Changing Fuel Filter- How much fuel should drain out?

I needed to change rusted out fuel lines that run from the fuel filter output to the Pulse Damper on the fuel rail. I wanted to install a new fuel filter. I disconnected the battery negative, fuel pump relay and loosened the fuel cap. I loosened up the fuel line on the input side (coming from the tank) and about 3 quarts of fuel came out with no end it sight. I expected to see only about a quart come out. I reconnected the fitting to the filter to stop the draining for now.
Unfortunately, I realized I had a leaking fuel line just after I filled up the tank so it's as full as can be.

How much fuel should drain before it stops?

 

@bmf4069 did his fuel filter replacement and reports the same problem you’ve experienced with massive amounts of fuel pourings.

Not sure what to tell you other than let her drain until it stops. Or run the tank dry by driving and then let her drain till dry.

 

I can't run the engine. The fuel line going to the damper fitting was spewing a lot of gas. Of course this happened soon after I filled up the tank. I already have that fuel line removed. What is left is the fuel line going from the filter's output side to the fuel line that I already removed. These two lines connect by the wheel well between the battery and firewall. I am replacing both fuel lines because they are both severely rusted and the filter since everything is going to be apart. I don't know how old the filter is. It could be original. The Tundra has 213K miles. I bought it this past December.
There must be a siphoning action going on because the fuel line coming from the tank can't be holding more than a pint or two of fuel.

 

Maybe try putting your gas cap back on and see if it stops.

I remember mine kept pouring out and kept messing with the gas cap till it stopped. Can't remember what the solution was (on or off).

 

That damn thing. I HATE that fuel filter. NOTHING you do will stop the fuel from leaking. Flip the damn truck over to change it or take it to someone.

 

Who the hell puts hard lines going into a filter anyways? I hope that engineer enjoys his spot in the deepest darkest recesses of hell.

 

Fuck that filter.

 

I never realized how hard a swap it was until you mentioned it and then I started researching it. I’ve paid a shop to do it twice in the past for like $50 each time. Sounds like a deal, but they were doing other work on the truck as well.

Someone here was saying there is no need to change our filters, but I think its a good idea.

 

I had troubles my first time replacing fuel filter and did it a second time and learned a lot. Now it feels like an easeful sequence of steps with guaranteed success. Here is a link to my build thread with pictures and detailed steps and tips: https://www.tundras.com/threads/the-6-million-dollar-tundra-revival-story.84992/#post-2170731

 

Pics of gnar gnar filter with approx 30k miles. Brand unknown. Frame bracket is the original Toyota.

Check out the Gelatin Finger which evidently was resting internally on the bottom of the housing on the inlet side. Look at the Brown Gas Fluid which squeezed out with a push of the screw driver on the paper roll.

 

You guys are just talking about the filter in the frame rail right? 2 14s and a 19 to hold the filter. Hmm must have been lucky. Mine changed easily and only drained fuel for probably 30 seconds. I also agree that it is definitely a good idea to change. There are a few clip like things that hold the fuel line into and out from the filter in place that if you pop off it is easier to maneuver the filter out and in.

 

I changed mine out. Don't recall losing that much gas. I unscrewed the fittings from the old one and screwed it into the new one. I didn't wait around to see how much gas would leak out. A finger over the hole until it mated with the new filter was enough to keep from exsanguinating my fuel tank. There is zero reason not to change the fuel filter. That's like saying you shouldn't change your transmission fluid just because you have a "sealed" transmission.

 

Are OEM filters the way to go or do most people use aftermarket filters like wix or purolator good enough

 

I used an aftermarket filter that I got from Napa. Which is likely a Wix.

 

I also got a wix

 

Same thing. Had no problem changing it in about five minutes. Not sure if it made a difference or not but my truck sat over night before I did it. Only half a quart of so of fuel came out and that was it.

 

I think the Wix Premium might be the way to go because I’ve never seen a reviewer here or elsewhere say they had any problems with the threading leaking. My old one looked like it *might* be a Wix due to shape of body.

Reason I went Toy OEM this time was for the new frame bracket and shiny little Toyota Sticker reflecting back at me. I did read some reviewers bitching a little about leaks, but caulked it up to DIY Manglers who like to complain a lot.

I found out they were right, but still came out with a Win with the Gas Teflon Tape.

The Ear Plug Method for the Win! Great idea.

 

Odd these would leak. It should be sealing at the flare fitting, not the threads.

 

Yeah. Odd is correct, but Pipe Thread Sealed the Deal.

 

I would be leery of this. Using teflon tape on flare fittings is not recommended. But hey, if it works, it works.

 

Yeah. Made for Gas Teflon Tape so no worries there. The Flare is possible leaking at the threading where it mates to the Filter. Needed just a little change in Mojo with the Tape blocking the thread path. No worries here as it has been holding fine for a few weeks, but I’ll report back if it does!

Another theory is that these Aftermarket Filters change the Flare Line Mojo ever so slightly (widening) and when returning back to OEM the Flare is off ever so slightly. Always had shops do my work and you know they NEVER use OEM parts unless its Stealership.

I feel good about it.

 

Correct.

Leak (in my case) was very slight weep coming from threads on one side only. Success on the other side without tape (but removed and taped both sides anyways). I could have cranked on the unit, but being highly trained in Sensory Hand Mojo I know where the Mangle Limit is before getting there.

Other option was stop and run around to autozoned (with gas leaking) for a Wix or NAPA or try the Gas Tape for the win. These Flare Nuts are slippery slopes once you go a certain route with them. KISS.

 

@KNABORES I agree with your diagram of the seal of the flare, that is my recollection from many plumbing projects. I used a little teflon tape on the threads thinking it would act as a lubricant for the threads and make tightening a little more smooth. Also to show God that I really tried and deserve to have no more leaks.

 

If it works, it works. Like my engine ground cable that I scabbed together on the side of the road with the idea of replacing it with the appropriate one when I got home. Took me 2 years to replace it, cause my fix worked. Wasn't pretty, wouldn't recommend it, but it worked. Hell I've got scotch locks and wire nuts in my truck wiring, who am I to throw a stone.

 

Was reading these posts starting to worry why when I changed mine last month very little fuel came out maybe 30 seconds or so and then swapped filter out easy as pie.

 

Mine leaked when I first swapped it and I used a Wix filter. I gave the nut one more umph and it stopped. I snugged and then a little more but apparently it needed to be pretty damn tight.