Gauge lights

Hey Guys, first post and I reviewed the forum before asking, but couldn't find the answer I was looking for.
So, I have an 01 Tundra SR5 4WD and I went to upgrade my gauge lights to LEDs. I think I made a HUGE error in removing all the gauge lights at once because now, NONE of them work. I've checked ALL fuses and relays and replaced the LED with the original halogen bulbs and still no backlights. Thee gauge instruments work, just not the backlights. I have been told that all of the lights work on the same circuit, much like a Christmas tree light string. If one of the lights is installed incorrectly, none of them will work. Does anyone have any clue as to how to fix this without going to a dealership?

 

Your Light Dial Brightness turned up all the way?

 

Basics:
- Do the lights in the center (radio, a/c) panel work? Did you mess with them?
- Does the light in the ashtray work (not a perfect test because they're often burnt out?
- Lights switch on?
- Dimmer on bright?
- Comfirm a firm connection to the instrument wiring.

The lights are not like Christmas tree lights in that they are not dependent on all lights working.

LEDs need to be inserted correctly, if they don't work turn them 180 degrees and they should work.

 

Yes, the dimmer is set to the brightest level. All other lights, radio, A/C, even gear indicator lights work. I have installed the LEDs in every possible way, but even the old halogen bulbs won't work. Is there another fuse possibly somewhere in the gauge cluster itself I am not aware of that controls that circuit?

 

Not to assume wrongly given you're now adding gear lights work, which is important to know, have you checked the function of any of the other lights....emergency brake, door open light, OD....in other words, there are 4 plugins on my DC, don't know about 2001.....check the bulbs on the left side of cluster, the ones in middle and right side by doing there function realizing there are a few you can't. I would double check the plugins given they each one feed segments of the cluster. Also, I 2nd what @jimf909 added, incadescent lights on the cluster do not act like Christmas tree

 

Yes, every thing but the four gauge instrument backlights work. It is the damnedest thing. The bulbs work, both new LED and original halogen, as I have tested them in the A/C Control backlight sockets. I have tested the connection of each plug (several times). It is as if a fuse or relay has blown, but only to those four lights.

 

Oy. It's been awhile since I've had the instrument cluster out but it seems like it's time to start diagnosing with a test light or volt meter. Is there power at the light sockets? What's the path of power to those light sockets and where in the circuit does it stop showing 12 volts?

Again, not looking at a cluster in front of me, I'm suspicious if there's a break in the printed circuit to those lights? That's a wild guess.

Also, I'd inspect the plug to ensure the contacts look okay and the plug is firmly seated but they seem to be pretty foolproof (not saying you're a fool! ).

 

Speaking of my 2004 only, I have 2 fuses that control those lights located in the driver side kick panel.....7.5 amp fuse that controls those 4 back plane lights you speak of and 15Amp fuse that controls most of the if not all of the other lights. My suggestion is to double check those fuses at kick panel and if no luck, might have to be meter checking like Jim suggested.

 

Normal Cluster




7.5 amp fuse removed....lost all 4 backlight



Junction Block from 2001 FSM

 

I don't have the "panel" fuse, they're controlled by the "tail" fuse, which is good. I'm gonna take a test light to the panel and see if I'm getting power to the panel itself. If not, I don't know what I'm going to do. Thanks for the help, Guys.

 

It sure looks like fuse#25 is the circuit for the instrument panel lights and taillights so if those other lights are working then the speedo/tach light sockets should be hot.

And if the instruments are working then fuse #22 should be fine.

It sounds like you may have a puzzle on your hands that could be caused by a cold solder, disconnected wire, damaged PCB, etc.

Given that the lights worked before you got in there, the #1 suspect is something got disrupted when you were in there.

I guarantee that you'll be happy when this is solved.

 

I'll be ecstatic and relieved!