Other things to replace while in there....front suspension

I will soon be doing away with my 4.5 inch garbage spacer lift. Wondering if anyone would like to add to the giant dent I just put in the wallet.

I will be replacing my front spindles, upper control arms and coilovers. Just need reccos on stuff to make new again while it's apart and easier.

Lower control arm bushings have been done. New bearings will be in spindles.

Sway bar bushings?
Dust covers for hub/spindles (I read that somewhere I think) tend to get dinged up?

 

Ball joints
Dust covers as you stated
Brakes? Lines? Otherwise pads and rotors are in good shape?


Get some viz torque for the lower ball joint bolts that go into the spindle or wherever you want to eyeball they are still tight. I used it on my caliper bolts for giggles.

 

Ball joints and tie rods? Sounds like you have the rest covered. Those dust covers may not be real necessary but can't hurt. I only replaced one of mine because someone had punched a big hole in it. There are seals on the back of the hub, where it connects to the CV axle. I'd replace those.

 

My brake lines seem fine, I'm sure they are a factory but if extended brake lines are either needed or a great idea while it's all apart... Brakes are fine they have been replaced so have rotors.
When do longer tie rods need to be installed? Long travel?

 

Only need longer tie rods when you extend the control arm width like going to long travel.

Yeah @FirstGenVol is right on looking at the tie rod ends. They aren't too hard and while it's apart it's maybe a hair easier.

 

There's an argument somewhere on this site that the braided steel flexible brake lines help braking performance over the OEM rubber ones. You could do those if you want.

 

The dust covers on the lowers help keep raid debris from piercing the boots. The ball joint being exposed the way it is means that it could hapopen

 

I totally thought dust covers as in the rubber ones on the ball joints... for the brake rotors don’t worry about them. Unless you need new wheel bearings

which you are doing. So it’s best to just get new ones installed

 

If they are doing LBJs, new OEM come with the protectors for the DCs. I kinda learned that the hard way.

 

I forget that. My oems did too. I’m use to the tacomas. They don’t lol

 

Lower BJs have been done in the last few years...I should really wrote all of this down. I'll double check that stuff for play before parts all show.

You're saying the metal shield between rotor and spindle right? I've read they can get a little mangled sometimes when coming off

 

I’ve never had an issue with mangling them. If they’re not rotted out, use the old ones

 

I’d regrease and re boot the CV Shafts. About $54 each from Toyota. Upper lower ball joints, about $350 from Toyota. New inner outer TRE and R&P Boots. I should of done diff seals, but they were in good condition. Sway bar links are easy to replace, and Toyota wants way to much for them. I went with AC Delco and they are well made and look better than the other aftermarket options. I’m not sure how long the wheel bearing last, but I’m at 270k and they seem to be fine.

Brake stuff can be done later if needed. Typically I don’t replace things till they actually fail, minus timing belt.

 

Would this be the seal on the back of the hub? You are referring to? Or would it be on the new spindles? If it is a bearing seal I'm hoping they are already in and new because spindles have new bearings already pressing in..these diagrams suck to read.
They should be here sometime today according to fed ex.

 

That should be it. Here is the picture I posted in another thread.