1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

JBA headers quality concerns/pre-installation questions

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by yota_man, Apr 8, 2021.

  1. Apr 8, 2021 at 8:05 PM
    #1
    yota_man

    yota_man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2021
    Member:
    #57747
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    Idaho
    Vehicle:
    2004 Tundra AC TRD 4wd Limited
    Stock (for now)
    Hello guys,
    I've researched this a ton on this and other forums but I thought I'd get one last opinion before I install.
    I've purchased a set of JBA long tubes for my 2004 tundra. My driver's side manifold is leaking so I thought of it as an opportunity for upgrade. I had decided to buy the silver ceramic ones but I got lucky and the seller couldn't find his last set, so he called me and upgraded me free to the titanium ceramic. They look sweet!
    Now I'm not asking about the basic installation process, as I like to consider myself a somewhat able backyard mechanic and already have a good idea on how to get them installed. I also will be buying some quality multi layered steel gaskets.
    My question is in regards to some past forums questioning the quality of the headers. I know they are not top notch quality, but they are the best we've got.
    Now, I can see the tubes are welded to the flange plate from the inside and not on the outside of the flange plate. There is a gap around the tubes and the flange plate on the outside, which makes me think that could be a spot to rust or leak. I've read this happening at least once on another forum.
    Should I fill in that gap before I install them? Or do you think I'll be fine, and that one instance was just by chance?
    Also, I do not have the air injector tubes on my headers or stock manifolds. There are weld spots blocking the air injection tubes on the inside of the JBA headers. Do those need to be ground down so they won't be a potential high spot and create a leak? There is no apparent hole on the outside of the flange indicating that the welds were to fill in a hole, so maybe they were made intentionally to block off someone on the cylinder head side? I'm a graduate student working full time so I don't have a lot of extra time to pull these back off again and reinstall if there was a leak, hence why I came to the experts for any last minute tips.
    Any other advice or tricks would be appreciated.
    Thanks again, I enjoy being a part of this community
     
    MS22, Voss, Hooptytrix and 1 other person like this.
  2. Apr 8, 2021 at 8:21 PM
    #2
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Tesla kool-aid connoisseur

    Joined:
    Dec 24, 2019
    Member:
    #40251
    Messages:
    9,251
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zach
    WA
    Vehicle:
    2017 SR5 TRD CM 2004 TRD Snow Goat
    @FrenchToasty
    Was it you plug welding up your headers recently?
     
  3. Apr 8, 2021 at 8:27 PM
    #3
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2019
    Member:
    #36156
    Messages:
    15,556
    First Name:
    Mo
    The SoAz
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC 4.88s Elocker and some other trippy stuff
    None
    Yes, I had to enlarge the air injection block off nubs on the header flange. So far so good after 40-50 miles
     
  4. Apr 8, 2021 at 8:31 PM
    #4
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2019
    Member:
    #36156
    Messages:
    15,556
    First Name:
    Mo
    The SoAz
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC 4.88s Elocker and some other trippy stuff
    None
    I wouldn’t worry about the back sides getting filled in, and if you don’t have AIP system, I still wouldn’t touch those block weld pools. Get Remflex gaskets or something of the like, and you should seal up the head just fine
     
  5. Apr 9, 2021 at 6:03 AM
    #5
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

    Joined:
    Jan 1, 2020
    Member:
    #40572
    Messages:
    9,112
    Gender:
    Male
    Arkansas
    Vehicle:
    2000 Limited TRD AC 4X4 Thunder Grey 270k miles. 2019 Limited TRD CM 4x4 Cement Grey 75k miles
    2000: Bilstein 5100's 16x8 589's with 265/75/16 and 1.25" spacers Flowmaster 50 series over the axle dump Pioneer touchscreen with backup camera Full interior and dash LED conversion Trailer brake controller with 7 pin Bedliner coat bumpers & trim ARE topper 2019: ARE topper with full Bedrug kit and Vortex rack TRD shifter 1.25" wheel spacers (I like to live dangerously) Red tow hooks for that +15 grip bonus
    I wouldn't be welding on those mounting flanges. For one they appear coated, all of that would have to come off to weld, good luck getting in that crevice. Secondly, unless done with skill and caution, you could end up warping the flange from the heat and cause bigger issues. Headers 'gon rust. That's what they do. It's just surface rust when they do usually. Those look thoroughly coated. Should be fine.
     
    Wes_heppy, NWPirate and Darkness like this.
  6. Apr 9, 2021 at 8:21 AM
    #6
    Wes_heppy

    Wes_heppy Trucks...Dirtbikes... Guns...

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2020
    Member:
    #56456
    Messages:
    158
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Weston
    Vehicle:
    2003 tundra 4x4 4.7
    TC UCA Radflo coilovers Long Tubes LSD
    I have those same headers and bolted them on just how they came. It’s been a few thousand miles with no issues. Do you plan to extend the o2 sensors or did you buy the extensions? Also note you do not have to remove a motor mount.
     
  7. Apr 9, 2021 at 11:53 AM
    #7
    yota_man

    yota_man [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2021
    Member:
    #57747
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    Idaho
    Vehicle:
    2004 Tundra AC TRD 4wd Limited
    Stock (for now)
    I am planning on getting some stock connectors off of the main harness and o2 sensor from the salvage yard to make my own custom extensions that are plug and play. I figured it would be better than cutting my 02 sensor harness up.
    Thanks for the tip on the motor mount. Part of my vision was to loosen them and jack up that side of the engine to get a better angle at those two middle bolts, but I'll try without doing that first. A1auto has a good video replacing stock manifolds without taking off the motor mount so it obviously can be done. I'm also a little weary about loosening any bolts that don't need to be. I know every project is one broken bolt away from becoming a 3-4 day project, so if I don't need to loosen motor mounts, I'll try not to.

    They are "titanium ceramic" coated, which I had hoped would prevent rust as long as possible. It's not a super heavy coating, as I easily scratched it with my knife getting the bubble wrap off of them, so it could be easily removed. But they do look good. I did think about warping the flange, but it is 1/2" thick so I figured going slow and allowing the metal to cool would prevent that. I'm not a professional welder, so I do probably lack the necessary skill and technique to do it, but I know I can tackle the rest of the exhaust! I'll leave them as they are.

    10-4. I was thinking of some felpro MLS gaskets or Mahle, but Remflex gets mentioned a lot in these forums. I'll see if I can find some. I have two weeks until I get a break for a few days so there's still time to order stuff.

    Thanks again guys. I'll be sure to post pictures once its done.
     
    Wes_heppy[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Apr 9, 2021 at 12:48 PM
    #8
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2019
    Member:
    #36156
    Messages:
    15,556
    First Name:
    Mo
    The SoAz
    Vehicle:
    2006 DC 4.88s Elocker and some other trippy stuff
    None
    Remflex makes one that says it’s for 1 3/4 port that’s the one you want; they don’t list one specific for JBA long tubes but I know for a fact it fits perfectly
     
    yota_man[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  9. Apr 9, 2021 at 1:06 PM
    #9
    Darkness

    Darkness Allergic to white

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2018
    Member:
    #17315
    Messages:
    9,976
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Luis
    All over SoCal
    Vehicle:
    The darkest
    It's really dark
    I don't think there is a benefit to welding the back side.
     
    FrenchToasty likes this.

Products Discussed in

To Top