021 at 5:17 PM
    #125
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Monthly update :D Most of this was done about 2 weeks ago, then I had to leave for work for the past week and got back last night and got to play with some new toys to add to the buggy.

    Starting out, I got the full powerstop kit since I was missing most of the brake components, plus they're red :D

    [​IMG]

    With the calipers in hand I took them apart, measured the pistons, did some research, and bought a Wilwood 1.125" master and a 9:1 brake pedal assembly from Busted Knuckle. According to their spreadsheet this should put me in the goldie locks zone for a manual brake setup (stroke vs force).

    There's a few paths I'm going down, but essentially the buggy is broken up between the front end and rear end. To install the brakes, that forces me to finish the axles so I'm not welding on the axles next to the new calipers/rotors. Starting with the rear I just had to weld up the link brackets.

    [​IMG]

    Which one thing leads to another, and the axle has been sitting and moved around so much that it's so nasty I can't effectively clean it to weld the brackets that are tacked on. My dad bought me an Eastwood sand blast cabinet for Christmas that I had yet to put together, so I was now forced to do that. I cut off the brackets with the plasma, sand blasted them and cleaned the axle, then welded everything back up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The upper link tower was clean enough I didn't have to pull it; though in that regard, all the axle parts I'm MIG welding. The axles were all tacked up long before I learned how to TIG so weren't prepped or cleaned well enough to be TIG welded, plus a lot of the components on the axle just aren't conducive to TIG welding. I'd liked to have TIG'd them, but MIG was the better option in my opinion.

    [​IMG]

    Rear axle all together. Parking brake/dust covers removed, new brakes on, old shafts back in (for the moment). She's ready to rock.

    [​IMG]

    Additionally I've started wrapping up the parts associated with the rear axle. I've done most of the interior welding of the Y link and welded the bungs on (first pass) to make sure nothing will move. It still needs to be braced up.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Moving on to the front, before pulling the front axle I did some flex testing (my forklift from 1974 started up which made me happy, despite sitting for like 6 months :D ). With clearances and an idea of where the driveshaft could go I pulled it too.

    [​IMG]

    That catches us up to today. When I got back home I had a bunch of parts waiting, a midship, a midshaft, brake master/pedal, and some exhaust parts. The front is where most of the remaining work is, the driveshaft needs to be figured out so the floor can be figured out so the brake/throttle can be figured out :D easy. To start with, the driveshaft setup I'm doing uses what's referred to as a "midship" which is essentially a super fancy carrier bearing/mini driveshaft. A driveshaft goes in one side, and a driveshaft comes out the other. The two shafts don't directly connect, instead they connect to the midship. The benefit of this is, the angles are essentially reset at the midship. So instead of the driveshaft at the transfercase being angled over to the side, then the one off the axle connecting to that and getting some weird combined angles going on, the midship is parallel and level with the transfer case so the u joints are all phased and happy with small angles, and then the driveshaft off the axle is horizontally aligned and just angles vertically--each driveshaft is operating in just one plane and all the angles are on that same plane. Simple :D

    [​IMG]

    Now the "issue" I had, is the midship is meant for two u joints, and since I'll be running a double cardan I (preferably, at least as far as I can tell) need a flange. So I bought a u joint stub, swapped that into my transfercase, then took the flange adapter from the tcase and machined it down so it would fit in the angular contacts/seals of the midship.

    [​IMG]

    And this is the result:

    [​IMG]

    Then I used a driveshaft kit (both the midship and driveshaft kits are from TMR) to build a mini driveshaft to connect the midship to the atlas.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Since the tcase to midship are parallel with each other, I can run a "basic" mini driveshaft that just has a u joint on either end. The shaft from the axle to the midship however needs the double cardan due to how the axle geometry cycles with the suspension (same thing applies to the rear axle, but it uses just a single driveshaft since it doesn't have to snake through the chassis) so that's why there's u joints on the tcase side of the midship and then a flange output on the axle side. Now that the atlas side driveshaft and midship are in, I can figure out the front driveshaft length and start mocking up the pedals and floor!

    And then to wrap today up, I cut off the front upper link brackets, sand blast, clean axle, and welded on.

    [​IMG]

    The remaining front axle tasks are to finish out the bottom link brackets, gusset the hydro mount, and install brakes. Once that's done I can bolt the front axle up, and make sure the front driveshaft will work with where the midship is tacked up, then I can brace the midship, order driveshafts (I think I've decided to just buy kits from Goat Built and build both myself), and then continue with the interior/pedals. Once that is all done, I have exhaust collectors, flanges, filler, purge plugs, and a bunch of other shit and will fabricate the headers once I know where the front driveshaft is going.

    I'm hoping I can take it to the Ultra4 race in Moab on April 2nd (just to test out, not race), there's about a 3% chance it'll be able to drive by then but we'll see! Besides the driveshaft kits I think I have all the big stuff to get it moving under it's own power soon! If work can just stop bugging me :D
     
  6. Apr 7, 2021 at 7:28 AM
    #126
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    Did you attend BFE?
     
  7. Apr 11, 2021 at 5:26 PM
    #127
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    No sadly. I was traveling the following week and leaving Monday, so didn't feel like adding the extra days being away from home otherwise I would've--though it being the same week as EJS which I try to steer far away also didn't lend it any brownie points, Moab is a cluster enough when there's nothing going on lol
     
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  8. Apr 22, 2021 at 7:17 AM
    #128
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Front axle fabrication is all done.

    PXL_20210416_010240059.jpg

    PXL_20210416_010413121.jpg

    Front brakes mounted up

    PXL_20210422_002217122.jpg

    I ordered driveshaft kits from GoatBuilt and all the brake plumbing from Summit, so conceivably all the parts to make it drive around the neighborhood are ordered. I decided to weigh it and see where it's at.

    PXL_20210422_014018574.jpg

    PXL_20210422_014424612.jpg

    The front is 2000lbs, rear is 1500lbs. Front axle alone is 900lbs and rear axle is 650lbs. The weight limit for Ultra4 for 1.75" tube is 4400lbs so I have ~900lbs left. The heaviest components left are the driveshafts and spare tire, so it's possible I can hit the 4000lb goal I was shooting for. In the future, a fabricated front axle and lightweight brakes alone will shed a few hundred pounds too.

    I'm hoping to start making some good progress, the front axle I was very lazy to work on since I was cutting the casting and the thing seems to be eternally covered in oil. With that out of the way it's now nice clean fabrication and building up the interior.
     
  9. Apr 22, 2021 at 11:41 AM
    #129
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    Those artec trusses are beefy.
     
  10. Apr 22, 2021 at 11:50 AM
    #130
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Yea and weigh a metric assload :rofl: and their hydro skid didn't fit worth two shits, at least it was pretty cheap considering the only thing I kept from it was that big front plate, otherwise all the gussets and bracing I had to completely redo to make the ram remotely fit haha. I'm so glad to be done with the axles, this is the last time I run any OEM based axle I swear, what a pain it was to cut stuff off and modify for an overweight and not particularly strong axle. At least it was cheap I guess :D
     
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  11. Apr 22, 2021 at 2:00 PM
    #131
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    I haven't used much of their stuff. Just the quart crates. Are they a budget builder brand?
     
  12. Apr 22, 2021 at 2:05 PM
    #132
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Depends on what you call budget, there's not many truss options so the only real alternative is custom. I think it was like $900 for both trusses and the hydro skid. So like $250-300 for each thing, and then I have their high steer kit too. I mean it's usual fabrication stuff where nothing fits and needs to be modified to some extent.
     
  13. Apr 22, 2021 at 2:37 PM
    #133
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    Makes sense. I guess it's all like that crate. They give you some stuff and it's on you to get it to fit.
     
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  14. May 3, 2021 at 8:52 AM
    #134
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Starting to plumb brakes. The master cylinder didn't come with the pushrod so made one on the lathe.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Cut some side plates to adapt the brake assembly to the chassis.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The brake pedal sits further forward than I was expecting it would, and it's a 9:1 throw so at full extension it's way out there. Luckily my fender line is kind of deceiving and the tire sits really far forward so there's plenty of room, but the floor board may look a little odd with how far into the "wheel well" it'll sit.

    I'm using stainless braided lines for everything, no hard lines at this time. Busted Knuckle said this is how they run their brakes to keep it simple and less connections, and my Can Am is set up the same way so we'll see how it does. I'm welding studs to the axle for P clips. I'm not sure how long I'll keep this rear configuration for, I'm worried a branch will hook under the lines and yank them. I might move them or create a little shield eventually, and I also don't have my bump stops in yet so that may move them later too.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    While deciding what I wanted to do next, the transmission has been leaking for a few weeks so I pulled the atlas. I'm gonna change a few things I think, having to remove the entire dash to pull the atlas seems like a bad idea. If I add one tube junction next to the drivers seat I can pull it by just removing the driver seat and nothing else which would be nice.

    [​IMG]

    Transmission output seal has somehow been fucked for who knows how long, at least it's an easy and obvious fix. Not sure how that even happens, pretty sure it wasn't me unless installing the atlas somehow caused that which seems unlikely.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Moving to the front, I realized after installing the hydro skid bracing that the chassis now doesn't reach full bump (it was tight before). The solution will be to upgrade to 16s, which will extend the shock body, move full bump down a bit, and then gain more travel all around. I had been thinking of doing this already, 8" of up travel and 8" of down travel sounds a bit nicer at the moment than 10" up and 4" down anyways. There's also some shock changes I need to make that I'll get to.

    With some 2" spacers under the shocks to simulate 16s, I mocked up where front bumps would sit, and essentially they don't sit.

    [​IMG]

    The can doesn't even protrude out the bottom of the chassis with the increased full bump height and removing the striker pad. I could extend the can, but packaging is still tight and the whole bump stop sits above the chassis rail then, which could make pulling the engine a bitch and makes packaging of the winch and other front end components more annoying. On top of that, the bump stop mounting area is not very structural so would need to be braced up to the shock mounts most likely. So with all that in mind, I decided not to run front bump stops. I know Camburg TTs don't run front bump stops, and after some reading it's actually fairly common due to packaging issues like I have. Since I need different shocks anyways, I can set the valving and bypass layout to optimize the bump zone in the bypass and rely solely on that for bump control. There's a lot of advantages to this: more room, the shocks act as bump stops both in valving and with their rubber bottom out pucks so all the bump load goes through the shock mounts which is the strongest area, I swap from 14s to 16s, I swap from a 2.5 to either a 3.0 or 3.5 bypass, I change to a remote mounted reservoir vs a piggyback to gain more shock room, change from a staggered bypass layout to overlapping tubes, makes plumbing easier since no bump pads in the way; the biggest "downside" is tuning the front will take a bit more time, I can't just rely on the bump stop to save me if the suspension is way too soft out the gate, so tuning the front bypasses will be a bit more critical. I don't think this is that big of a deal, since the bypass will just be very stiff with a lot of overlapping tubes to soften it up and running a bigger piston will help too. I'm pretty excited with this revelation, since it takes changes I was already planning and kills two birds with one stone, and doesn't require any actual changes on the chassis side.

    So with all that in mind, and concluding I don't need to figure out where my bump stops and pads go, I was able to run the front brake lines.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And that brings us up to speed. I had to order a longer brake line for the master to the front axle, once I get that the whole brake system will be ready to go. I'm still waiting for my driveshaft kits, so after the brake lines are wrapped up I think I'll start building the exhaust. With how far forward the firewall will be, I'm going to run the exhaust out the back I think, which has benefits but will be a bit more effort. There's now no way to mount the muffler in the wheel well, so as usual packaging is driving what configuration everything is in.
     
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  15. May 17, 2021 at 9:49 AM
    #135
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    It drives!!!



    Things that I've done recently, started the rear bump stops, once these are done I can figure out sway bar routing. The bump stop controls how much flex the vehicle has to some extent, and that range of motion controls where the sway bar goes.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The bump stop will get braced up more, but this is a good starting point and can now mockup the bump pads on the axle.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Little bracket for the radiator overflow can:

    [​IMG]

    Routing stuff in the front. Floor tube is in, it will brace the midship bearing.

    [​IMG]

    Got some driveshaft kits and made some driveshafts. The tubing ID was too small so had to open it up on the lathe, then the slip yoke and CV were a light press fit.

    [​IMG]

    The double cardan is so long that the actual shaft length is significantly shorter than I thought, so I need more angle to pull full travel. Right now I will probably have to strap it around 22-24" of rear travel. I may be able to modify the double cardan to pull a bit more, though after pulling one apart it looks like it's pretty optimized already. I may be able to adjust my pinion angle to help some too. If I can strap at 24" I'd be plenty happy though.

    [​IMG]

    I got exhaust tubing in on Friday and started building the drivers side header, which has the O2 sensor and my janky previous ones no longer fit so it got priority. On Sunday I finished welding it up. Really happy with how it turned out for my first try!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The headers are extremely tight with the upper link, I may actually have to pound on them a bit to clear since they pulled a bit when welding and at most had a 1/4" of clearance to start with. If they hit they just kiss so not a big deal. I spent a lot of time flexing the front out to get as much room as possible. There's a lot going on, front driveshaft, front links, gas and brake pedal, steering lines, engine cradle, etc. but it worked out good, and I was able to pull out a lot more leg room than any off the shelf options which was a goal.

    [​IMG]

    I also built some little shock bump extensions out of delrin that just snap onto the shock shaft. Until I get longer shocks with the correct bypass tube layout, these will be my bump stops.

    [​IMG]

    And finally, after working hard the past few weeks and a lot the past few days--building the exhaust and driveshaft, installing all the suspension and shock bolts and actually torquing them, bleeding and adjusting the brakes, bleeding the full hydro, wiring the engine harness back up, etc. etc. I was able to fire it up and take it around the block! The brakes barely worked, the throttle was a piece of wire going to my hand, I had to reach down to shift the transmission, it had no springs on the coilovers--but it ran and it drove and nothing broke or burned down! I started this project almost 3 years ago, and this was the first time it has ever moved under its own power! It's a big relief, from here on out everything feels like little modifications and tweaks which I can immediately go out and test and I now have a baseline of "it runs and drives". Prior to this, everything was just assumptions and hopes that the whole package would work. Modifying a vehicle is a lot easier than a complete blank slate that's unknown, and it feels like I've built a vehicle and can now just modify it!

    [​IMG]

    I'm shooting to take it to the Rubicon in June when a friend of mine is hosting an event, so have a list of things to buy and dial in. Once I get my springs, and mount the shifter and a gas pedal and bleed the brakes though, that will make it truly drivable and I can start tuning the engine and getting some miles on it.
     
  16. May 17, 2021 at 9:51 AM
    #136
    ColoradoTJ

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    Seen the video...sounds rather healthy.
     
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  17. May 17, 2021 at 9:58 AM
    #137
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    You do really good fab work Toby. Very impressed. Hopefully you get to race that bad boy this next season.
     
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  18. May 17, 2021 at 10:18 AM
    #138
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    Let's go baby! It's Hammertime!

    Nice job. Dreams right there.
     
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  19. May 17, 2021 at 10:40 AM
    #139
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Thank you sir! I've certainly come a very long way since I first started this project, it's kind of cool since I can see my evolution of a fabricator throughout the build, where parts of the chassis are so-so MIG, then nicer MIG, then so-so TIG, then nice TIG, and same with fitment and dimensions and planning. The next big build will be cool since the minimum skill will be where I'm at my peak on this build, but the story and experience you can see in this chassis makes it pretty unique as I really tried to push myself.

    My first serious rig, the FJ80 I raced, I started it in May of 2017 as I recall to race the 2018 KOH. Considering I'm at similar points and time with a running vehicle before the 2022 KOH, I think there's a good chance, fingers crossed :D

    Thanks man! I've had enough dreaming about it lately, I was hoping last night would be a good sleep finally now that it runs but then I just thought about what all I need to get it to the dirt and testing :D
     
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  20. May 17, 2021 at 11:13 AM
    #140
    Bikeric

    Bikeric New Member

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    Just read thru this for the first time. SWEET!! Are you going to have to remove everything and paint the raw steel tubes?
     
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  21. May 17, 2021 at 11:25 AM
    #141
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Yes sir that's the plan. I'll get the chassis and axles and anything else sand blasted and then paint it, though that wont be until it's pretty wrapped up and done. Plus living in the desert, and getting it sand blasted first, gives me a bit of leeway with acceptable levels of surface rust. I had debated powdercoating it, but I think I'll just do spray primer and paint, then it'll be easy to touch up and less effort to sand off when I need to weld on it.
     
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  22. May 17, 2021 at 11:35 AM
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    ColoradoTJ

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch
    Soooo, taking a trip to Colorado anytime soon?

    I think the Ram just took a shit on the bender.

    FML.

    image.jpg

    Kinda need this due to no roll cage or back half.

    image.jpg
     
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  23. May 17, 2021 at 11:40 AM
    #143
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Funny you say that, my ram shit itself a few weeks ago, and after trying to revive it I said screw this and bought a new one. And also funny since I'm flying to Colorado tomorrow, as has been my weekly work trip all year :D

    How about you kill a few birds with one stone: drive here, help Dawn and Ryan move, we'll go ham and tag team your cage in a day, then go wheeling :D
     
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  24. May 17, 2021 at 11:46 AM
    #144
    ColoradoTJ

    ColoradoTJ Certified tow LEO Staff Member

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    Calibrated Power 5 Tune pack, Allison 1000 tune, PPE deep trans pan, Cold/Hot CAC pipes, Banks CAI, PCV reroute, resonator delete, S&B 62 gal fuel tank, B&W GN hitch
    I’ve offered. Told them I can bring the 24’ or 28’.
     
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  25. May 17, 2021 at 11:58 AM
    #145
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    Transfer Flow tank, Pinstripe Suit
    desert ghetto it with Steel-It?
     
  26. May 17, 2021 at 12:02 PM
    #146
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Ehhhhh I'm not quite sold on Steel-It, the only people running it for the best I can tell got sponsored with a bunch of it. Maybe you can "weld through it", ie it'll start an arc but I don't care what it is, it should get cleaned off to weld. So if you eliminate that as a feature, it's just over priced silver spray paint :D
     
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  27. May 17, 2021 at 12:03 PM
    #147
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

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    Transfer Flow tank, Pinstripe Suit
    You don't want to weld through it. Smokes up the shop like Snoop relaxing on a Sunday afternoon.
     
  28. May 17, 2021 at 12:05 PM
    #148
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Perfect, so to answer you question, I'll stick with Krylon or whatever hahaha
     
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  29. May 21, 2021 at 10:08 AM
    #149
    snivilous

    snivilous [OP] snivspeedshop.com

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    Test drive two update. Wrenched a bit yesterday and did another test drive. It seemed like last week I was still having some overheating issues, so I pulled the thermostat and removed the jiggle valve entirely so there's now the jiggle valve hole and two .100" bleed holes in it and that seemed to fix it overheating, though hard to say since I didn't have it running very long but it seemed to top out around 200deg and that's with the single radiator fan which will get doubled eventually. I also bled the brakes a bunch, which helped but still have aways to go it seems like. I'm also suspicious that the rotors aren't fully seated on the hubs and are wobbling causing the calipers to open up when pressure is off of them. The brake pedal location is absolute ass, since it's a top swing pedal it rotates up and how I have it setup you have to totally angle your foot forward so your toes are pushing the pedal--it's super awkward, and the master cylinder angle makes filling it with fluid difficult so I think I'll cut it off, reposition the master so it's parallel with the ground, and then make my own brake pedal that does some weird Z jog to get into the right position. Being full manual brakes the pedal has about 10" of travel too, which makes things difficult to package. You need a lot of throw to get the mechanical advantage, but then the first half of the pedal motion doesn't really do anything so it's difficult to put it in a comfortable spot to keep your foot off and comfortable to have it fully depressed.

    The final things I wanted to play with was data logging this run, and getting the transmission shifter vaguely setup so I didn't have to reach down and move the shift linkage by hand. Well after lots of fucking with things and confusion, I've concluded my clutch packs are seized together. Every gear is a forward gear, including reverse. I thought the shifter was hooked up wrong, but even after removing it there was no finding reverse and everything besides park was a forward gear. The fluid smelled pretty weird the other day, and after some research if you run the trans low on fluid and it slips at all essentially your clutches are screwed. I had a LOT of slippage on the first drive, and this time I was going to check the fluid level and have the shifter hooked up to avoid that, but apparently with the 4l80e (or at least this old bitch) running it low just destroyed it. I've had a handful of Toyotas that were run low on atf for one reason or another, and all of them ended up being fine. The 4l80e? One trip around the block and reverse is now a drive gear :D

    After concluding reverse was totally gone, we pushed it out of the shop backwards and still went for a drive around the block with the data logging on. I had refined my TIG wire throttle cable a bit so got on the gas a little just to get some data. With a couple second throttle blip at 70% I made about 8psi of boost, which was the first time I've really had it make any boost since it had load on it. The engine needs a lot of tuning, it didn't pull anywhere near as much as I thought but there's lots of issues from the torque converter to the trans to tuning and probably has 3.73 gears pushing 40s, and I wasn't at WOT or revved out for very long since I didn't want to get going too fast since I have no suspension still. I'm thinking of loading the stock Holley tune back on, and tune from that as the baseline and add power into it; right now I'm running on a modified twin turbo Holley tune I found, so I think tuning might be easier starting from a stock-ish baseline and building on it versus starting on the crazy end and trying to tweak it. Additionally, I'm seeing massive amounts of blowby. I'm slightly worried about it, but I think there's a few explanations. One, the ring gap I made very large to accommodate the heat from the supercharger. Two, it's boosted. And three I wouldn't be surprised if the oil is on the high side which can cause increased oil evacuation. Add all that to the fact the engine only has a few hours (of no load) run time, so the rings aren't seated yet and I'm not super worried. The valve covers are just venting to atmosphere right now, so you can see vapors being blown off constantly and ESPECIALLY after my boosted pull. Considering the engine seems to be running totally fine, and the spark plugs all look pretty happy I think I'll just keep running it and with a catch can mounted up it'll be fine. I'll check compression later, but so far no indications anything is actually wrong.

    I also got a little janky air intake thrown on for the time being, and finished welding the collector on the drivers side header so I was getting accurate AFR readings. I have some 3" tubing that showed up, and some V bands and exhaust hangars arriving today so I can finish out the drivers side exhaust, and then this weekend will start on the passenger header. I also have a bunch of intercooler components showing up, and after some research will be doing a pretty cool and unique setup where I'm welding a sleeve around my hydro reservoir and will be pumping coolant from the supercharger into that to keep my steering cool, so I have some lines and a tank and pump to start routing and figuring out the intercooler/hydro/radiator setup to keep the supercharger and steering cool.

    In regards to the transmission being fucked, I have a few options. The first is to get a rebuild kit, which from Jakes Performance is $1000. The second is to just buy the stage 2 (or 3) transmission from them that's built to 750 (or 1000) horsepower which costs $3700-$4700. I'm planning to do the latter, after the amount of effort to do the shift kit in this transmission, it'll be cheaper and easier after you factor in time to just buy the built trans instead of spending days or weeks fixing my current one. So tentatively in the next few weeks I'll pull the trigger on that; however I was hoping to do the Rubicon in 4 weeks, so if I can find a cheap stock transmission for like $300 I'll just get that and swap it in for the time being for that trip, and if I can't get a stock one then I'll just take the Can-Am on that trip. Kind of a bummer about the transmission, but I knew it'd be the first thing to go and was hoping it'd last a bit longer than me running it low on fluid. If I get the Jakes Performance one they also build custom torque converters so will get one of those, and then I'll have a vary stout drivetrain all the way through.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  30. May 21, 2021 at 12:05 PM
    #150
    rockmup

    rockmup New Member

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    Greenwell Springs LA.
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    Kings, 5:29's, E-lockers on 37's
    We all get to that place, lol
     
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