Pound Puppy rescue rebuild

Lowe’s Canada sells these plugs. Not sure about size though.

 

I’ll check tomorrow, that’s a good looking idea.

 

I'm glad it arrived safely. Is the McMaster Carr Canadian embargo still in effect?

These may clean it up enough to look a little better.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-89348...ndra-2007-2013/222447867087?fits=Model:Tundra

 

I don't even have it as an option so I'm just in the plug the holes mode.

I did troubleshoot the O2 sensor, seemed to be giving
me an over voltage on the newly replaced unit. I cleared the code, and cleaned up the plugs. Tested them and ran it for a bit.
On the OBD reader the voltages were quite different initially but after it warmed up and the idle came down. The V draws all
stabilized and were consistent from one side to the other, so seems to be okay.

 

What size is the hole?

A trade size 1/2" electrical conduit hole measures 7/8". Metal "knock out seals" for them are readily available at hardware stores, but will rust instantly. You might be able to find plastic versions though.

ARLINGTON ArlingtonNM900 1/2 PLS Knock Out Seal100

https://www.amazon.com/ARLINGTON-ArlingtonNM900-PLS-KNOCK-SEAL/dp/B01DWB9V0I

The plumbing version posted above to plugs holes in stainless sinks I think would be too big. I think those are like 1" or 1-1/8". And probably rust too.

 

I hadn't thought of plumbing. I'll go local auto parts Lordco and see what they have for rubber grommets. It's an odd
hole, I don't think perfectly round.

 

So I'm back a year later, Tundra is running really well. Average 18 mpg. I've hit 120 mph a couple of times,
it's a rocket. But the heater assembly needs to come out for replacement. Blender doors are buggered, can't
get the thing to cycle from heat or AC. picked up a used unit from a destroyed 2008 with only 56000 km on it
for $200 all servos included, wiring looks good so just got to figure out how to get to it. I've been on You tube, but
not much luck with a full dash teardown.
Anyone got a link to 2007 SR5 heater replacement and dash removal? All the videos seem to be console shifter trucks.
But I can't find any that go through the full thing.

 

Okay pics to follow but I can't be sure how to pull this dash out. I've isolated the airbag and as best as I can tell removed
all the holding bolts and screws. This one clip is right up at the front below the windshield, is this designed to just be pulled
backwards and unclip??

 

tagged and anywhere a bolt or screw needs to go back I taped an indicator so I don't forget. PO was in there, bolts were loose.
All kinds of dirt, filthiest truck I've ever been in. It's like they never closed the windows at construction sites.
I'm stuck now, have to figure out how to remove the upper dash pad. I'll unbolt the steel cross bar then, and lower the steering
column. I have figured out how I can add spacers and lower the wheel in it's lowest position when done, no one drives with the
wheel way up, but being lower will be nicer.

 

This is a plug lock on the back side of fuse box. I need to unplug the white plug but it has this yellow plug lock. Anyone can help me I can’t see it and the only pic I can take is blurry.

Its under tension from the dash. So I can’t unbolt them fuse box. It’s the last wire to dash removal.

 

Okay, the dash comes out easy once the side A pillar covers are removed. I forgot that they hold the dash in place on the ends.
Once they were out, the dash slid back easy. So two wire bundles are causing hours of grief. Passenger side, it runs from the plug
grouping on the floor without any plugs, kinda wierd since everything is so plug and play. Anyhow, got them disconnected from there
place and now trying to figure out the last lock plug on the back of the fuse box.

 

Well that ended abruptly. I guess by that time I just wanted to get it done. The new heater worked immediately. So I have all functions. I replaced the front windshield. Now my truck didn’t list having the heater under the wiper blades but we ordered the window with the heater elements and sure enough we plugged it in and it works!! Also the heated mirrors work so finally I was all ready for winter.

 

Update now. This truck has a new place in my heart. I purchased an inflatable jet boat and to pick it up it was just over 1000 miles up north in the Northern Territory. So my buddy jumped in my truck and off we went. 2000 miles in two days. Iron Butt Award winners. I documented the mileage. Average was 19.5 mpg. Average speed 65 mph.
Vancouver to Ft Nelson and back. Up the Alaska Highway. It was epic.

 

Two days later we headed into the Washington and up past Tacoma to pick up a Mercury Verado 175. So in 4 days driving we managed over 4100 kms. The truck is so solid. Handles everything and better than a lot of cars I’ve driven.
I’ve been on the fence about this truck but not any more. It’s officially a keeper.
Winter is coming so I created a weight rack 2WD trucks really suck in winter especially with no weight. So this is 1x2 thick wall and I’ll lay some 2’x2’ concrete pads in here when the snow flies. I’ve got a hunk of conveyor to cover them up with so this will solve the wheel spin issues I hope.

 

So I’m having trouble finding old information.

Can someone link me to this lowering kit and airbag kits I saw earlier this year? I really need to bring the back end down to level and be able to actually get into the back.
If I remember the lowering kits were only a couple hundred bucks.

 

Finally! I've been looking for a good picture of a long bed frame.... now I know where to shorten it.

 

Any truck bed less than 6'6" isn't a truck. IMHO, LOL!

 

Need help. I ordered the lowering kit and airbags. They arrived here in BC today. I forgot to order the short shocks.
Does anyone know the Bilstein shock number I can order these at home here in Canada? It would cost me too much to
order and UPS them up here. Couriers are charging crazy brokerage fees, and the dollar exchange is a bit rough.

BILSTEIN SHORT REAR SHOCK fits 2007+ LOWERED TUNDRA | SOS Performance, Tundra Tacoma, Stoptech Big Brake Kit Rear Disc

 

Took a year, but today I spent 8 hrs and installed the SOS Lowering Kit and the SOS Airbag Kit. I ordered the Bilstein shocks locally. Tear down was pretty straightforward

 

You can see the corrosion on the hub from the wheels. Stupid. Took a 4’ wrecking bar and a 10 lb sledgehammer to knock both wheels off. Good news, only 1 spring pin was slightly corroded so the bolts and shackles and pins all came out easy.

 

BTW. Pull the rear shackles first. Leave the front in until you have released the rear spring from the
Swinging shackle. It will be easier to deal with controlling falling axles and stuff.

 

I’m just gonna load a bunch of pics as I chat. I try to take pics of both sides, same but as usual different every time. Taking old bolts and nuts apart takes power, make sure you keep the hammer of your air tools oiled up. Not much, but if you’ve not had a air tool blow up in your hand you’re missing something! I enclose the photo of the exhaust I cut a nice straight cut through the bottom 1” of the hangar bracket and released the rest of the tail pipe. I then used the piece again cut in half and used it all to make a new tailpipe. Don’t go all crazy for new exhaust The interference comes from where the spring cuts through the path of the exhaust pipe to behind the mud flap. If you don’t need to don’t go buying a whole new exhaust for the sake of 2 cuts and a couple hundred spot welds. I’m stripping down an old BJ74 so ran out of jack stands. Blocks of wood work BUT make sure you support the pinion end of the diff. I have 2 floor jacks so one was used just to support the nose of the diff as I moved it all around. Bit awkward but not as awkward as having to replace a universal joint

 

Mock up time. Loaded the front end of the springs on both sides. They are bolted in and ready except for torque. Since I’m doing the both lowering kit and airbags. BTW, I forgot to get pics. Use a vice and compress the spring packs and replace Center pins with the pins provided, the screw head has to be reversed with the nut to the bottom of the pack and washer with bolt head to top of spring pack. This allows enough head to capture both the airbag bottom guide plate and the axle perch assembly. It’s a very simple procedure and as usual center pins are never an issue to unbolt. DO NOT START ADDING
U-BOLTS yet. Mock up allows sliding the airbag plate back and forth since it needs to be bolts on the bottom in its forever position. Orientation of the airbag is a bit weird until ya get it. But at this point the front end of springs are attached, the axles placement hardware is in position and the rear shackles are bolted in but only to the nylon guides, no further. Don’t tighten anything yet.

 

Here is the guide plate sliding under the axle perch. SOS does an amazing job labelling. It was a no brainer positioning each piece. Kudos. I highly recommend this kit. If everything they build is this easy, they have nailed it.

 

Let me add at this point. This whole thread is for the DIYer. If you just buy and pay someone to do this then this is a whole lot of time you don’t need to spend. If you’ve ever hung suspension on leaf spring vehicles you know that it’s a sequential thing. Try to get everything in place but only tighten things that need to be tightened in order to maintain their position in this puzzle. Axles are weird amid as solid as they seem it’s amazing that even I have that “how the hell is this gonna fit?” Thing in my head. Just be patient and run back and forth pushing and adjusting. Having the axle attached at the yoke is easy but it also makes axle position weird as it holds the middle. You might have to pull or push the springs side to side or forwards or backwards to make it fit but essentially get everything in place before you proceed.

 

Airbags loosely attached and the air line hole aligned roughly with the upper bracket. I was able to lift slightly on the back of the spring packs together here and pull the airbag up to attach the two bolts for the airbag to the upper bracket. Don’t worry about twisting those bags around. They are designed for the bottom of a truck, they are tough.
NOTE: small cap screw supplied here. Notice the rear brake line and ABS sensor wire. They need to be relocated for airbag clearance. I reversed the P clip that holds the brake line and just pushed the ABS plug out and put it inside the bracket as opposed to outside. Early pics will show original position. This is a 10 min job. But provides necessary clearance of airbag to lines so no rubbing