About to start sound proofing but....

Why not just go right over the vapor barrier? Why does everyone remove it?

 

It’s only effective when it’s attached to metal or any other solid surface. Plus, the plastic is a huge source of unwanted resonance and rattles.

 

Dan to the rescue again !

Would you recommend doing this or fully covering?

 

I wouldn’t leave the plastic. It will still resonate tremendously with every bass hit and really negate any of the work you did to minimize vibrations. I made a cover out of pieces of chicken cage wire and deadened it. Then used self tapping screws to cover the whole. That way I’m closing the door up like you want but still have an accessible panel you can pull to get into the door if you have too.

 

Removing plastic and covering the access holes are the best options if you are after better sound quality, and there s a lot of ways to cover the holes. You can go here and see what others have done.

 

I'm no audio expert... but I've replaced every single speaker, added a 10 inch sub and amp and don't have any issues when I covered the plastic on my doors. Zero "plastic" rattling noise. I did take my time with the sound deadening and making sure everything really stuck

 

thanks for the input..

 

I just did all my doors and back wall in Crewmax.

On the front removing the factory barrier and just going over it with dynamat is no problem. Everything fits.

On the back doors there is a large foam bulge built into the plastic door panel that intrudes into the door cavity. If you cover the large hole with dynamat the door panel will not fit! I created a cavity into the dynamat to accommodate that bulge, but then there's the risk of having the dynamat touch the window itself.

On one door I ended up uncovering the hole and put a piece of heavy duty trash bag over it, adhered it with 3M VHB tape to mimic the factory approach. This allows the foam door bulge to push into the door cavity while eliminating the chance of any dynamat interference with the window.

My upgrade thread with pics of the back door bulge issue:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/brakedusts-kenwood-dmx1057xr-tech12volts-audio-overhaul.87362/

If you watch the "Five Star Audio" videos, they do not remove the factory vapor barrier and only apply a modest amount of dynamat. They cover the area behind the speaker and also in the panel where the speaker is mounted. If I were to do it all over again I'd go with that approach. I'd rather have working windows - besides, I drive around with the windows down when possible and audio quality literally goes "out the window" in that case