Power Window Fuse

I was working on installing the Auto Loc power windows modules, and while testing the voltage of each wire I heard a tick sound. Afterwards the switch (on the front passenger side only) stopped working. All other switches, including the front passenger found on the drivers side still work.

It seems quite obvious I blew a fuse, but I am wondering which one and where it is. The one in driver side footwell is one fuse for all power windows, so I don’t think it’s that one cus all windows still work. Is there a fuse for just the singular switch on the passenger front side? If so where is it?

Thanks in advance!

 

You could hit the wiring diagrams linked in my signature and do some digging into the power window circuit. From my recollection, there’s only one fuse for the door windows. Perhaps you cooked the switch itself?

 

Maybe see if one of the rear door switches will fit that front door connector and see if it works.
Then you'd know if the switch is fried..
Although it may be a different connector.

My 2014 the front pass door has separate plugs for the windows and the door locks..

 

Do you have auto-up windows or not?
The RH front window gets it's power from this fuse (20A "Door R/R) through the non-auto-up passenger switch. If it is being triggered by the main (driver's) switch, then it looks like it is getting power from the 30A "Power" fuse.


The 30A "Power" fuse powers the rear cab power window switch/relay coil, the rear passenger door window switch, and sends power to the master control switch (which appears to be for powering any window triggered by that switch).
The 20A "Door R/L" fuse powers the rear drivers door window switch.
And there is another 20A "Door" fuse that powers the front drivers door window switch specific to the front window motor.


So...following that logic, I would check the Door R/R fuse and see if it is popped.

 

I just went outside and checked it out.

You can use the rear door switch in the front door and see if your front switch is bad.
They have the same plug and the rear worked in the front..



If your switch is bad, I THINK this is the part number, but please verify.

84810-06030

2006-2020 Toyota Window Switch 84810-06030 | Sparks Parts

You can find them for $20 on eBay.

Front Window Switch, Right - 84810-06030 (Genuine) - Toyota Tundra/Yaris, 07- | eBay

 

I have this exact same problem where the passenger side window won’t work when controlled from passenger side but does work from the drivers side. I’ve checked all the fuses I can find and don’t see any issues and I tried replacing both the passenger side as well as the drivers side switches and that didn’t make an impact.

Anyone out there with a suggestions?

 

Alright, I got a fuse checker and although no fuses were blown I did find that no power was reaching 2 of my fuses which I assume is the root of my issues with the window.

Those fuses are the 10A “Tail” and the 5A “Panel” as listed on the fuse box cover by the parking brake.

Does anyone have any clue why they couldn’t be receiving any power at all? The smartest electrical guy on here that I’ve seen is @RainMan_PNW or is there anyone else who could help on this one?

 

I’m not where I can pull up the diagrams right now. You’d have to chase those fuses back to where they source in the main power box under the hood and be sure nothing’s popped in there.

And I assume you’re checking with the ignition on? Tail may not get power without headlights on (would need to check the EWD). And if Panel is backlight illumination, it may also only get power off headlights are on.

 

I did the check with both the power on as well as off. I didn’t think to activate the lights to see what difference that makes so I’ll give that a try and then report back. More to follow and thanks for the suggestion!

 

The AutoLoc system is junk. That's why I got rid of mine. You also lose the window lock function with it.

 

Did anyone ever figure this out? I’m having the exact same problem. Passenger window works from the driver switch but not from the passenger switch. Not sure it it’s a fuse or the switch itself that popped.

 

It was a blown fuse. I brought it to the dealer since it was still under warranty and they replaced it and it worked

 

Thanks! Was hoping to replace it myself but I guess I’ll try the dealer if I can’t find the fuse location. I’m still under warranty as well.

Did you end up ditching the autoloc?

 

Where the hell is the passenger window fuse? I've been looking through all of them