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2016 Tundra CM Spark Plug Replacement - 5.7L V8

Discussion in 'Performance and Tuning' started by Trk5100, Nov 18, 2019.

  1. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:11 PM
    #1
    Trk5100

    Trk5100 [OP] New Member

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    Upgraded from 2015 Tacoma TRD Pro in January 2019
    Hey there, Tundra Fam! I did a couple quick searches for Spark-Plug replacements for 3rd Gen Tundra's and didn't find anything. I figured I would share a few tips and photo's from tonights experience for anyone that wants to look over the process prior to poppin' the hood!

    Aside from the 8 Bosch Iridium plugs I bought from Amazon, I had the required tools on hand..
    Gather the following:
    • 3/8" Ratchet
    • 6" Extension
    • (2) 3" Extensions
    • 10mm socket
    • 3/8" swivel
    • Spark Plug Socket
    Once you've got your gear, pop your hood and add some odd-colored light!


    First - Remove the plastic "5.7L V8" cover. It should just lift straight up with minimal force.
    1F0C2E80-ED62-4093-AA2C-18C40435C8E6.jpg

    Disconnect your positive battery terminal as well... (10mm)
    843313EE-1990-44C4-8F44-FFF7A49EC6B3.jpg


    If we start with the passenger side, you're going to want to remove the air intake completely in order to make some room to work. This involves a couple of hoses, an electrical connector, and the short use of your trusty 10mm socket to loosen a clamp.
    D68BC2F7-172E-4C03-A06B-8FD9C8658A76.jpg

    First, loosen this clamp with your 10mm socket so you can disconnect the air intake.2A03DDC4-DA7F-493E-814D-16EE127A334F.jpg

    Next, remove both of these two rubber hoses...
    DAEDBAF4-535A-4CCE-A2CF-77B3E95CC062.jpg

    Finally, disconnect this electrical connector in order to remove your intake manifold and set aside...
    E2292682-160F-4231-B95A-F3ADC30474C1.jpg

    Next, you're going to use your 10mm socket and some varying combination of your extensions and swivels in order to remove the coil packs. (Photo's are an example of one of the coil packs, located on the drivers side.)
    E07DF5A3-F78F-4050-B627-9C157197C2EA.jpg 301F50EB-50F1-4EDD-9861-93A7F1A977B0.jpg C08164EE-842B-46CC-BF43-9F01FBCB39A9.jpg F0C1FF63-328B-42E8-9C56-C69985A24CE7.jpg
    At this point you can insert your Spark Plug socket and 6" worth of extension in and remove the existing plug. Replace each plug as you go, tighten, and re-assemble coil pack.

    **On the plugs on the drivers side of the engine, I used two 3" extensions, inserting the first extension and the plug socket half-way, and then attaching the second 3" extension in order to avoid removing various other engine compartment components. Just my suggestion - do what works well for you!**

    0E1F0C03-1A8D-415B-90E9-EB0B08876A15.jpg
    Continue to replace each plug and re-assemble anything you removed in the process. There really weren't any plugs that were significantly more difficult to remove than others.

    ...& now you should be done!



    **I am a long-time user of various forums like this, but this is my first post anywhere with any sort of contribution. Please feel free to leave comments, tips, or suggestions on how to complete this task easier, or how to improve this post! My attempt was to keep this as simple, yet visually informative as possible! - - Take Care all!**
     
  2. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:16 PM
    #2
    Blueknights75

    Blueknights75 040 IS THE FASTEST

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    Great write up! Out of curiosity how many miles are on your truck and how did the plugs look?
     
    Trk5100[OP] likes this.
  3. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:21 PM
    #3
    Trk5100

    Trk5100 [OP] New Member

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    Tate
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    2016 Super White 4x4 SR5 CrewMax Tundra
    Upgraded from 2015 Tacoma TRD Pro in January 2019
    Thanks @Blueknights75
    Truck has 82000 miles on it. Here's a photo of two of the plugs..
    C8976A94-1DBE-4D02-9840-F8BF6F33FF87.jpg
     
    Blueknights75 likes this.
  4. Nov 18, 2019 at 8:32 PM
    #4
    dittothat

    dittothat New Member

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    Nice write up. Gearwrench magnetic swivel spark plug socket might make this job a little easier
     
    Cesartt and TheBeast like this.
  5. Nov 18, 2019 at 9:01 PM
    #5
    TheBeast

    TheBeast The Beach

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    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
  6. Nov 19, 2019 at 12:54 PM
    #6
    TX210Tundra

    TX210Tundra New Member

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    2008 - SOS 2/4 Lowering Kit : Firestone Bags : Bilstein Sports at 4 corners : TRD Pro Grill : TRD Pro 18in BBS Forged : Grip Pro LSD : Mike's "ByeNanny" : ARH LT 1 3/4 : ARH Cats : 3" X-Pipe: 3" Dual Borla XR1's / 3" Vibrant Resonators: 3" Tail pipes: DIY SABM: TRD Intake : AFE T/B Spacer : TRD Accelerator : LED Interior/Exterior : Atoto Pro HU : Cerwin Vega 10in Slim : AVS Visors : Sequoia Leather Seats : TRD shift Knob - OVTuned "Spicy 91 Torque Tune" 2022 Limited Crewmax Sonic Red Hybrid - TRD Filters : EGR Window Visors : Cheer Dring Android Adapter : RC Bed Cover : RC 1.75 Level Kit : Undercover Swing Case
    I'll be doing these this weekend. I went with NGK's new Ruthenium HX plugs which are suppose to be a better choice over Iridium. I shall see...

    I also sit at 82k miles
     
  7. Dec 2, 2019 at 4:26 AM
    #7
    Stig

    Stig New Member

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    OP probably gets 1-2 more mpg now!
     
    Trk5100[OP] likes this.
  8. Dec 17, 2019 at 3:41 AM
    #8
    TNTundra7

    TNTundra7 New Member

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    Bilstein 5100s, TRD RSB, TRD Wheels
    @Trk5100 You are a gentleman and a scholar. Great write up. Considering replacing mine.
     
  9. Dec 22, 2019 at 10:04 PM
    #9
    rt_tundra_co

    rt_tundra_co I'll get tired of tweaking this truck...never

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    Esteemed gentlemen of the sparks, I'm putting this plan together for my '15 5.7l as well and want to know recommendations for best plugs to use for this job. Note that I do not mind spending extra on increased quality or performance. I have 8 x Bosch 9613 Double Iridium plugs in my cart currently.

    Should I consider an improved coil while I'm at it or no sense?

    Thanks!
     
  10. Apr 18, 2021 at 7:10 AM
    #10
    charclif

    charclif New Member

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    HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM. "Disconnect your positive battery terminal as well... (10mm)"

    Conventional Flow vs Electron Flow
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gQEuliFx_Pc
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Posj4WMo0o&t=127s
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QV6zFhc4c00

    You never disconnect the POSITIVE (+ RED) side of a car battery first.
    If you only disconnect the positive side only it is not safe to work on. power is still on
    Always disconnect the NEGATIVE (- BLACK) side first and re-connect it last.
    Once the Negative side is disconnected it is safe to work on. Even with the positive side still connected.
    No need to disconnect the positive side unless you are removing the battery.
    Direct Current (D/C power) Electrons flow from negative to positive.
    The CURRENT is coming out of the NEGATIVE post and returns to the battery into the POSITIVE post to complete the Circuit (Circle)
    Why you ask. If you disconnect the positive side first and your wrench touches any metal part (AKA GROUND) as you turn the wrench it will put 700 AMPS into the form of a arch (spark).
    That is why you have a rubber/plastic boot on the positive side and not the negative side.
     
    Mdjamesd and matictundra like this.
  11. Apr 18, 2021 at 7:49 AM
    #11
    Roborob70

    Roborob70 New Member

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    Thank you, you beat me too it.
     
    Mdjamesd and charclif[QUOTED] like this.

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